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jeffc

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Posts posted by jeffc

  1. Greetings Folks,

     

    I finally found some time to do some work on the bits and pieces received from Canley. The front hubs already had the Spitfire studs installed. I successfully pressed those small studs out and, fearing potential damage by using the press to install the CLP9037L studs, I opted to use deep lug nuts to pull the CLP9037L studs into the front hubs.

    Problem....

    The CLP9037L studs can be pushed out of the front hubs with minimal effort. The rear flange of the CLP9037L studs is a bit bigger than the original Spitfire studs that were received with the Canley hubs causing the CLP9037L studs to not seat all the way into the recesses. I imagine I should gently reduced the diameter of the CLP9037L flange until they do seat all of the way into the  hub recesses.

    Question:

    Does anybody know if there is a product that would help the stud splines to "grab" the hub splines?

    I was considering some Loctite Red 272 which has the strongest "grip" on threads, but I am not sure how (or if) it would work with splines.

     

    Any thoughts/ suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

     

    Thanks in advance and best regards,

     

    Jeff

     

     

  2. Very excited to have received a package from Fillongley Warwickshire. Most everything looks good. I am a bit surprised that the front left vertical link looks to have been finished by a drunk 6 year old. I don't doubt that all of the holes are in the right places but the form and finish are reminiscent of of a 1970's Vietnamese rickshaw technology.

    20230203_201432.jpg

    20230203_201423.jpg

    20230203_201419.jpg

    20230203_201446.jpg

  3. @Zetecspit

    I will have another look around the Canley site to see if there are any guides/instructions.

     

    @Nick Jones

    Spacers are "NO LONGER AVAILABLE" at Canley. I checked all the normal sites and it seem nobody has the spacers. I will do a bit more searching. Might need to just make a set.

  4. Greetings Gurus,

    I have a set of Canley CV axles that I am fitting to GT6 Rotoflex hubs/vertical links. My problem is, when I obtained the GT6 rear suspension components they did not include the spacer and shim used to position hub at the correct depth on the axles. I contacted Canley who replied "Build shafts as original. using original spacers/shims".
    I have checked all the normal suppliers and cannot find the spacer. I do find shims in both .003 in and .005 in thickness. The Canley website seems to suggest that the standard spacer is .139 in.(just a number in a description) and, on the pictorial parts diagram, what appears to be a hand written note,  the shim seems to be listed as .003 in.

    Question: Can anybody verify the thickness of the thick spacer and the thinner shim?

    Thanks again!

     

  5. Greetings Folks,

    Is there some trick to removing the rear mount bushings from the differential? Maybe a good bit of heat on the differential ears and a big honkin' press? Is it possible that there could be corrosion between the OD of bushing and the ID of the differential ear that would require some penetrating oil?

    Thanks in advance!

  6. Greetings folks,

     

    My CV axles finally arrived so I was in the process of installing the new Freelander wheel studs when I learn that one of the holes, IN BOTH HUBS!!, is oversized (the stud spins in the hole).

    Does anybody know of any wheel studs that are the same overall dimensions as the Freelander wheel studs but with a larger diameter spline area?

     

    Thanks in advance,

     

    Jeff

  7. There are a couple of folks on the forum that would be able to give you a quick answer, but, if you have a little time on your hands, find a copy of "Tune to Win" By Carroll Smith (one of the suspension bibles). It is a very dry read but incredibly informative. My copy is a 1978, so it is perfect for our cars. I do not know if it has been reprinted. "How to make your car handle" by Fred Puhn is another good book (a little newer).

  8. I have read many threads concerning the pros/cons of Koni/Avo/Spaxs/etc. But I have not seen anything concerning the diameter. It seems that 2.5" diameter is the most mentioned. Does anybody have any knowledge/opinions concerning 1.9" vs 2.25" vs 2.5"? With a vehicle as light as the Spitfire, is it safe to assume that the 1.9" is sufficient? Everything else being equal, the 1.9" would at least be lighter and save some space. Why would the 2.5" be selected when a 1.9" is lighter and smaller"

     

    Thanks in advance and best regards,

     

    Jeff

     

     

  9. Well........

     

    The Pro-Tech history...

     

    Began communication: Dec. 04, 2008

    Multiple e-mails to determine specs.

    Placed order: Jan. 07 2009 (both online and an e-mail to clarify)

    NO reply.

    Sent additional e-mail asking if they accepted the order: Jan. 28, 2009

    Received e-mail requesting address and phone number (phone number was included since Jan. 07 e-mail): Jan 29, 2009

    Sent address and phone number: Jan 29, 2009

    Received e-mail concerning 1/2 inch bushes and length: Jan. 30 2009

    Sent confirmation on specs: Jan 31, 2009

     

    NOTHING since Jan 31, 2009!!

     

    I am moving on to AVO. I know that Konis are better but, since I am not racing and Konis are 50% more expensive than AVO..........

    Now, if everything else is equal, does anybody have opinions concerning the pros and cons of 1.9" vs. 2,25" shock bodies? Is it merely a weight savings or are there other dynamics involved?

    (maybe this should be in the suspension section?)

     

    Thanks in advance,

     

    Jeff

     

  10. Greetings Kusanagi,

     

    I am in the process of much the same conversion (Oldsmobile 3.5). Currently, I am focused on the rear suspension but will soon move my attention to the engine placement. It seems that to get the engine to sit as low as possible, it will need to be moved behind the steering rack (or the steering rack moved, which I have seen). If the engine is moved behind the steering rack, it appears that some modification to the firewall is required. Would it be possible to see some additional pictures of your engine bay/firewall?

     

    Thanks in advance,

     

    Jeff

  11. Not racing. I just think the 15" and 16" look better and 13" and 14" tires are usually special order items (at least in north Texas).

    The rear is being converted to CV axles and rotoflex uprights with fully adjustable suspension, so there will not be the normal camber issue.

     

    I have reads where some folks are running 205/45 on 16X7 rims and, although the tires fit, they are a bit close for comfort. GT5R is running the ONLY set of 16X6 rims that I have heard of (not sure of the tire size). I believe the only modification I have read about is where some folks have had to modify the fender lip to add a bit of clearance. I have seen LOTS of 15" rims mantioned.

     

    There is one thread on the forum where folks have listed the main specs of their cars (including wheels and/or tires) but there does not seem to be any mention of the work it takes to fit the larger tires.

     

     

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