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About Sam

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  1. Thanks gents. I discovered after about a day of trial and error that elec ignition modules cannot be statically timed! The spot weld mark was too large to accurately locate the tab. I managed to rig up a tape measure across the pulley and calculate degrees as millimeters. Not super accurate but it got me running. Finding exact TDC has been the trickiest as the piston stop method really needs a degree wheel attached to the pulley to be accurate. There's so little space in the front of my engine bay that I have to turn it with a spanner (1/6 at a time!). ..Off to the dyno... I discovered after about a day of trial and error that elec ignition modules cannot be statically timed
  2. Can anybody tell me if the 1500 TDC timing mark on the pulley is actually supposed to be at 0 degrees (ie vertically up)? This will save me a little time sorting out the distributor (since i pulled it to replace with electronic) PS if you want to get your timing cover chromed (and who doesn't, right?), do check that the tab is stuck tight afterwards...mine obviously wasn't. Cheers!
  3. Just as a follow up - it worked! That Ginetta diagram was my base. I put in several fuses, car audio and a few other bits and pieces like a phone charger/mp3 dock. Its extremely pleasing to know there's NO dodgy old wiring in my car now Then when I was racing (sideways of course) around a corner, a lead 'jumped' off the coil and shorted somewhere killing the points (or regulator or something). I chucked electronic ignition (petronix) in and it runs great now.
  4. Hmm, I just saw this thread bump now, but seems I went through the same drama about 18 months ago. Are these the MaxSpeeding brand? The rods didn't fit down the bores of my 1500 as they're too 'flat' on the outside face of the big end so needed to be chamfered a little to reduce the overall width. I think they are actually a GT6 pattern and the supplier admitted they didnt fit "perfectly to my application". Also, the bolt heads foul on the crank case so, yes, a notch needs to be taken out of the block (not a big one). They were out of balance by a gram or more, so I had them balanced (along with rotating assy, but this was before they got chamfer..grrr). They were 001 undersize on the pin end so needed to be honed (professionally). It was a total pain in the ass to deal with at the time and I complained to the supplier, Max speeding, actually sent out a brand new set of rods (too late to install...not sure what i'll do with these ones..theyre supposed to be better, but look identical) Moral..unless you are OK to to for balancing and machining, consider spending that money on better rods to start with. My engine is going well after 1000kms of driving. It's fairly torquey for a 1500, I guess..it's basically as brand new as I could make it - NOS crank, new tr5 grind cam, +0.30 pistons, big valves, worked head, new HS4s, igniton, pumps, etc. Revs to 5500ish but I havent really thrashed it just yet (not sure my gearbox will thank me). I will update you when it goes bang.
  5. Any thoughts on this? I've tried to "swirl" the intake runners so that they're aiming in a downward spiral toward the inlet valves (well, it'll be subtle, if any gain..but it'll look cool) The pairs of carbs (mikunis) are joined together so I dont need a brace between the manifolds. With such little room to play with, I've had to shorten the manifold design to a mere 110mm runner length. I'm looking to h ave it watercut (and I'll finish it by hand) out of engineering grade alunimum (maybe marine if i can source it). Thanks!
  6. Okay after finding a bunch of melted wiring and other horrors, I've now replaced most of the loom so far. An Auto electrician is checking it before I hit the ON button...just to be safe. Most helpful diagram i found was this one from the Ginetta. I do have a generator and control box so i've kept those as is (if they work!). The only upgrades i've done are fuse box (blade fuses) and major earth straps. http://www.nearthecoast.com/plasticcars/ginetta/ginetta-g15/g15-tech-guide/pdf/G15_wiring_diag.pdf Getting correct coloured wiring in NZ is impossible unfortunately. I'm happy with mine, it's all nicely soldered, crimped and routed through the firewall tidily. I just hope it all works after all that trouble... my horn doesnt work any more...I must have damaged it with grit when I de-rusted then polished & sprayed (so much effort, wasted).
  7. Hi... I'm looking at the mess of wires under my car's dash and thinking "I can do better." Before I plunge in, would it be wise or stupid to use a Herald 13/60 wiring diagram as a guide? EG: http://herald-tips-tricks.wikidot.com/electricals:wiring-diagram-1360 Nothing wrong with the 1500 diagram but I just don't need all door courtesy lights, stereo, seatbelt warning buzzer, etc.. Cheers!
  8. A few months just to polish the body.....by hand....my god.. Beautiful result though!
  9. Sam


    Oh wait...i see you're in Aussie.. So everyone will just go "hey, you've used SV6 green" thus the uniqueness kind of compromised. Post up a high res pic of your car and I can photoshop it to any colours you want.
  10. Sam


    If you're going green........ The current range of Holden SV6 models has the BEST colour green!
  11. What a great clip! - and a great result, too. I think a lot of us grease monkeys have had an idea to do something like this, maybe even made a start at it, but the monumental amount of effort require is not to be underestimated.. so, thanks for actually getting it done!
  12. Hi folks, sorry to bump an old thread....(tho its a goodie) I'm thinking of picking these up for my 1500. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=490174686 Would love any advice or to know what questions to ask the seller? It turns out my SUs might be a bit small (1.25") and the Mikunis I have need quite a bit of $$$ to get them to a good working set.. So might be better/cheaper long term to go with Dellortos? Cheers!
  13. Thanks - great info. I will be going from a simplex to a duplex timing chain in the 1500, so just realised I can't use my old one If i can find a secondhand or stanpart one to suit in the next couple of weeks then i'll go with that, otherwise I may have to just risk it and change the tensioner more often.
  14. Hmm, interesting..Is there a way to test whether an original tensioner is still in good condition? I just assumed a new one would be better than an old one.
  15. To finish off the inner radius, I cut a long thin strip of sandpaper off of a beltsander, and used that to do the final shaping - you can really tug on it to flatten out the lumps.... it can be hard to get it smooth with tools poking in from each side. Your finished product looks very similar to mine - I think I removed a bit more material on the shoulders, and mine is a rougher finish on the inlets...but its a1500 head so a bit different anyways.. Is polishing the exhaust ports a good idea? It's not like the inlets where fuel has to atomise or anything.
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