Nick When the outside temperature is above 80 Fahrenheit the temperature creeps up to the  200-210 range while driving for extended times slow (or fast). This is after upgrading to the 3-row GT6 radiator and additional oil cooler, was much worse before. Unfortunately fellow Spitfire owners in my local car club have all moved on, so I no-longer have anyone to compare with on long planned drives with the club.  In the states we have a water pump re-build Guru called the Flying Dutchman that is still active, he can rebuild the pump and upgrade my impeller to a 5-blade version if I want to pay the price. I just recently watched a Jay leno's Garage you-tube post on his own personal 57 Cadillac were he gave the Flying Dutchman a shout out for the good work he did on that cars water pump. I just revisited my existing water pump installed before the GT6 radiator upgrade and found that it's impeller is smaller than the original pump I still have on the shelf. I don't recall if anything was wrong with the original pump, I believe I just swapped it out as another attempt at the resolving the problem.  So looks like I will be re-installing the original to see what happens. I also see a couple more responses to my problem on adding back the radiator shrouds! I do plan to do that in the future but still ruling that out as not the root problem since I did have them originally before upgrading radiators.  I did some googling to find images of folks that have added custom shrouds on a GT6, and found a post for a TR6 that closely matches what I would like to-do. Small world appears he is a member of Sideways, so would like to give him a shoutout on all the documentation he did on the build. https://bullfire.net/TR6/TR6-87/TR6-87.html

+1 for using shrouds and cowling. When driving: the forced air flow will take the path of least resistance = around the radiator core, not through it When stationary: the fan will do the work and the air will recirculate.  Hot air off the back of the rad will be pulled round the sides and back to the front of the radiator to go round again and get even hotter    Both easily validated with a couple of thermocouples positioned on radiator core  

Neighbours were away daahn sarf in their Audi A3. Got back very late/very early this morning. The car threw its toys out of the pram on the M6 south of Carlisle. Once recovered off the hard shoulder to a lorry park the AA man diagnosed an injector module fault. Common problem says he, so common that he carried a genuine spare in his van. So £700 lighter (and some eight hours after the breakdown) they were back in Weegie. But says something the man had one in his toolbox. Aren't modern cars splendid

Indicators that light up but don’t actually flash (although the hazard lights work just fine)…… Ah yes, they all do that sir!   Under-spec’d relay sticks closed. It’s built into the hazard flasher switch along with the hazard relay. Someone being too clever again…… New genuine are not cheap. Used ones…. wilI’ll fail in the same way. Apparently there are “field repairs” that can be done……

I used 99.998%Ar 

Purging the inside is necessary for applications where you need a clean and corrosion resistant surface inside. EG food/drink related pipework.    For automotive exhaust, really not needed.  As mentioned previously, I have welds on the Vitesse exhaust made with steel wire (and maybe even plain CO2) that are now 15 - 20 years old with many miles of service. This includes the collector area, which gets very thoroughly cooked. It’s all holding up just fine.

Thanks Nick, I'm still alive and doing well 😎 And I still have all my Triumph cars 😀  hope to pull at least one out of hibernation later in the year ... Back to original thread : The original GT6 radiator cowl exists in cardboard (£ 45) and as an alloy reproduction.

If you are worried about rust on the weld you could always use some high temp paint (over 650 degrees C) over the welded section?

Even when I did a whole restoration on the gt6 and my mini before that, lots and lots of welding with the gas open fully, I'd prohably go through about 4 of the 600g hobby bottles, about 50 quid all in and I don't have to have a massive cylinder. But I agree it is better to have one you only refill every so many years

Thank you. The hobby bottles aren't the exact right ratio, I think you only want a very small percentage of co2, can't remember but searching it reveals all the anoraks on the mig forum going mental about it. In my head it's was picturing it coming out like a perfect tig welded finish i think with the stainless wire and semi decent gas it should hould up to the rust for a while. Fingers crossed!