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Spit 131


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A pair of Harley Davidson wheel bearings turned up today for my MGF handbrake conversion ????

 

Having removed 15cm of cable sleeving I trialed one side . On holding the handbrake balance bar as it would be with both sides connected it seems to be of correct length , taught but not pulling the calliper lever and with both handbrake travel and adjustment available .

The MGF cables seemed VERY long at first but due to the relevant position of the calliper cable receiving arm and the direction that the cable exits reward through the rear bulkhead from the handbrake it becomes obvious that two loops are needed one to turn the cable towards the front of the car after it exits through the rear bulkhead and then one to then turn it rearward again to head backwards towards the calliper running rearwards next to the chassis rail , this seems the only direction possible that allows space for vertical movement as the wheel moves .

These Harley bearings are intended to run on the cable in the position shown by the small red pencil placed between the cable and the chassis rail in the pics . I will attach a small sheet of 6mm Teflon board to the chassis for the bearing to run on .

The cable will be looped as in the pictures which means that it will pass under itself where it's vertical movement is at its longest (in droop ) so the lower cable length will need to be held to the floor with a length of coil spring transversly fixed across the cable alowing it to move down with the cable above when the wheel moves down but to rise back up to the underside of the floor pan to increase road clearance when the wheel becomes level or is under compression .

Probably badly explained but I think you can work it out from the pictures .

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  • 1 month later...
  • 4 weeks later...

That looks like a fantastic project you're doing there, I'd be keen to discuss further and compare some ideas with my K-Series engined car (also type 9 and Subaru LSD).

 

Is that a Lancia lump in it and if so, surely it's the same car that resided in Dave Powell's garage a few years ago? (He of davesideways)!

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All seems good with these ,

Will try them on the MGF brake cable tomorrow morning , pics to follow .

If they work as well as expect It will be on to the rear lower wishbone rear chassis brackets .

 

Must say £25.00 for each of these cable bearing retainers ,considering the labour involved , seems very reasonable . M

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My Italian friend Tony around the corner from me had been too busy making carbon fibre body parts and wings for a GT Porsche team to work on my lid . Fortunately for me though the middle Eastern backer of the team decided he wanted to run Aston Martins this season and Tony felt having to start at the beginning again making up fresh moulds etc was not worth the effort so he has a bit more time on his hands meaning he is now turning my lid into a targa .

With the boot space being about 64cm max the cut line will be slightly forward of the ideal line following the front edge of the rear side windows but for the advantage of having an open top which will slip into the boot I will put up with this .

Pics to follow .

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  • 5 months later...

I am not certain how far Tony has got to with my targa lid , but I will pop in there this weekend and find out .

I was considering hiding the NOT ideal cut line on the lid , once done , by painting the area in front of what WOULD be the ideal line matt black . However , this does not look too good so perhaps I will just paint the whole hard top matt black or just except the narrow cut/join line on the white ?

Sorry I should have put the cut line on the all white version but so you know it runs across about 6cm In front of the side window pillar line .

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Edited by Spit131
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a targa roof!

 

I take it you will be cutting it in half otherwise how will you store it in the car?or is the middle bit going to be soft top style.

 

I made one around 18 years ago but gave up on the idea as storage was going to be a pain.plus it weighed more than the original soft top.

 

 

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Yes it will be cut based on the maximum size that will fit in the boot . As I said , this will leave 6cm of roof in front of the window pillars , not ideal , but for the sake of being able to go out with top open with out having to worry , I am not that concerned .

Full lid off if guaranteed sunshine or rear section on and targa section in boot just in case if changeable.

As the car is fully stripped out a light shower should not be a problem anyway .

Do you have pics of your lid on , I can not work out fully how it is set up ?

I received this rear plate from James , THANKS JAMES ! I am looking to set up my second 4.11 R160 diff with a Quaife fitted . I can use this for bedding in and touring and the Kaaz plated 4.11 R160 for track days etc

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Edited by Spit131
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afraid I don't have a pic but my intention was to have the rear of the soft top still in place with a modified/cut down frame which folded down and when erected would fit onto the rear of the roof panel much like a TVR Griffith roof works.

 

the bonnet pins in the picture was were it connected to brackets welded on the roll bar I had at the time so I could have just the panel fitted on its own for some daft reason.

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i deleted my last post it was based on flawed ' Wishful thinking !! '

On the same subject though ;

I am hesitant to use the cut and shut method on a new box as I have been warned that if it is not carried out with extreme accuracy it can cause big wear/alignment issues but it seems I may have no choice if I choose to move the lever position .

Edited by Spit131
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