jeffc

OOPS! The stud base is .630 -vs- .665. (Note to self: make optometrist appointment)

Greetings again, I might be able countersink them a bit. I had not thought about that option. The base of the CLP9037L are .035 larger than the small base of the studs installed by Canley (.830 -vs- .865). Thanks for the idea! Jeff

Howdy Roger, Yes, the number on the individual packages is "CLP9037L" and the base of the stud is tapered from the base of the splines to the edge of the flange (exactly as the picture you provided). Do you have the Canley aluminum front hubs? Thanks for the reply! Jeff

Greetings Folks, I finally found some time to do some work on the bits and pieces received from Canley. The front hubs already had the Spitfire studs installed. I successfully pressed those small studs out and, fearing potential damage by using the press to install the CLP9037L studs, I opted to use deep lug nuts to pull the CLP9037L studs into the front hubs. Problem.... The CLP9037L studs can be pushed out of the front hubs with minimal effort. The rear flange of the CLP9037L studs is a bit bigger than the original Spitfire studs that were received with the Canley hubs causing the CLP9037L studs to not seat all the way into the recesses. I imagine I should gently reduced the diameter of the CLP9037L flange until they do seat all of the way into the hub recesses. Question: Does anybody know if there is a product that would help the stud splines to "grab" the hub splines? I was considering some Loctite Red 272 which has the strongest "grip" on threads, but I am not sure how (or if) it would work with splines. Any thoughts/ suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance and best regards, Jeff

Very excited to have received a package from Fillongley Warwickshire. Most everything looks good. I am a bit surprised that the front left vertical link looks to have been finished by a drunk 6 year old. I don't doubt that all of the holes are in the right places but the form and finish are reminiscent of of a 1970's Vietnamese rickshaw technology.

Good to know a second source exists. The ebay source appears to be increasing the price. I bought for GBP 33. Now they are listed for GBP 36.

Ordered 2 of the "Triumph Vitesse / GT6 rear rotoflex set up shims in drive shaft sets". 2 Sets = GBP 66.00 Shipping = GBP 43.82 Tax = GBP 12.68 Total = GBP 118.88 (Hmmm... math must work different on the internet) US 151.84

I do not know where Nick Jones is but I am in the States and the listing suggests 28.78 GBP. If I need two sets, will I need to pay two postage fees?

@Nick Jones A lathe would be useful for many projects. Can you also provide recommendations for how to convince my wife to park her car outside? @zetecspit Your procedure picture will help. Thanks for sharing. @iani Thanks for the link. But.... then I wont need a lathe ..... and I will have even fewer reasons for asking my wife to park outside. Pros/Cons.

@Zetecspit I will have another look around the Canley site to see if there are any guides/instructions. @Nick Jones Spacers are "NO LONGER AVAILABLE" at Canley. I checked all the normal sites and it seem nobody has the spacers. I will do a bit more searching. Might need to just make a set.

Greetings Gurus, I have a set of Canley CV axles that I am fitting to GT6 Rotoflex hubs/vertical links. My problem is, when I obtained the GT6 rear suspension components they did not include the spacer and shim used to position hub at the correct depth on the axles. I contacted Canley who replied "Build shafts as original. using original spacers/shims". I have checked all the normal suppliers and cannot find the spacer. I do find shims in both .003 in and .005 in thickness. The Canley website seems to suggest that the standard spacer is .139 in.(just a number in a description) and, on the pictorial parts diagram, what appears to be a hand written note, the shim seems to be listed as .003 in. Question: Can anybody verify the thickness of the thick spacer and the thinner shim? Thanks again!

A length of all-thread, a modified socket, little oxy-acetylene heat on the differential ear ...... bushings pull out with a little muscle. 1 job down, an uncountable number to go.

Greetings Mr. ...... Ecosse(?), I have already succeeded in ripping the center sleeve out of one of the bushings. I may do the same for the other bushing then try the saw blade approach. Thanks for the direction.

Greetings Folks, Is there some trick to removing the rear mount bushings from the differential? Maybe a good bit of heat on the differential ears and a big honkin' press? Is it possible that there could be corrosion between the OD of bushing and the ID of the differential ear that would require some penetrating oil? Thanks in advance!

