Hmmmm have to say, after having a seriously close incident to squashed head with a 15 yr old Halfords trolly jack, I don't skimp on them nor keep them for long. Yes axle stands etc but my incident was when positioning said support. The cylinder popped on the jack and I was a bawhair away from loosing more than my hair. I really want a jack rod, but I'm not paying their price for one...

That is what I saw, yet Ford have used one 2 1/2x the engine capacity! I bet they did some research, but they also used variable inlets too, and other clever stuff.  I think using a "shotgun" setup will work pretty well, the tube with the throttle body tapering,  and a slot 15mm wide between the two tubes so air gets evenly distributed between the cylinders. I shall pilfer the "Jones minor" technique for creating the taper. (slit the tube, then jubilee clips to squeze one end to a smaller diameter)

Thanks John, but I'm a step ahead! No foreign objects are getting into this engine!  Sadly I don't have the luxury of a load leveler, it's been on the to buy list for many years now, next time I'll get one.  Once the gt6 is done I have my mini and recently purchased mk3 spitfire project to keep me occupied, so a load leveler will definitely come in handy. She's out and on the floor as we speak, I'm trying to do it without opening the garage door and letting all the heat out I aim it'll be in in the next hour or so, everything on the car is all built, the bonnet is in the house so should be a breeze!

Jacob, If I may?  Before you install the engine, without its head, cover the bores.    A sheet of cardboard with masking tape around the edges is quite sufficient to stop dirt, metal parts or spills getting onto the block face or into the bores while you lift it in or do other work. If you have a bare chassis, no problem doing it late, but I recommend joining the engine and gearbox before if the body is in place.    In which case a "Load Leveller" to tilt the whole  assembly. John

Vitesse pretty much identical. There is no great solution.

I think that will do! Im going to put the engine in! Dizzy gear ill do with the head on, far easier. Head has yet to go to the machine shop so wont be done for 3 weeks yet, so theres no real reason why the engine cant go in now. I'll give the bell housing a clean out and then get cracking. It's always nicer to build it up completely but space is very tight and I've been tripping over my engine stand for long enough! I can then bolt er up, fit the spin on housing and a few other little bits. Need to order a prv plunger which is why it's not fitted.

When I was researching airbox design, I came across a 'rule of thumb' that the volume of the airbox should be equal to or greater than the engine capacity. I have also seen designs which have a built in taper from front to rear, presumably in proportion to demand. Bit more difficult to fabricate! Ian

Thanks John, go there in the end!  Yes it's a bit of a pain, the vernier wheels would have been nice but not needed, I'd rather spend the time to get it right than throw more cash into this bottomless pit

Well done, Jacob, on trying with ELoO, and achieving it with two DTIs! Onwards and upwards! John  PS As said above, you can only get so near to a perfectly accurate cam timing, as the teeth each occupy just under 4 degrees.    You can't get it closer than that, without a Vernier pinion.     This is true of the Triumph Six, which is a pity as the Four has two sets of bolt holes, each pair slightly offset from the other, so that using the other set, and/or turning the gear wheel over you can get to less than one degree of error! J.

Maybe insufficient circumferential clearance not allowing the needles to roll, but then I would have thought there should be something obvious on the needles, but maybe not if they are significantly harder than the shaft?