Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Donations

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Andy

  • Rank
    Fast Driver!

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. And as you are lowering, check your spring doesn't bottom out on the inside of your inner wheelarches.
  2. Are they old or new pistons? If old did you clean out the ring grooves? I've had to file mine out before as they get gunked up (and somtimes closed up from head impacts!) andy
  3. Echo Harry's comments about check they don't scuff on their holes through the head. Also check the end pieces are tight in the tube. Loctite them in if they can be pulled out. otherwise raced with them for 13 years at 8000rpm though several rebuilds. no problems other than those. Andy
  4. Good you'll not have to cut the roof. For helmet use you could also remove the seat cushion if possible, for the few minutes of a hill climb you'll not get too uncomfortable. Also if you ever fit a full harness you can reduce your height by an inch or two when passing scrutineers with tight shoulder straps! I hop you get too hooked on motorsport as a new for of competition, that "needing ground clearance for the road" will be one of the first to go as you wind your suspension down
  5. Hi Chris Instead of changing your roofline have you thought about lowering the floor? it is a well practised method in racing Spits to lower the floor under the seat by 2 to 3" to get helmets below rollcages. All you need to do is glass in a shallow tray under the seat, assuming you have GRP floors. Also has the added benefits of doing fibreglass modifications without needing a respray and lowering the heaviest component in the car. Cheers Andy
  6. They'll last right up until the point they'll snap. As a veteran of multiple breakages of standard short, standard long, Standard new 'no nick', splined and Summers Bro shafts. Its not torque or power that does it. Smaller shafts on all sort of cars take more. ROTO/CV shafts are not much bigger. Its the swing axle design with a combination of hard springs/dampers and wide wheels/tyres/offsets and bumpy roads/racetrack kerbs all go towards trying to 'bend' the axle between the wheel and upright. after an amount of poundings a crack forms and grows until it snaps. The standard 'punchmark' is a handy stress raiser but even those without have snapped. If you have intentions to drive your car on the track at all then get rid of them and go rotoflex/CV jointed asap. Its better handiling, faster and will save you a re-chassis in the very near future. If you are keeping it as a road car where you can't really go fast anyhow, then get them crack tested, make sure your rear suss has some movement not slamming onto the bumpstops, and stay out of potholes. While you're driving think about what happens it you do lose a wheel and it goes under the car flicking the whole car into an airbourne spin (been there!) then change them anyhow. Andy (eternally grateful to Nick and Josh for developing CVjoint rears)
  7. I have protechs on my race spit. Have been on the front for 8+ years and work just fine as well as keeping their annodised shinyness, nice clicky action in the adjusters, and easy moving spring mount. I would still have them on the rear too but an axle snappage damaged the adjuster on one. Andy
  8. Moss Europe, no longer in the catalogue but if you search for TT3460 they still come up. http://www.moss-europe.co.uk Cheers Andy
  9. A few points from various posts: Steve Yeah is lamentable that the US has the greater amount of Spit racers. The big TRs are still popular, but the small chassis cars are in serious decline with probably only around 10 still racing, probably less, certainly not much more. Plus I think I’m going to drop out the ranks for a year in 2013 too as am finding it difficult to both race and maintain the Spit to the level needed so am having a fixing year. To be honest I’ve no interest in advancing the sport I just want fun weekends and to beat that pesky Frogeye that is just pipping me at the moment. Which I can do once I get up to the level of detail preparation he does, rather than just dragging my car out of the dusty barn a day before I run it! GT Slicks are not ‘safer’, as are control tyres not ‘safer’ either. A tyre is a tyre, and the grip it gives you is a factor of that tyre. Control tyres are an excellent leveller for a championship and those who complain about them are those who are unable to set up their car or develop their driving skill to suit them. It’s not the tyre that loses grip, it’s the person controlling the steering, accelerator and brakes. Spit131 Diffs. I think they’re fine for a nice light spit and have never had any problems with both my standard open diff and Quaife tbd. Though have seen my big power 6 clylinder GT6 counterparts changing diffs pretty often. They seem to think that having specific cooling arrangements and regular oil changing helps in their longevity though (but still have problems). CV conversion is ace and anybody who wants to take their small chassis Triumph on the track should do this (Nick and Josh should get a medal for the work they did here). It is about 20KG heavier than a swing spring but your back wheels will stay attached! I think using a Rover/MGF vertical ink is a good way to make this work as the bearings fit straight away and the rotoflex VLs are too tall for a low riding back end. I’ve not tried rear discs yet but perhaps my 2013 rebuild will do this. I am entirely unconvinced with any of the coil spring conversions being muted because with the coil spring off-centre to the rear of the VL it will inevitably twist the VL with every suspension movement. Jango’s is the exception here with the wide upper and lower wishbones constraining the twist. A single link upper will just not do the job. My spitfire drums used to overheat, the boiling fluid symptom I chased for a year at the front end with ducting/vented discs/twin pot calipers turned out to be the rear cast drums happily collecting heat. A pair of alloy finned drums fixed this. Cheers Andy
  10. I use good old castrol EP80/90. Seems fine even after ingesting a couple of it own crownwheel bolts! Andy
  11. Shame on you John for such a deliberate and wide of the mark mis-quote. Sentence yourself to a week of self flagellation on the naughty step. In the meantime I suggest we all take GT's advice and not quote "aftermarket manufacturer's" advice, either Yankee, taff or otherwise Andy
  12. UK spitty racers don't run bigger brakes either and with our stumpy little European circuits like Spa and the nordschliffe , the hairpins can be pretty close together I run a rallydesign willows dynalite kit on capri vented discs. It's very good and I've not had any problems in the 8 years fitted. though lighter and better cooled than standard brakes they are no bigger. I fitted those brakes to try and cure a fluid boiling problem only to find the rear drums were what was doing the boiling . A pair of fined drums sorted it in the end. Andy
  13. I never bother with the drill on the oil pump thing, the engine will turn it a lot faster when its running than either a scewdriver in the pump or the starter motor. Turn the key and get the job done!. However for a rebuilt engine I would have also coated the cam in nice thick gloopy 'cam lube', put a smear of the same on all the bearings and filled the oil pump with it (50/50 oil/stp mix does the job nicely). Do your nut and bolt checks before you start it, then start and run, don't stop. These first few minutes are key into getting all the metal surfaces bedded in together. By stopping before its nicely warmed up you are washing away all the assembly lube and not giving the new oil a chance to impregnate all the new nicely machined surfaces. Dont let it tick over at low speed either, give it some revs upto 2000/2500 to get some momentum into the system. The cam has to work harder as if it has to lift the valves slowly. Cheers Andy (Rebuilt engine(s) every year for racing, still on my original cams, followers and conrods)
  • Create New...