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Lincspeed

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  1. Don't know why the image posted twice… BTW - I would never drive this thing on the road - way too harsh with 650# front and 600# rear springs and a straight cut gear box.
  2. Getting closer to sorting this bastard out… new Canely (sp) front truniionless uprights and adjustable camber upper a arms has helped to get the setup correct for the cantilevered bias race tires I run (20X8X13) which require zero camber. Sprung for a new set this weekend and knocked 2 seconds off my lap times (1.5 mile track). So things are improving. Still need to sort the rear suspension out - too much bottoming out and loss of grip at the wrong time...
  3. I recently purchased a set of older Revolution wheels to use for my rain tires. They have been media blasted and I will be painting them, but the problem is getting them bolted on the car. They have the old style shouldered nuts with the flat washer that seats against the wheel and the nut extension reaches into the hub area of the wheel. The fit is so tight that it is nearly impossible to get them all "in their holes" with the dam washers in place. Can I slightly enlarge the holes in the wheels, or machine the diameter of the nut shafts down a touch? Or is there some trick to getting these bastards together? On another set of these old style wheels I have, we can put the nuts on partially (I have long 4" wheel studs) and then wiggle the wheel out onto the nuts and tighten them down carefully - but these new set of Revolutions, this doesn't work... Any help - please! Clark
  4. Bob Rickner Jr. is the guy who distributes Canley in the US. He does not have a web site but can be contacted at : rfrflyer@hotmail.com and (US) 802-310-2172 Bob's your uncle when you need good bits for your Spit/GT6 and Lotus Elite (2nd gen). Very nice gentleman to deal with. Clark
  5. The lessons learned from this investigation are these: 1- standard vertical links are all drilled out to facilitate lubing the trunion and this weakens them. 2- racing (particularly GT6s) will eventually break these at the top of the threads for the trunion. 3- racing a GT6 on 8" wide slicks will really load them ! 4- undrilled v links are available (Canley) and are much stronger but the trunion must be manually greased. 5- trunion free v link assemblies (Canley) solve the breaking problems, but will require some maintenance to keep the rose joint at the bottom clean. 6- I have found a US distributor for Canley parts, and other great Triumph bespoke parts, and am buying a trunion free set of v links plus some steel axles and other front end special bits. Thanks for everyone's input. I will feel a bit more confident pushing hard into corners this season Clark
  6. Thanks guys - I have found a source for these units in the US and he has been using them on several different racing applications for a number of years with no failures. I don't want to have a failure like my fellow GT6 racer at Road America last fall - it was a mess.
  7. sorry about all the ebay crap - I thought I was just posting the image… how can I edit my post?
  8. Anyone tried these - or have any experience with them? (Copied off ebay) http://www.motorgeek.com/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=9648&start=275 Edit by Nick some pics here without the ebay crap (the rest of that thread is also a cracking read btw - fine example of driveway engineering but serious thread drift)
  9. Steve - part of the challenge of doing this was that the right front wheel house has to be narrowed about 2". It was no problem on my fiberglass hood with composite wheel houses, but the steel originals would pose a challenge (to me). This box was pretty simple to make - cardboard mockup and pattern and a sheet of .030 aluminum some rivets and bob's your uncle…
  10. So this winter (most snow and consistent below freezing weather in over 20 years) I have reworked the rear suspension inboard upper pickup points so I can lower the car another inch. Also, as you can see in the photos, built an air box to feed the Kastner developed velocity stacks (supposed to be good for 6HP), and changed the oil cooler and relocated it up front. Also attached is a shot of theUS magazine that I made the cover of! Taken at Road America at the Kastner Cup Vintage Event last September. Cheers, Clark
  11. You are right John - "dropped spindle" is a term I remember hearing and thought it might apply. BUT, having said that, what I am looking for is a front front upright that has RAISED the spindle (relative to stock OEM parts) so the chassis will sit lower while maintaining the suspension geometry closer to design. I have lowered my car considerably and the front suspension arms are sitting close to full bump angles which is not in the optimum performance range. What most seriously lowered race Spits do is the front suspension inboard pickups are raised on the chassis - which I am trying to avoid, by lowering the spindle…!
  12. Has there ever been any of these made (for lowering the front ride height) Thanks, Clark
  13. Not being an engine builder, but what is a speedy seal and how do they work? Clark if it ain't broke, modify it.
  14. Jeez guys, we fitted an anular throw out on my TR 6 box and just had to drill a couple of holes in the bell housing for the hydraulics. So far (two seasons) so good... Knock wood!
  15. If I do this I will give a full report w/photos. Only thing I don't like is that it lowers the roll center the same amount (according to the suspension geometry program we used to design the new rear set up) RC would still be above ground (2.2") which is still way better than with the original leaf spring design (3-4" below ground). Clark
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