Standard spit suspension doesn't travel that far. It's 2" lower than the previous wheelbarrow, plenty of clearance. Problem with a side pipe ( I considered it for a long time ), your gonna need to notch the front outride with that or you should need to go over the chassis rails, which at a 2" pipe would take you lower than this. I couldn't see any other path.

Ah…. High torque starter….. which brand?    The best ones are proper OE. Nippon Denso ones which seem to be almost invincible. Some of the (very pricey) aftermarket ones typically sold as “upgrades” for Lucas inertia ones are rather less excellent and short- lived.    Vitesse has a repurposed Toyota ND unit plucked from a scrapyard in 2004 and adapted with a Canleys kit. It’s been excellent. Only a slight wobble in Italy on the 2017 when it temporarily forgot its purpose and needed some percussive maintenance to remind it. That turned out to the copper contacts in the solenoid being almost entirely worn away. These were easily remade from a bit of bus-bar but they are also easy to buy. Suggest checking these first. You might also want to check whether the main power wire goes direct or via the original solenoid on the bulkhead. The later giving additional opportunities for volt drop and failure.

I actually rather like the standard pattern stainless GT6 exhaust on a Spit. A Mk3 GT6 back box on the 1500 with no middle box sounds sporty enough, but no bleeding ears and looks purposeful. Probably ok on a GT6 too but I’ve yet to try the stainless version. My GT6 does also have the middle box. Vitesse has 3 boxes (tight fit!). The noise check man at CC approves of it. Not only is it well within the limit but it ”sounds lovely”.  Clearly a connoisseur - with excellent taste.  

Hi Roger, They would have been cheaper, however I already popped down to Halfords earlier and picked up a new 063. Not the complete bog standard Lead Acid (the 3 year warranty option) but rather the Calcium 4 year version. Difference of £3 between them, figured the extra ampage and CCA would not be amiss given the engine is "tuned" with a high torque starter. However after installation I found it still didn't work. A couple of judicious taps on the starter produced life, but still a bit sluggish to my mind. So maybe that was the root cause. Battery needed replacing anyway, so no loss in the long run. Next job, pull a starter out and see if it is "overhaulable" I guess.

Opportune posting chaps! My wheelbarrow is a tad noisy, and I have been thinking about possible solutions. Most likely I'll replace the two silencers with "better" versions, and then consider if I need something along the chassis rails as well. It would be nice to tame the drone at 70mph lol

Hello Phil                   I have used these people several times and they have lots of choice usually! Online Battery Solutions for Modern Living | BMS Technologies Roger

You must have stiff springs on the back for that not to ground though ?

The washers might be for use with wheel-nuts or bolts to adapt the domed ends to the flat plate.

Just use the right sized round tube or baseball bat   

At my last race, I found that a rear wheel arch was rubbing slightly on the tyre.   I also found that the damper on that side was shot, which may explain why it hasn't happened before.    The damper(s) will be replaced but it seemed the right time to get a Wheel Arch Roller, to fold back the flange on the arch's edge.        Not cheap, but a little research found a Chinese version, the Fender Repair Tool, at about £25.   For a single use, I hoped it would be adequate: Guaranteed to fit "most cars .... with 4 and 5 lugs."    But not Triumphs!    That unusually small PCD of the wheel studs does not fit, so I resorted to the die grinder to extend the slots inwards.   So I'm gaily turning, bending and heating as recommended in many YouTube videos. It wasn't easy getting started.  The "instructions" are, as so often with Chinese products, useless, with a whole page of "Safety Instructions" such as "Remove loose clothing, ties, rings watches, wear safety goggles (!) and DO NOT OPERATE WHEN INTOXICATED!".     The best instruction was the picture on the front of the leaflet, exactly the same as above but in monochrome, but I got there. But I'm still mystified.   In the box are four thick washers, flat on one side, dished on the other, like a 'misalignment washer'.     They were threaded on the tommy bar, as in the picture above, loosely as the centre hole is twice as big as the bar.  Can anyone suggest what they are for? And another question, that I've found before and was reminded of while extending the mount slots.    When using the die grinder, there are certain positions in which the machine comes alive in my hands.  It becomes difficult to control, and oscillates to and fro, instead of working at the designated spot.   It's not the metal or the shape of that, as if you change the way you grip the grinder, the effect disappears.     Anyone found this, and has an explanation?     John