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rustbuckit2011

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  1. I ended up putting the car on a truck and got it home. It's fabulous- a real testament to the previous owners. The best part is- it's not original. It has been fitted with all the S parts except the dash (which I'll sort) so I won't feel too bad modifying it a little. My health has been pretty stable for the last few months but is still liable to deteriorate at the drop of a hat, so I'll start small so as to ensure the car is still in one piece if it all turns to custard. Apologies- this will be a bit of a boring thread for a while until I start getting into the good stuff. It's a good platform to detail what's been done for any future owners. First off- rear seatbelts were fitted so I can take the kids. While the seats were out I took the opportunity to add some more soundproofing in the form of 4mm butyl rubber behind them and under the parcel shelf. I have some dynamat on order so the seats will be out again when that arrives. The car is actually already very quiet, but my hearing is terrible and the kids noisy, so anything I can do to lessen road noise is pretty high on the list. Next up semi-sealed h4s were swapped in and relayed. They have highlighted the failings of the alternator. I have an old mx5 one on the shelf from the herald project which will find a home. Pretty exciting treasure behind these... I'm a big fan of the vinyl covered C pillars- This is a first attempt with cheap sticky vinyl. It's not bad, but I have a better plastic on order. I have never understood why these internal frames were painted white, so... I then swapped out the wiper motor for a reconditioned one I had on the shelf as the park position was, typically, elusive. Reconditioned unit worked well for 10 minutes- and then also lost its ability to park and I couldn't turn it off. I've messed around with it a couple of times, but I'm still scratching my head. I think I'll end up inserting a momentary micro switch into the park switch- does anyone 3d print the cam lobe on the drive gear? I'm quite tempted to remove the dash and fit a modern set up from a Honda, but I'd like to get this performing well first.
  2. BiTurbo, I found this cross section of the saloon hub on this excellent thread. Worth a read- - https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/57911-adooms-1972-triumph-2000/page/4/ Doesn't look like a lot a leeway there for machining the hub. I'd actually machined the back of a spitfire hub to fit a Peugeot disc- if they are dimensionally similar, I am really questioning my actions now!
  3. I am not allowed to modify a disc in any way- so the limiting factor for me (and everyone looking to fit a modern disc to a triumph) is the triumph disc to hub pcd. There are a number of 90s, 2000s Nissan models (n14 to 16, b14 to b16 etc) that use a rear hub/bearing assembly with a 27mm stub axle. These are integral sealed bearing type hubs, so the stub axle is just a straightforward 27mm diameter bar with a threaded end- very strong and very simple to have turned up. This will bolt into the triumph vertical link (or Vitesse/gt6 VL for that matter) which is, handily, already the same diameter. The hub can slip on and be torqued up to spec. These hubs are available in 4x 114.3 or 4x 100 pcd and are cheap and plentiful- well, over here they are. I don't think you got many nissans in the UK. They are about the same height as the triumph hub so track should be virtually unchanged. Obviously a multitude of top hat type discs could be used- the one I'm looking at is 258mm diameter and 22 width so nothing wild at all, but there is plenty of scope for larger or wider in theory. Caliper will be a sliding type with a similar piston area as the triumph on a simple plate adapter. Should give about the same pedal feel and bigger pads- again plentiful. It's not all straightforward. They are rear wheel hubs/bearings in their OE application. They have a larger diameter flange than than the front hubs have, so won't fit inside the bell of most discs. There are some Honda discs that may fit the bill, but it may just be easier to turn down the diameter of the hub as it opens up more disc options. Obviously this will mean I will have to turn down the diameter of the hub whenever I fit a new bearing- but these are built to have a service life of 85-100,000 miles. Also, as the inner bearing are torqued up to about 150ft.lbs against the VL bearing seat to stop the inner bearing spinning on the stub axle shaft, I'm not sure how this will seat when torqued to spec. The triumph bearing seat may be too narrow and damage the bearing, so I may have to make a collar that slips around this, effectively widening the seat and have it locate on the end of a steering arm bolt to stop it spinning. This also means that the end of the stub axle where it bolts into the triumph VL will require a larger and longer thread to be able to fit a very thick steel washer (probably need to have something turned up in the vicinity of 10mm thick) and the largest, strengthened nut possible. May be overkill, but it would be peace of mind. So much easier if I could just redrill a disc! There are a couple of bonuses to this approach however. Stub axles should be stronger. Won't need to change or nip up bearings often. Can change the disc without disturbing anything else.
  4. That is exactly the measurement I am looking for- Thank you!
  5. Thanks Nick, The cressida disc mounts inboard the hub like the triumph- but unfortunately I still don't know the mounting pcd of the triumph disc. That info just doesn't seem to be anywhere- I think I might track down a knuckle to pull apart. There is another disc that looks like it might hold potential- a nissan vanette c22 at 250 diameter, 30 height, Pcd on that is 95mm. As a matter of fact, if you haven't seen before, the whole vertical link/hub assembly of some nissan and mazda van's look Very triumph and would be worth some thorough investigation as to whether they would be useful in small chassis cars. Mazda bongo is a good example. I am beginning to think it may be easier for me to make up stub axles and use the whole van hub/disc and even calipers.
