Lotus revised that for the 7 s3 lower wishbone did they not? , there is a whopping great tube in there holding it together. There will be a rotational force on the lower wishbone under breaking is my understanding.  

Been working on a few new options for driveshafts for the R160 this evening. I had come up with a custom solution previously using custom driveshafts and a toyota starlett CV which enabled use of the triumph rotoflex upright with no modification. I was also looking into the MGF route as i like the no shim bearing option however hit the wall of lack of rover 100 driveshaft availability.  I thought ford focus/fusion might be a solution however the shaft diamter at the subaru innner CV end whilst being the right spline count is too small a diameter.  After lots of fruitless searches and a year of thinking why isnt there a database with all CV joints and centre shafts on, i found a data base with exactly that and much more. https://size.name/en Found a few driveshaft centres with the right spline 22 inner 22 outer to match the MGF and subaru CV joints. A nissan Almera drive shaft seems to hit the required specs (thankfully the large plunge of the Subaru innner gives a bit of flexabilty.) So I have ordered a bare driveshaft centre at the cost of £34 to test/pray my theory works. If it does it probably means a cost of making Subaru => MGF driveshafts sits at around £250.    

That's a great photo, but he didn't get sideways like you Hamish so can't have been trying hard enough!

It’ll be these.  https://triumphspecialtuning.com/product/89mm-piston-and-liner-kit-triumph-tr2-4a-morgan-4/ all back together and running.  seems nice and smooth 1d5cf796-8f42-49e1-ab56-aa7c05ca845b.mov

The wrong wire can do it! But "Pigeon -poo" is often due to too low power, when you're trying not to blow holes in the panel.  A piece of copper or aluminium  bar behind the seam can help. John

Sheet of tin arrived this morning so I cut a patch plate and started welding. Talk about pigeon poo!!!! I know I haven't done any welding for a few months but I wasn't that bad! Checked all the settings on the welder, still crap, tried manual settings....still crap.....then the penny dropped....I still had in plain stainless wire not the flux cored stuff I use for underside bits......don't have to worry about wind blowing the gas away. It's not as clean as with gas but good enough for welds you can't see. Then applied seam sealer to hide the old pigeon poo. A couple of small patches to weld tomorrow then can brush prime most of the underside ready to start the wheel arches on Saturday.

Whilst awaiting for me to clear more room in the barn ready for the transplant, been sorting out some awkward bits. In order to avoid too much bulkhead trimming the rear water outlet has been modified. Still debaiting doing a casting run off a 3d printed model for a nicer slightly slimer better flowing profile, especially with the fact you cant buy the shawspeed ones any more. On the plus side whilst clearing things out of the barn i came across a perfect original chrome gt6 mk3 front window trim suround!

What make?

I’d certainly try it. 

Yes like you I didn’t initially have one on this engine but it’s so free and quick revving I fitted one.  initially set at 6k but hit it far too often and not far enough peak torque so discussed with engine builder and was set to 6,250 for quite a while now and feels right.    At aintree i typically used 185/70 tyres and this gave top speed and the revs weren’t too extreme.  this time i used my 185/55 tyres and got better corner exit speed thus carried high revs for far longer than usual and I think it’s this it didn’t like.    normally my max revs are very short lived between gear changes and not holding high speed high revs i confess I’m not doing the engine it’s with the original builders.    As an aside -after 3 years competition use  the MaXpeeding rods are still excellent- they were a complete unknown quantity we we went with them.