Escadrille Ecosse

Got the next coat of filler primer on and rubbed down and then needed a fourth (and final) coat. And the final rubbing down. Light all all over with the dry 320 grit on the long board to make sure it was all basically level. Then wet sanding with 400, 600, 800 and 1200 grit. A few very small areas where I've gone through the primer but we can cope with that. Now I'm half way through finishing off with the DA polisher. It's primer so I'll never get a perfect finish but good enough to take the mould (and hopefully release properly afterwards) and I can get the final polish to full shine in that. Then I can start on applying the would release and wax. Materials for making the mould all got delivered the other day. In those boxes by the bike. At last getting somewhere.

It's always slightly concerning when you find work colleagues need this sort of explanation

Gonna need dilithium crystals if you are trying to reach into the vortex John

From the size of them they look like a couple of well worn examples that Phil @thebrookster has had to swap out mid ocean

Yup from all I've seen Mr Stupps is no gringo when it comes to pedalling that car. Zetec, glad you got home in the end. On the plus side the pulley did at least have the decency to hang on till after the track. Sounds like a grand day out for everyone all in all. One day maybe but this is the minor elephant in the room (obviously the Spitfire still in bits doesn't help)

Ooh, that's an excellent view of the chase. Like I say the SoS duo ain't no slouch

Nice honest video there Pete. But all good clean fun

Somewhat 'challenging' fuel consumption for steady out of town stuff admittedly. Gulp! Handbrake on? Braking parachute deployed? Dead knight in full armour and his equally dead horse in the boot? Regardless, congratulations on an otherwise successful outing.

That was pretty impressive

Excellent John. The Vitesse/JohnD combination certainly doesn't give much away on the bends even if some of the others are faster (and significantly lighter) on the straights.

Man of Steel

Iain, basically the right length spring is the one that fits between the top and bottom spring seats at the correct loaded length to give you the ride height you want, the full range of travel in the shocks and preferably without coming loose with the suspension at full droop. Adjustable spring seats make this less critical than with fixed ones and you can do decent estimation if you have all the dimensions of the new shocks. if not then the easiest thing is to wait until you have the new shocks and work out from there. I suspect that if you are lowering the car and using stiff springs then you will probably want the 10.5" long springs

Nearly there with that. Looking made at the makers style. But I do hope you are going to clean up the diff casing before putting it in.

Hi John. Was going to suggest that one. It's the 'replacement' for the old Windows Movie Maker which MS dicontinued presumably because they couldn't monetise it. I still have an unsupported copy which is generally what I use for simple stuff. I believe there may be downloads available on the web still but caution indicated. VLC (the one with the cone) also does a reasonable job of basic editing. Nice video of Silverback. Less nice is the standard of driving of too many of the wannabees on there. Sadly as it transpired.

Probably not but not entirely necessary as you can also use Norton to share the passwords over multiple devices.

AVO and others do shocks in various lengths. The ones I have in the car now are - from memory - about an inch and a half shorter than standard with short springs to suit. Including 1.9" spring ID dampers may increase your options even more. You might be able to get something suitable Hamish.

Good. It needs a complete rinse. You need to set up linked accounts. Any of the common browsers, Firefox, Edge, etc will allow password access across devices. They will also auto-generate and save strong passwords for you so you can avoid duplicating any.

Blasphemy!!! But the important thing is that you had a great race.

Faulkner are very good. Highly recommended. 2 1/4" and 2 1/2" will fit but the 2 1/2" are a better match for the top retainer if you are sticking with that. And they are available in longer lengths which simplifies fitment. Or you can do this and fit 2 1/4"...

Always look on the bright side of life...

John. These are all linked and I strongly suggest that you do a fresh install before everything gets locked out. Look up reinstalling Windows from disc or USB stick. You can do this from another PC, laptop, etc. Doesn't have to be yours either. Windows will recognise that it is 'you' on the reinstallation. This will solve your problems but does mean that your data will probably be lost unless you have/take a backup of your files. This may not be possible or even desirable from the existing hard drive. However what you can do is disconnect the old hard drive and do the re-install on a new drive (easy to swap, instructions on line). THEN once you have the machine up an running you can re-connect the old drive as a secondary drive, buy a recovery tool like EaseUS data recovery to identify and recover your files from the old disc. If you don't feel confident trying this yourself then get someone to do it for you. But the important thing is to get is fixed before you lose everything.

Central heating been playing up randomly recently. The system has three 2-port valves - downstairs radiators/stat, upstairs radiators/stat and hot water cyclinder. Occasionally after the whole lot switches off at night the pump/boiler would keep operating. As the valves are all closed this makes everything very noisy and hot. Issue was with the tank valve which didn't seem to be making the off microswitch. Had this before, the switches are only rated for 3A which is a bit marginal. However with the fixed actuator valves a repair is a nightmare. But having over the piece replaced all the old valve with ones with removable heads I got some 5A microswitches from Farnell and took the head off today to replace what I thought was the burnt out one. Turned out the real issue was the bolts holding the drive motor had come loose which meant the actuator wasn't returning full travel to make the switch. Very strange. As I had the thing off though I changed the swich anyway as it's not difficult with everything on the desk.

Agree with @JohnD and @Mark 330lb are absolutely the lowest I would go with. I used 480lb on the 2.5L Spitfire and could really have gone a bit stiffer. My 1300 Spitfire runs 500lb springs. Even in a 600kg car these do not feel overly harsh on the road. As for ride height, I wouldn't run anything less than about 4" under the chassis. Speed bumps and bulkhead/wheelarch clearance issues start to arise. Using softer springs you probably need a bit more clearance.