Managed to find a NOS AC YD fuel pump (D=detachable valves), and rebuilt it with a new diaphragm and valves in the hope that they will be more ethanol resistant than the original parts. The pump was just sold as an AC fuel pump, but the arm does appear compatible: Radiator came back after its recore, looking much better, but not ready to fit it yet. Hope the new core lasts 70 years like the last one. Spent some time redoing the fuel line under the car, but actually the original steel line was very solid. I will add a filter near the tank, as I'm not naive enough to believe the tank is clean inside. Started putting things back in the engine bay, fuel pump installed, new fuel line to carburettor, new distributor pedestal installed: Bought a new set of plugs for it, because I noticed that for some reason it had colder plugs fitted (B5ES) so replaced them with B6ES, on removing them I noticed this: I have checked them before, and I swear they all looked acceptable... We'll see, the engine didn't smoke badly when it was running, so I am a bit surprised. Maybe I should start looking at the "new" engine.. It did have some smoke out the valve cap, but given the age of the oil I wasn't that worried. All the other plugs looked fine, just a bit black as it hadn't been on any long drives since moving it to the new house. Refilled up the gearbox with EP90, fitting nice brass hex headed plugs in place of the nasty square head ones. Also, topped up steering box with this stuff as recommended by the Standard Club, rather interesting, think it might be applicable for trunnions?

I can once testing is finished next week do a full write up and also port in my triumph r160 guide. I think you might have seen an early copy of the guide Nick.

Agree it’s well worthy of a thread of its own and was going to suggest adding to the thread I thought I started on the subject many years ago - except I’ve failed to find that thread  

Excellent, Sigma! Please mods, can this post be copied, as the start of a new thread, perhaps entitled new way, CV rear axle?   It's so valuable, and buried in a popular thread, difficult to find! John  

Yes please. I need to do something about my gt6 rotoflex shafts, replaced the doughnuts 3 times in 20 years, and they are on there way out again.  Thanks

So today is a good day. Not only did i finish work 45 mins early I finally have an off the shelf replacment for the rover 100 shafts. As some of you might know i have been trying to continue the excellent design Nick developed for CV axles however with the rover 100 shafts now basically unobtainum i have been trying to find a replacment shaft. I had a few years back come up with my own sollution using the toyota starlet CV as a outer CV and a custom shaft which worked with the stock uprights however i always liked the ease of Nicks solution with the MGF bearings which avoided the shimming. So the part i have found that fits the job  is the NISSAN PRIMERA Front left drive shaft and you can get them without CV's new for under £30! That the MGF CV on one end and it fits perfectly and the subaru inner race on the other. The subaru potentially could do with a shim between the circlip and the race to stop any movement. I do still need to test it on one of my spare chasiss but given its the same length as my previous ones with the starlet im hopefull.  Shaft length is 422 with 22 spline count at each end. However the Subaru CV's have a lot of plunge and the R160 is around 40mm narrower than the Triumph shaft. The centre section does cut off to normal shaft bellow (apparently there for balancing on the primera) I can start a new thread with all the info if people think it would be of use? Time for a drink to celebrate!

The voice told me to buy it….. the voice is loud…. And scary…..

I think that's been happening for years.   First time, I saw someone in the supermarket talking to themselves, and it wasn't Walmart.  In fact they were taking orders from 'er indoors.

😆. I take it that is Scottish related . 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿 

You two could do a swap🙃