Sounds like quite a lot of win at last!   Well deserved. Hard-earned for sure….  Looks smart in the pic  

All back together, 40 year old rear hose replaced, brakes bled and hand brake adjusted. Hand brake is now biting hard by 3 clicks, without lever extenders too, really impressed how well it works for a 70 year old car. While I was underneath, I was looking at how the body was put together, plotting adding a rear cross member to take telescopic shocks and a Panhard rod, to go with the axle upgrade of course... Took it for a test drive, now feels even more under geared, doesn't struggle pulling 30 in 4th (~2000rpm). Also manages 50 quite easily now, even on the slight "hills" we have around here. Still have quite a lot of valve train noise, so will have another go at adjusting the valve clearances. Handling wise, it is less wayward and considerably less scary, but not exactly settled at speed either. Brakes do work, test emergency stop proved it. Similarly, since cleaning the idle jet, carburettor seems to be playing ball and not cutting out after such manoeuvrers.  A new quirk to investigate, fuel gauge works but only when stationary... Also bought a fancy timing light, because my old one fell apart, seems like my by ear tuning gave the book figure of 10 deg, doesn't seem to ping so might try a few more degrees.

OK , thank you . I’ll give it a go . 

The question is, are the standard nuts tapered or radius? I admit I have some LR studs to fit, but never got round to it, and I intend to run steel wheels with them so would like to know the outcome. The original open 3/8 nuts definitely look radius/round to me, and not conical tapered. Assuming your M12 nut is already a radius type, it might be worth putting some engineer's blue on the seat or nut and seeing exactly what the contact pattern is? If it's engaging most of the seat and still allows the wheel to centre properly, I wouldn't worry that much. If not, I guess you need to look into enlarging the seat on the wheel.

As I understand it the wheel security to take the drive/rotational forces are the clamping force to the hub/drum. So as long as the wheel nuts sit in the taper and tightens on the wheel that should be ok.  you don’t want the taper so it goes through the wheel hole and bottoms out on the hub before tightening the wheel up.     

My windage tray works well.  on the Tr there is a long horizontal gauze filter oil pick up hence the long cut out.  I was able to screw the tray into castings inside the sump. I loctite’d the screws and riveted a tab over their heads so they can’t lift out.  but I wondered if a vertices wrap around baffle would add anything.    ractorations do a round oil pick up and a fully baffled tray https://www.racetorations.co.uk/product/track-day-competition-oil-pump-complete-kit-tr5-6/

You're not alone, zetec:  

I've always put them on youtube and shared a link 👍

Had a frustrating afternoon. Last job of the day was strimming a student house garden. Chucked teh cheapy Einhell strimmer in the car and off I went. When I got there I filled the tank with mixed petrol/2stroke oil, and started pressing the primer bulb. Odd, it didn't seem to be working. Faffed a bit and it did. Started 2nd pull, as I went to strap it around my neck, it died. I repeated the start process, and again it died. Eventually I got it to run, but only if the strimmer was tilted sideways slightly (this is important) Got about halfway through, it dies again. Will it restart? No chance. I faffed and fiddled, all to no avail. Only when I was knackered and frustrated did I speak to teh inhabitants and explain I would be back on Wednesday. Home, a cuppa and into the garage. I was fearing a carb rebuild would be in order, when I remembered the tilting thing. Emptied the tank and pilled teh fuel feed and retrn grommet out. The feed pipe had rotted and fallen apart. I extraccted the remains, and it seems the issue was where the pipe e]went through the grommet. So I cut a 3incg length of brake pipe and used that to join the pipe to the end/filter. Popped it back together, and off it went, good as gold. Which I reckon is a result. I will be ordering a new length of hose. It all looks rather cheap and nasty, certainly not labelled up as ethanol resistant or anything at all. But if it lasts another 4 years that'll be just dandy.  Downside, it will probably rain on wednesday.

On the return from Goodwood we made an unexpected stop off at Race Ltd . Lucky as there were numerous questions to be answered regarding plumbing both oil and water .  Four taps have been ordered for flow and return lines on each tank so Just one tank can be used at a time if desired .       Harry has decided that the easiest way to adjust the angle of the US exhaust is to cut off the 1/2” flange , slightly adjust the angle of the tube ends and then weld back on one of the laser cut flanges I left down there . I put forward the idea of bringing the engine builder over for startup/setup and all agreed it would make sense .