Greetings John, A spot of weld sounds easy enough. Thanks for the suggestion and detailed explanation. Jeff

Greetings folks, My CV axles finally arrived so I was in the process of installing the new Freelander wheel studs when I learn that one of the holes, IN BOTH HUBS!!, is oversized (the stud spins in the hole). Does anybody know of any wheel studs that are the same overall dimensions as the Freelander wheel studs but with a larger diameter spline area? Thanks in advance, Jeff

There are a couple of folks on the forum that would be able to give you a quick answer, but, if you have a little time on your hands, find a copy of "Tune to Win" By Carroll Smith (one of the suspension bibles). It is a very dry read but incredibly informative. My copy is a 1978, so it is perfect for our cars. I do not know if it has been reprinted. "How to make your car handle" by Fred Puhn is another good book (a little newer).

What was the deciding factor on using the 2.25"? Moving from 475lbs down to 325lbs seems like a MAJOR move.

Avo makes 1.9" coil-overs. It appears as though all of the same length combinations are available in the 1.9" as are available in the 2.25" and 2.5". Being smaller and lighter, the 1.9" seemed like a good option.

I have read many threads concerning the pros/cons of Koni/Avo/Spaxs/etc. But I have not seen anything concerning the diameter. It seems that 2.5" diameter is the most mentioned. Does anybody have any knowledge/opinions concerning 1.9" vs 2.25" vs 2.5"? With a vehicle as light as the Spitfire, is it safe to assume that the 1.9" is sufficient? Everything else being equal, the 1.9" would at least be lighter and save some space. Why would the 2.5" be selected when a 1.9" is lighter and smaller" Thanks in advance and best regards, Jeff

Well........ The Pro-Tech history... Began communication: Dec. 04, 2008 Multiple e-mails to determine specs. Placed order: Jan. 07 2009 (both online and an e-mail to clarify) NO reply. Sent additional e-mail asking if they accepted the order: Jan. 28, 2009 Received e-mail requesting address and phone number (phone number was included since Jan. 07 e-mail): Jan 29, 2009 Sent address and phone number: Jan 29, 2009 Received e-mail concerning 1/2 inch bushes and length: Jan. 30 2009 Sent confirmation on specs: Jan 31, 2009 NOTHING since Jan 31, 2009!! I am moving on to AVO. I know that Konis are better but, since I am not racing and Konis are 50% more expensive than AVO.......... Now, if everything else is equal, does anybody have opinions concerning the pros and cons of 1.9" vs. 2,25" shock bodies? Is it merely a weight savings or are there other dynamics involved? (maybe this should be in the suspension section?) Thanks in advance, Jeff

Greetings Kusanagi, I am in the process of much the same conversion (Oldsmobile 3.5). Currently, I am focused on the rear suspension but will soon move my attention to the engine placement. It seems that to get the engine to sit as low as possible, it will need to be moved behind the steering rack (or the steering rack moved, which I have seen). If the engine is moved behind the steering rack, it appears that some modification to the firewall is required. Would it be possible to see some additional pictures of your engine bay/firewall? Thanks in advance, Jeff

This site also has a pretty cool tire comparison calculator (multiple target sizes and also gives available tires per size). http://www.1010tires.com/tiresizecalculator.asp

Not racing. I just think the 15" and 16" look better and 13" and 14" tires are usually special order items (at least in north Texas). The rear is being converted to CV axles and rotoflex uprights with fully adjustable suspension, so there will not be the normal camber issue. I have reads where some folks are running 205/45 on 16X7 rims and, although the tires fit, they are a bit close for comfort. GT5R is running the ONLY set of 16X6 rims that I have heard of (not sure of the tire size). I believe the only modification I have read about is where some folks have had to modify the fender lip to add a bit of clearance. I have seen LOTS of 15" rims mantioned. There is one thread on the forum where folks have listed the main specs of their cars (including wheels and/or tires) but there does not seem to be any mention of the work it takes to fit the larger tires.

It should have been www.prirace.com (now who swapped the "I" and the "O" on my keyboard?). The car is a 1980 Spitfire.