The usual give away for poor oiling is the chain slackens off fast due to too much heat.

Good point I don't recall that I have replaced them, in deed. They did not have cracks, and appeared to be stiff. Same for the bushes in the spring eyelets. The little square rubber in the "chineese house" was replaced with PU Is there a way to check the stiffness of the diff suspension  from underneath, standing in a pit?          

Had a similar thing with the 20 inch Husqvarna, you can cut something really big once or twice, but it will just knacker the chain, I've put that down to the oiling.  RR

Yup, and a fair amount of wood to find storage for!

How are the diff mounting bushes on the Spit?

That’s going to keep you going for a while and a fair amount of wood to burn 🔥 

Good evening, drove my son's Spit 1500 recently and the handling is really sharp. However it's rear end appears to have some life of it's own, when it comes to even small potholes. The rear end relocates slightly. In bends this is accompanied by mix of yaw and wobble. It feels as if the swing spring was not firmly attached to the car. Now I'm well aware, that the swing spring suspension of the Spit is not comparable to an Elan  suspension, but my 13/60 converted to GT6 swing spring with Spit 1500 front ARB has much better manners , in this aspect, almost like a modern car. Both cars do have: the swing spring refurbished ( no rust between the leaves) poly - bushes in radius arms. same Falken tires  (165 on 4,5" for the Herald, 175/70 on 5" for the Spit) Spit has new adjustable Gaz shocks. Herald has old (grey) non adjustable Gaz shocks Both cars have some toe-in for increased lane change stability U-joints have no play,(thicker circlips on Spit) Nylon fulcrum bushes on Spit are quite new What is your experience with both cars? Is that different behavior only due to the Spits lighter rear end, or is it due to the softer swing-spring combined with the longer drive shafts? P.S. setting the Gaz shocks stiffer does not seem to improve things. It makes the ride just harsh... Cheers Patrick  

Unfortunately the chainsaw is being problematic. Although that may be a bit strong, as I am pushing it to the limits of what it is capable of 😁 Started off with an almost dead chain. I think I might have extracted pretty much the working capacity out of it! Not a major issue, I ordered up a spare pretty easily. Except I bought the wrong size. In the midst of sorting that particular issue, I mistakenly thought I was running a 20" bar, turns out I have an 18" on the saw. Anyway, a new bar later I had a matching set for 20", which I need for this particular tree! A local tree surgeon had helpfully felled the remaining tree for me, as the combination of size and rot meant it was realistically beyond my skills to do so without collateral damage. Some of the noises the tree surgeon made suggested it was pushing his skills as well, however he succeeded and by a mixture of luck and skill missed my almost new polytunnel to boot. So today I started on the main trunk. The sheer size of it meant that I was right at the limit of what a 20" bar can tackle (and this is longest bar I can sensibly fit to my saw, it only being an Stihl MS261. A damn good saw for all that, but the main trunk really wants something a fair bit bigger.) I am taking into pieces in order to manage weight and size. However, this has raised the Achilles heel of this saw, namely the oiler. It's simply not really capable of supplying a 20" bar in heavy wood. Light wood would be okay. So I have now ordered an adjustment screw for an MS460, which once fitted to my oil pump will nicely increase the flow. A known mod in the professional saw community. I am also considering opening up the exhaust muffler to extract a few fractions of horsepower from the engine as well. Again a known mod, and fortunately in my case the saw is modern enough to have an "Mtronic" carb, so it will auto adjust the fueling to match.

Well, a good dose of electroclean, a rag, some judicious removal and reapplication of grease and a good filing of the copper ring on the solenoid plunger (which was anything but flat, still isn't perfect by any means but is much improved) and we have success. Spins over with far more enthusiasm and engages every time (so far that is). So that's a few pennies saved for the time being at least.

Okay, starter is out. Firstly, it isn't a Powerlite, rather an Edge Reduction gear starter, and yes it uses an inbuilt solenoid. It's rather dirty, but I'm not seeing anything majorly wrong, unless better eyes see anything?