Now I've just got to try that 🫣

I ssem to remember having to shim the sensor closer to the trigger wheel when I did the Sprite. 

It's been a while since I moved away from the megajolt, but I'm inclined to agree with Nicks approach.  Set the system up so it is capable of generating spark and check this before getting too worried. Other suggestions are:  check sensor to trigger wheel gap to give best chance of generating a strong signal.  Then check that the sensor wire is kept away from the coilpack and plug leads, and that the shielding is connected up nicely.  This will give you the best chance of the signal having minimal interference noise. Other musings are that I managed to get my electronic rev counter (smiths mk4 spitfire) to work directly, however it took a few seconds and often a blip to over 2.5k rpm for it to start working.  It still does that with the new ECU setup so I think this is probably an issue with the rev counter or other wiring rather than the ignition system signal.

I had numerous discussions with contractors who were slinging together wood pellet stores.  Yes foreman, I'm afraid the earthing and explosion relief details do need to be constructed as shown... They must have missed the custard powder experiment at school.

John there used to be a great resource of “how to” on the tr web site  but it’s not there on the new system i will pm you the email for larry the champs coordinator   

Thank you, Hamish!   I missed this previously. I'd like to do some of these for 2026, especially as some (Aintree, 3 Sisters) are almost local to me.    Should I register for the series?  Where, please? TRR? John

Also, let me just try to get all of this straight in my head. @SpitfireSam method: MX5 bellhousing, shortened about an inch? Adapter plate GT6 flywheel with the OD cut down to take an MX5 ring gear MX5 starter spaced back with a few washers MX5 clutch release mechanism (though not sure which release bearing), with a little bit of clearancing on the fork and chassis Shortened clutch release bearing shaft/housing.thing MX5 clutch plate? Spigot bearing in the crank (hence the need to shorten the bellhousing, though possibly avoidable by machining the flywheel to take a bearing instead) GT6 clutch housing (necessitating some weld extensions on the fingers) @Nick Jones method: Saloon automatic removable bellhousing welded onto MX5 casing TR6 flywheel Standard starter on standard engine backplate Flywheel machined for spigot bearing (ball-race Toyota one) GT6 clutch cover MX5 clutch plate Concentric clutch slave (not sure what from) Ideally grind/machine down the boss on the MX5 clutch plate as it contacts the slave centre tube (though also solvable by shimming the bellhousing backwards 2mm) Vitesse Ltd method: Sell relative into slavery Purchase natty cast bellhousing and full fitting kit I've also remembered why I was interested in flipping the clutch arm the other way around. My engine is shifted back 4.5" already and clearance is pretty tight on the saloon gearbox I currently have fitted. The MX5 bellhousing is smaller but not that much smaller I thought....

Butt Mutt?

...butt (pun) it does provide significant shade.   Roger

Indeed, flour mills are dodgy places. If the dust doesn't kill you the flames will.   Roger