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Herald diff halfshaft endfloat


GT6 Nick

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The output flanges of my Herald's diff have about a quarter inch of in-out movement. For a while I've ignored it, but now the diff is leaking and I suspect the gaskets or halfshaft oil seals. Before I start ordering parts from Canleys or Rimmers, can anyone tell me how the endfloat is supposed to be controlled?

Screen Shot 2018-06-26 at 7.39.43 AM.png

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Endfloat? 1/4"!!

That's a hell of a lot! Should be basically zero. Simply a plain ball bearing race pressed over the the shaft and retained with a circular section spring clip. The outer race is clamped in the casing by the seal plate.

Three possible origins of the movement

- bearing loose on shaft. Improbable as it's a tight fit ( bearings are c3 class for this reason) and I doubt there is more than 1mm spare movement between shoulder and clip.

- bearing itself (very) worn. Lot of movement for a small ball race.

- bearing moving in the casing. Only a push fit but should be clamped by the seal plate. Seal plates loose? That'd give more than a small oil leak though.

Not too bad a job apart from getting the old bearings off the shafts. Press definitely helpful!

Nick

ps Rimmer drawing is incomplete and doesn't show the seal plates, seal or retaining bolts. Does show shims fitted between seal plates and bearings to control float. No diff I've had apart has had those.

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Hmmm, if the bearing is moving in the casing, it could be due to manufacturing differences between the original iron diff housing and the new Bastück alloy casting - especially as the endfloat is the same both sides. It wouldn't be the first time remanufactured parts have been machined incorrectly (my AP caliper mounting brackets spring to mind). Time to crawl under the Herald and start unbolting and measuring.

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3 hours ago, Nick Jones said:

Not too bad a job apart from getting the old bearings off the shafts. Press definitely helpful!

When I did the output seals/bearings on the Spitfire diff I had to destroy the old bearings, no amount of pushing/pulling/pressing/hammering would shift them.

Ground the inner races (carefully) down to almost nothing, then cracked them with a cold chisel.

 

[UNSET].jpg

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That is one way of doing it and has the advantage of not bending the seal carrier plate.  Press or puller both carry that risk, though they do usually straighten fairly easily.

I've done 4 recently using the press. 1 came off fairly easily, two had to be loaded up 'til the plate started to bend then put bit of heat into the inner race. Forth one (actually the first one I did) I shattered the outer race by applying too much force and also bent the seal plate. Turned out to be because the one I put in the press wasn't the one I'd removed the clip from...... doh!!!!

Nick

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New bearings type 6205 easily available from SKF / FAG / Timken .... and other good sources.

However, I think you need the C3 Version, otherwise the clearance in the bearing will not be correct. I destroyed two bearings when I was not aware of the "C3" fact.

Martin

 

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.... ah circlips, I had some ecperience there too and a 20ton pres can destroy .......

Then I ordered new circlips.

Limora Germany (SC in UK) did not fit; Rimmer : did not fit; Moss: did not fit: Canley: fitted, but not as good as the used ones (the ones which survived :biggrin: ).

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21 minutes ago, yorkshire_spam said:

Sorry, but that made me chuckle! It sounds like exactly the sort of thing I'd do!

Yeah..... felt foolish. I do stupid stuff like that quite often. Sometimes I depress myself with my own stupidity. Took all the clips off after that so I couldn't do it again.

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18 minutes ago, Martin said:

New bearings type 6205 easily available from SKF / FAG / Timken .... and other good sources.

However, I think you need the C3 Version, otherwise the clearance in the bearing will not be correct. I destroyed two bearings when I was not aware of the "C3" fact.

Martin

 

100% correct

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