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Brake Caliper Piston Size


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Thanks for the spreadsheet Fred.

 

Excuse me if I don't rush outside to go measure my drums and shoes etc — it's ruddy freezing :)

 

I'm working out some rear disc calculations — using 285 discs on the front and 270 (Saab 90) discs on the back gives a pretty damned good balance based on the rough CG that I am estimating. In fact with that setup you use the same size pistons front and back but with just 2 on the back.

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Excuse me if I don't rush outside to go measure my drums and shoes etc — it's ruddy freezing :)

Sissy :P

I changed front discs and pads outside this weekend.

My hands were a bit cold afterwards.

 

Sounds like you're on the right track. :thumbsup:

I would still err on the side of caution, i.e. "under-braked" rear.

Why do you want to go to rear discs?

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I might not :)

 

It depends what your spreadsheet says :)

 

If I can play with drums (work out Stag bits — will need to find someone to measure those for me) then I will probably stick with them.

 

Just like the idea of being able to play with the rear a bit more and discs seems to give more options

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Additionally — I also have the 265 discs that have already been modified to fit.

 

I have a plan to make the brackets for the 265 discs and then make a 20mm spacer for the 285 discs.

 

I have two options then — one that gives 7% and one that gives 15% increase over the standard setup.

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HiSpec Motorsport Billet 4 w/ 38.6mm pistons in red

 

I replaced the standard M16 calipers on the race car with HiSpec lightweights - and would do it again, great retardation and very even/predictable/feel. Nice bits of kit. Running 1155 on the race car, but then you know it'll take a couple of corners to warm them up, and have the track to do it.

 

R

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Requires M10 so 1.5 pitch

 

Have been thinking about the rears and how easy it will be to make a caliper bracket — am wondering how thick the part that sandwiches between the hub trailing arm needs to be. With the 2000 I have an advantage that I could use the later longer shafts to compensate for the thickness— the later shafts are an extra 31mm in length though I don't need quite that much and wonder how much the shorter shafts will stretch.

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James, when considering sandwiching stuff between the bearing housing and trailing arm, bear in mind that the snug fit of the shoulder of the bearing housing in the bore inside the arm is what takes most of the cars weight and cornering load - not the feeble studs therefore you need to leave as much of this engaged as possible. I guess you gain no more than 3mm removing the backplate, and I'd reckon on an absolute maximum of 3mm "spare" on top of that - so there is your limiting factor. I think the driveshafts would handle that!

 

Nick

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Thanks Nick— an important point that I didn't realise— I was thinking last night that those studs are pretty lightweight.

 

A 6mm bracket doesn't seem all that strong though it's quite a large area with all those nuts. Probably needs to be out of steel rather than aluminium?

 

The Herald drum adapter plates I had when I planned to put Princess type brakes on the front of my Spit's GT6 suspension were pretty thin! And of course because this is for the rear it's nowhere near as loaded as the front.

 

I guess the other way is to put it on the outside of the bearing housing though that would probably need an offset bracket for clearance.

 

I need to do some measuring :)

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Guessing, but I'd estimate 8mm basic thickness of the plate reduced to 4 - 5mm at the flange - which should acceptable. The strength in "torque" to resist wheel rotation is not in doubt due to the size of the plate (as you point out) - the potential issue would be lateral flexibility -which is addressed in the above design by the "wrap-around" design. I'd be quite happy with that. Plate wants to have a decent radius where the thickness is reduced - looks like the one in the picture has this.

 

Nick

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Thinking laterally — something that is a similar shape to that adapter — a brake disc…

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CITROEN-BX-PEUGEOT-305-405-SOLID-FRONT-BRAKE-DISCS-/380405228396?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item5891eb236c#ht_968wt_1185

 

Cheap as a starter to get the right shape — might be quite heavy though :)

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You know how you should always measure twice :D

 

I cocked up my calculations by somehow changing the pad friction at some point.

 

I think I'll go back to using the 265 discs — bit of a pain as I just spent £60 on the 285 discs. 23% extra torque on the front seems a bit scary to me! If I do something with the backs I could use the 285s on the front of course.

 

Final values all using 0.42 pad coef

 

 

Triumph 2000 727

Triumph Stag (w/ 0.875 MC) 659

Triumph Stag 896

 

265, small pistons 651

265, large pistons 813

 

285, small pistons 704

285, large pistons 880

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You're right 23% more torque does sound like a lot, specially without rear mods.

 

Can you use the same caliper mounting holes for the 285 disc? Or do you have to relocate the calipers?

If not it would be interesting to carefully try it out on some private road.....

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