I'm not sure about that. It's a cardinal rule on private sites that you never go snooping at the PM's. (On "private sites" at least.) If you ever do it and get caught, it can destroy the site's credibility. So I'm not sure he's looked or is aware of Milo's reply to you. I don't think he's got the time to even go looking to find it. He's telling himself there's no conspiracy because he doesn't want there to be one.  Your Ostrich post is 100% applicable.  It won't surprise me if there aren't others involved as well. BobM2 comes immediately to mind.  When he told me to go screw myself I screen shot it, uploaded it to a hosting site (imgur) and put the BB Code link in the private message to Skye, so it would display the actual screen I saw.  Skye replied that he's sent a warning to  BobM2.  And then, I received this one yesterday afternoon.  So, even after he was warned, he sent this out.  

This morning the wind chill on Long Island USA was -18.8889 C

Yep.... that's why the original A6 in this thread is called the Sootmonster.  It could really lay down a smoke screen when hoofed, especially if you'd been dawdling for a while just before.  Complete fog-bank behind.  It was embarrassing.  That's how they were from new. Ironically, disabling/removing all of it's primitive emissions control devices (EGR & CAT) completely cured it of that tendency  And it picked up 5 mpg average.  It's also capable of up 65 mpg on a long run if driven very carefully. Late 40's to early 50's is usual.  Not bad for a 140bhp 2.5 designed in the early 90s. These are all imperial gallons mind, so 4.54 litres, not 3.78 litres.

Wah....!  No thanks! How do your dogs cope? You much be forever chipping the them off trees/lamp posts? (Not my first thought but it'll do  )

Yes it is. Yes again.  Because in their heads freedom of speech (freedumb in their case all too often) is for them, not for you.  Unless you happen to be agreeing with their world view.

Original pics should be visible again as now hosted on this site.

My header tank has the level warning it has a pressure cap , what are the benefits of a screw cap? On my Sprint head i have the plate at the back it was a rimmers one but i tapped it and thats where the DC and ECU thermostats are. The hot water for the heater is feeding from here the return is plumbed in just before the DC EWP in the bottom rad hose. I am with you on not wanting to compromise, you obviously got it to work on your Dolly Sprint so it must be possible on a TR7 sprint. My rad is plumbed different so i just need to work out what i am doing. using the Land rover thermostat i see it is a three pipe connection I am assuming one is hot water in one goes to top of rad and the other goes to Header tank?    

Okay quite a bit going on here. Not good news I'm afraid. This is going to be a rather long reply. The blocked off bypass is fine. To be blunt, the DC controller is a piece of pish. You need to throw it away. On a standard set up, when the thermostat is closed the flow is through the bypass tube.... as this is now blocked off, what is happening on your car is that the DC pump is spinning* but not actually pumping coolant (a state that DC warn against) the instruction to "drill 10mm diameter holes in the thermostat" is nonsense (a DC pump cannot 80 litres of coolant through such apertures in a minute). Header tank plumbing..... the 8mm hose vent to the header tank is fine (because it is from the thermostat housing, which is the highest point of the cooling system). On a TR7 the header tank outlet is to the top of the radiator.... this was standard practise across cars for a short time only  because to function fully the header needs to be connected into the bottom hose before the pump. * Now if you connect your setup to the bottom hose, you will find the engine will stall because the DC pump cannot pump through two tiny holes in the thermostat, this is because the the pressure into the pump is now being applied directly.  As an aside I would change the header for something with a low level warning and a (more reliable) screw in cap. The heater won't work because you have it connected into a cold water supply. (The return is fine) The hottest part of a slant four engine is the back of the cylinder head. It is for that reason that factory TR7 Sprints had the heater supply from there. (I think you can still buy new TR7 Sprint cylinder head plates from Rimmers, but I have bought a Sprintspeed one https://www.sprintspeed.co.uk/pages/products-manufactured/product-engine/) I would locate the engine temperature probe in this plate.   In conclusion, you need to do the following 1. ditch the standard thermostat and DC controller 2. fit a remote thermostat (I have a Land Rover 88ºC one), which involves installing external engine plumbing. 3. connect the header tank into the bottom hose (before the pump) 4. replumb the heater hoses 5. fit a temperature probe to the back of the cylinder head for the EFI   Sorry to be the bringer of bad news. There are a few Dolomite owners running DC set ups but they are just putting up with having to richen the mixture and do without a heater due to the lower running temperature (70ºC instead of 88ºC), me however cannot accept such a compromise.   So is it worth sticking with an electric coolant pump? In my opinion the answer is yes. The mechanical pump uses a lot of engine power. Properly installed an electric pump gives similar benefits to a lightened flywheel. I have a USA manufactured Stewart pump which gives 200 litres per minute flow and is rated at 10,000 hours. You couldn't bribe me to use any DC product after my experience with them.   Thanks Ian

I have. Once. Winter of 81/82 in the Highlands. Superb skiing but everything else packed in. This country isn't set up to cope with that sort of cold. Brrr....