josh18 Posted January 25, 2016 Share Posted January 25, 2016 Thanks guys. I see I can get the King Tri-metal for a good price in Australia, Id feel more comfortable using them than the bearings I have. I'll buy a set when the engine builder lets me know if the crank needs a grind or not. I'll check out those Revington ones too. Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh18 Posted January 26, 2016 Share Posted January 26, 2016 Just checked out the revington VP2 style. Look really good and priced not too bad either. Thanks for the heads up! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaeljf Posted June 9, 2020 Share Posted June 9, 2020 Hello, I realise it's late but this might be of some use to someone out there. With some help from Nick here is my experience (so far) with main/big end bearings for the "" One step foward two steps back" Thread. King box EB4M2407-010 and inside county M341 010 AX bearing and King box EB6B2406-010 and inside county C448 010 BX bearings. Regards,Michael. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaeljf Posted July 3, 2020 Share Posted July 3, 2020 Hello, I have just put these on my rebuild thread but thought they might be useful here too. Regards,Michael. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaeljf Posted July 3, 2020 Share Posted July 3, 2020 Hello, Sorry important bit. $110 rod bearings, $105 main bearings, $ Australian. regards,Michael. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparky_spit Posted July 3, 2020 Share Posted July 3, 2020 Hi Michael - are these tri-metal or aluminium-tin bearings? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaeljf Posted July 8, 2020 Share Posted July 8, 2020 Hello Sparky_spit, As Nicks description and the sellers claim (Their second sets sent to me) they are the tri-metal. The first sets were shiny aluminium coloured. These sets are dull finish even though the second set look a bit shiny in the photo,and the numbers are supposed to mean so too! Regards, Michael. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparky_spit Posted July 8, 2020 Share Posted July 8, 2020 That's useful info - thanks for posting! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparky_spit Posted August 14, 2020 Share Posted August 14, 2020 Just bought the same ones, tri-metal mains and big-ends (except for a 1500 4cyl; not a 6cyl) and they were a good price (about £30 a set) from Moto-Build Racing in Sutton, Surrey. They arrived within a day and look good. Just need to test fit and check clearances. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparky_spit Posted August 14, 2020 Share Posted August 14, 2020 ..and you are correct Nick; the new King/County tri-metal mains give a clearance that's 0.001" larger than I want. But I think I have a plan for that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted August 14, 2020 Share Posted August 14, 2020 INteresting you are finding that on the mains. Pretty sure it was the BEs that I had issue with though that might have been because I had a set of VP2s left for the mains...... I forget..... Are your BEs measuring ok? Plasti-gauge or "proper" measuring? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparky_spit Posted August 15, 2020 Share Posted August 15, 2020 Definitely the mains giving 1 thou extra clearance than the old bearings (VP2), and the big-ends giving 0.25 of a thou extra, even though they were the same King Tri-metal as the old ones. So I'm going to re-use the VP2 Main shells, which were unmarked, and which give me 2 thou clearance, and use the new King Tri-metal big-end shells which give me 2 thou clearance also. Clearance figures from the machine shop's Big Book of Specs states Mains clearance as 0.0005" to 0.0022" and big-end clearance as 0.001" to 0.003", so I'm happy with that. Just a bit to explain why I can re-use the VP2 main shells.... I took the crank into Robertson's in Colchester for a re-grind. The bloke in charge opened the conversation with "That looks like a Triumph crank..." as I put it on the counter. He then spent 20 minutes measuring, looking like he was born with a micrometer in his hand, consulting the very thick book open on the counter, doing a quick test on the crank journal surfaces out in the workshop itself, before deciding it didn't need a re-grind but just a polish. Although the journals look bad in the pictures in the "1500 Engine post mortem" thread on here, they were not as bad as they appeared and he reckoned he could polish them out and still stay within the diameter tolerances. And he did. They ended up at 2.311" and 1.866" (Big-ends were already 10 thou under) and are as smooth as a baby's bum. And to do this he charged me £24. And said that if it didn't work out okay to bring it back and he'd fix it for me. I've added him to my Christmas card list. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparky_spit Posted August 15, 2020 Share Posted August 15, 2020 Sorry - meant to add that I used Plasti-gauge; I've got a set of four micrometers but no internal sprung measuring thingys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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