Yeah. Had a few debates myself in the past. The civil structural guys tend to base everything, deflection, depth of section, etc on rules of thumb against span with lots of allowances at every stage. And usually on the assumption that someone is going to be living on the floor above, even if there isn't one! Lazy. And almost always grossly oversize. I look at it as a Mechanical Engineer and do the calculations on the actual load case which they have real emotional problems with. If Planning are involved (there is an ironic term) then you don't have much option but to comply but worth a debate with the worked calcs in front of them regardless. 

For sure.  A loop shouldn’t be a major job, and you can make it removable too.    As you imply, one of those you don’t think about it until you see it. If you spend some time around drag strips, you see it a lot more. 

Aye, better watch or I start with the Weegie

MOT due shortly. So while I have been buggering about with dodgy switches I have also been cheecking over the rest of the car. Did the basic service, oils, filters, trunions (TR6 based front suspension), etc. Reliant specify grease for the trunions rather than oil like the small Triumphs. Although like both small and big Triumph forums there is a bit of a debate as to the 'best' approach, gear oil, LM grease or CV grease. I tend to alternate oil and grease. Not tried CV yet. Grease this time but it had been under pressure in the gun for a while and separated so the back end was full of the oil component which all poured out when I picked the thing up. Bit of a mess to clean up! Other than the lights and switches everything else seemed OK bar the handbrake which had developed a ratehr long travel even with the adjusters well in. Took the drums off to check but the shoes were in good nick so cleaned everything up and gave the friction surface of the drum a bit of a rub with 400 grit to clear off some glazing. Next most likely issue then is where brake cable loops around a pulley wheel that is attached to the handbrake lever. A bit like the Spitfire/Herald except that the cable is in a Bowden sleeve. It has previous... Having jacked up the car it was unfortunatly the case and the cable had slipped off one side of the pulley. It's mounted up on the side of the runnel above the propshaft. A bugger to get at, but losening off all the adjusters meant I could pop the cable back into the pulley and the readjust everything. At least the barrel adjuster on the handbrake end works fine owing to many years of splash lubrication. Only other issue is a coolant weep. Annoyingly both of the block drain plugs have developed a slight weep. Tightening mankes no odds to the only solution is to remove and refit with some thread sealant. As this involves dumping the coolant I can live with the odd drip for now.

Jeez Wayne, if we keep talking like cuzy-bro’s the rest of the whanu will need a translation app ay! after 30 years away from home I am a bit rusty 😇

I have some of those 'special tools' in the garage too

Some interesting looking shapes there

Thank you @redgaz. Was on the cusp of ordering and you tipped me over the edge. Deed done. Back to the lightswitch though. Getting the thing out is a bit of a palaver. Minimum access requires removal of the radio and radio mount. Then unclip the illumination lamp from the switch and wriggle the switch/connector out. Dismantling the switch is pretty straightforward as it all unclips with a bit of care. Master light switch was in pretty decent nick as I had replaced it a few years back after it suffered an 'overheat' incident . Cleaned and greased it with the contact grease anyway before putting it all back together. While it was all out I thought I'd have a look at the others, fog lights, hazards, rear screen and heater blower, as they all exhibit occasional irrational behaviour. Hardly surprising really. Hazard switch.. Fogs.. Nasty, lots of corrosion. And weirdly lots of dried up red grease. Not sure if this was original or done by a PO as it looked more like rubber grease than contact grease. All cleaned up, contacts polished back to bare metal with a brass brush, re-greased and reassembled. Another bugger of a job as the switch ilumination lamps are held in place by a separate clip that goes on from the inside, where you can't see what you're doing and can barely reach. Managed to pop the fuse on the fog lights putting things back together, this fuse is separate from the main block tucked away right under the top of the dash in behind the duct for the eyeball vent. So lots of upside down squirming in the footwell. Grrr.. Anyway performance much improved. basically the switches now work and stuff turns on as intended without lots of button wiggling. Just need to put the radio back in and reprogramme the damned thing.

Thanks Craig.  but you have done more than your fair share of helping on this project.  BIG THANK YOU for that.  it’s a shippers job and some confirmation vicroads paperwork  now. Looks like it’s been upgraded to 1st class with its own container 

Front bulkhead moved back so work can commence on the front chassis