+1 for using shrouds and cowling. When driving: the forced air flow will take the path of least resistance = around the radiator core, not through it When stationary: the fan will do the work and the air will recirculate.  Hot air off the back of the rad will be pulled round the sides and back to the front of the radiator to go round again and get even hotter    Both easily validated with a couple of thermocouples positioned on radiator core  

Neighbours were away daahn sarf in their Audi A3. Got back very late/very early this morning. The car threw its toys out of the pram on the M6 south of Carlisle. Once recovered off the hard shoulder to a lorry park the AA man diagnosed an injector module fault. Common problem says he, so common that he carried a genuine spare in his van. So £700 lighter (and some eight hours after the breakdown) they were back in Weegie. But says something the man had one in his toolbox. Aren't modern cars splendid

Indicators that light up but don’t actually flash (although the hazard lights work just fine)…… Ah yes, they all do that sir!   Under-spec’d relay sticks closed. It’s built into the hazard flasher switch along with the hazard relay. Someone being too clever again…… New genuine are not cheap. Used ones…. wilI’ll fail in the same way. Apparently there are “field repairs” that can be done……

I used 99.998%Ar 

Purging the inside is necessary for applications where you need a clean and corrosion resistant surface inside. EG food/drink related pipework.    For automotive exhaust, really not needed.  As mentioned previously, I have welds on the Vitesse exhaust made with steel wire (and maybe even plain CO2) that are now 15 - 20 years old with many miles of service. This includes the collector area, which gets very thoroughly cooked. It’s all holding up just fine.

Thanks Nick, I'm still alive and doing well 😎 And I still have all my Triumph cars 😀  hope to pull at least one out of hibernation later in the year ... Back to original thread : The original GT6 radiator cowl exists in cardboard (£ 45) and as an alloy reproduction.

If you are worried about rust on the weld you could always use some high temp paint (over 650 degrees C) over the welded section?

Even when I did a whole restoration on the gt6 and my mini before that, lots and lots of welding with the gas open fully, I'd prohably go through about 4 of the 600g hobby bottles, about 50 quid all in and I don't have to have a massive cylinder. But I agree it is better to have one you only refill every so many years

Thank you. The hobby bottles aren't the exact right ratio, I think you only want a very small percentage of co2, can't remember but searching it reveals all the anoraks on the mig forum going mental about it. In my head it's was picturing it coming out like a perfect tig welded finish i think with the stainless wire and semi decent gas it should hould up to the rust for a while. Fingers crossed!

Thanks Nick, yes I think I'm going to have to, I didn't like the idea of trying to cut those very thick chassis flanges lying under the car with the grinder a few inches from my face I'll see where it's close and do some shaping with the hammer