  6. The colour is, believe it or not, original- it should appear a bit more olive than the pics. I think it was an NZ only domestic shade, probably borrowed from another manufacturer at the time. We used to ride around in the back of my dad's Saffron/ Mustard one when I was a kid- even at a young age we knew of it as Baby Crap Yellow- that may also have been a domestic only colour. At the time it was embarrassing now, hell, I like a bit of character! There's nothing wrong with the brakes per se, this will be an exercise in excess. I'd love to be able to raid Stag stock, unfortunately we just never had the numbers here to have spares- even the 1144 pads are direct from the uk only and shipping is a killer. Pic of my Dads (newish) one- probably a fairer representation of colour
  7. Gday Chaps, I read conflicting reports of Toyota Cressida discs being a bolt on solution for vented discs on a saloon and tr6- but are they? Does the disc to hub pcd line up exactly or is there a difference requiring a redrill or a slot? Would anyone happen have the disc specs for a saloon by any chance as I can't find them anywhere. I am limited by the law in terms of modifications allowed to discs- as in- I can't make any. So should they not be a direct bolt on, it may be easier for me to make up new stub axles to fit the entire toyota front hub
  8. Well, New Zealand is in lockdown with a cluster of covid cases, and that's dangerous for me- not so much because my immunity is compromised, but simply because free time is the devils workshop... Because my health is too poor to really continue the herald build in earnest- and because I want the kids to grow up with fond memories of riding in Triumphs rather than avoiding the rusty car parts littering the yard- Ive bought a '76 2.5 Tc in my favorite shade of NZ green. Oops! The idea is to make it a very easy and modern drive for the wife incase I kark it suddenly, so it's an auto & power steering. It's Very tidy- not original as far as I can tell, which suits me as I am a tinkerer. Hoping to take it somewhat S spec, and, if I can perhaps one day add a modern auto box and, dare I say it, efi. Well, Let's see. But first up is brakes. Auckland traffic can be terrifying. There are just far too many rear-enders on the motorway (take that as you will). So- Vented discs, bigger calipers/pads, diesel alternator with vacuum pump, pi reservoir- that should sort the stop/start. Pics attached- of course the day after I bought it Lockdown was announced, so I can't even pick up the blasted thing!
  9. I think I'll give it a punt. Years ago I built up a 1300 that should be quite quick- but then I shelved it as I turned to the mazda engine. I'd used lots of fancy Canley alloy bits on it as I was, and still am, heavy on lightness. I've always used alloy bellhousings where possible- but these boxes are in another league altogether. I've a mate with a snagged mk2 spit, and as I've no use for the 1300 or synchro box I have sitting there, figure I may as well fit it for him and see how it goes. Not being able to use the diaphragm clutch may be a bit of a pain- but I'll look harder at it and see whether it's possible to cut, mill and tap the case for a later alloy bellhousing
  10. Hiya guys, Would anyone happen to know if it is possible to rebuild a 4 synchro 3 rail into one of the very early all alloy boxes with the integral bellhousing? I expect it probably is, but does anyone know what it entails before I dive in?
  11. I should have been clearer. I have put the mgf cv in the rotoflex upright and the mazda shaft works.
  12. Hi Fuelish, Bugger about the ordering- yes, I can guarantee it would have been cheaper! Like you say however, 24mm should be unbreakable no matter what you throw at it. I think you should be alright with you length, there is an awful lot of plunge available. It kinda comes down to where your cv sits in the upright, and mine is a ford cv that is a little different to the mgf. I know the mazda/ford shafts will work with the mgf cv as the length is slightly longer than the rover 100 ones which are known to work and I have physically slotted it into the mgf cv I have on the bench. I'm slightly off with some of my data in the above posts (late night typing) Ford KJ / KL and BH mazda 1.6 dohc b series engine auto or manual. 427mm length, 23.0mm diameter. 22 spline both end. Mazda BG, BW, probably BF? Ford KH KF anything with 1.6 Sohc b series engine auto or manual. 420mm length, 21.6mm diameter. 22 spline both ends. Shafts are available in built up form quite readily and cheaply online from amazon etc. Only 1.6 mazda b series engined axles fit as far as I am aware. 1.5, 1.3 e series engined cars are quite similar, but have 21 splines instead- Incidentally- threre is a 21 spline subaru inner joint available, but it is considered quite weak amongst the subaru community.
  13. Made a bit of a boo above- should be Laser KJ with the 22mm diameter axle. Cant edit to change. Not a lobro, but the NA Mx5 uses a 22 inner spline pot joint that may work with the fiesta - or even mgf axle for that matter. Of course I have neither to actually check that, and whether the pot joint will clear the chassis rail with a Triumph diff is another story altogether!
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