The 12mm Freelander wheel studs are a safety upgrade. There is a cost of 16 studs and nuts but the install is simple.  Has anyone tried a rear bar on a Rotoflex rear suspension? I have been refurbishing a Mk2 suspension for my Mk1 and also have a rear anti-roll bar. Has anyone used a rear bar on any car and found it effective? I have a 26mm bar on my Volvo Amazon wagon and A 7/8" on the GT6 just my unscientific preference. Many modern cars have a rear anti-sway bar

How can you live without a Lathe even a cheap Chink one like I bought for a smaller size my big one is better than the Myford one I had and sold for about the same money as the Chink one which I think is far better!! Then there is the milling machine (even a cheap chink one?)  Plus digital read out on both?(Which I did !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!) Still its nice when you use it  but in my case not so often now! Still only money and the buzz of doing yourself is worth it ??? Roger the old Fart(that's the drink!!)

As replied on CT, I don't have a lathe (yet). I would prefer to keep the nuts "capped" to maintain the original look if possible. However, I don't think the correct nuts have been modified (though that may be an option, although a tad tricky doable with a pillar drill) so I figured they must be available somewhere! Just a case of figuring out where.

Yes, I think you have a lathe? Shorten the end of the nut to make it open ended, and of neat appearance.  Job done. John

Oh…. Good news/bad news then…. 

Due to the closed nuts bottoming? Long studs only about 5mm longer by the looks?

Well, miracles happen! Parcel arrived, and driver not lynched (which is possibly the bigger miracle lol). However, not the right parts, but that's not the fault of DPD 🤣

Well, still have the same issue with wheel nuts not being long enough. That's the new studs from Mark on both. The RH nut is one of my originals, the LH is a new stud from Paddocks. I need the longer studs for the alloys, yet I cannot find anything online about people not being able to fit steel wheels with longer studs. Surely I'm not the only person who has (or had) this issue?

A dishwasher, that's really heartening to hear Brad 😉 I'm not sure how many of us will be coming but it's our intention to take you and Nicole out to lunch this time. We arrive in Saint Malo on Thursday 7th May. We are staying two nights in Saint Nazaire and the hotel I have in mind is  The Originals Boutique Hotel Aquilon, Saint-Nazaire It's reasonably priced and has garage and open air parking. They are not accepting bookings yet for next year so I haven't been able to proceed.    

So, some progress made since the last update. 11/16" anti-roll bar painted, new polybushes and mounting kit installed along with the John Wolfe links. I also have awaiting cleaning/painting a 7/8" bar and mounting kit, however I decided to stick with what she came with so as to capture a "baseline" so to speak, once I've come to grips with better links and bushes I can try changing for the 7/8" and see what works best. I'm also a touch concerned about what other knock on effects the smaller arb might have, Dave at Canleys mentioned that it is not unusual to fit heavier springs with the thicker bar to "compensate", so I want to think/talk that through before changing as well. Any input from sideways gratefully received on that front! I have also now purchased a set of Mark Fields (ex-Jigsaw fame) uprated wheel studs, still 3/8 thread but longer and a stronger metal as I understand. Should improve on the original without being a complete alteration. Same time I also fitted the new trackrod ends and cleaned/regressed the bearings. Can't get any further than what is pictured (or start on the rear just now) until the new wheel nuts arrive, supposedly today (see courier thread for that saga). Phil