hymodyne

I am using new non-vented discs at the moment, Can they be drilled? James

I haven't installed the hoses as of yet, but here are some pics of the set up. I moved the turn indicators to the front spoiler and used the turn signal locations as intakes for the ducting: james

I added the ductwork to the shields on my GT6, and let the availability of proper hoses dictate what size. I think I went with a 2" opening, so 50mm sounds good to me. James

switching from BBT to BCY needles has made a tremendous difference in performance. Many thanks to Mintylamb for his chart!! It has taken my car from something that is nice to look at, to something I can drive safely on the highway. Again many thanks for this resource and the assistance of folks on this site. Cheers, James

thanks Nick, I discovered I have long dahspot pistons instead of short ones. One short came with the carbs, but I went with the long ones. I've changed to two short pistons. I also found a vacuum line from the carbs to the dizzy that had a hole in it and replaced it. I'll see how it runs tomorrow. James

Spoke to Joe Curto a day or two ago, and he helped me iron out some carb issues. Unlike before, I can now maintain a steady, stable idle at around 1000 rpm, with HS6 carbs with velocity stacks and an airbox, a mild street cam, ported intake and stock exhaust. put in BAE needles and switched to ATF for dashpot oil, and the car will, as said, idle around 1000, and A/F reads around 13 to 14 at that speed, but as soon as I try to accelerate, the ratio enrichens dramatically and remains so until I am releasing pressure on the accelerator. On a 20 mile drive today, I stopped and leaned the mixture at the jets by turning them up about two flats before two full turns. this made the idle mixture read leaner, reading 17 consistently, but the adjustment meant that at road speeds and when accelerating, the mixture would remain around 11.3, instead of 10.2. With the mixture in this setting position, ten flats down, the car was prone to falter at idle, and would not maintain a low idle speed unless I was turned at least two full turns, usually 13 or 14 flats down. timing at 14 BTDC When I drive the car, pushing down on the accelerator is out of the question; she will shudder and falter, ratio gauge flashing all its lights and reading 10 until I release pressure on the accelerator. Parked, I can increase rpms smoothly, until about 4K, then the shuddering and overly rich mixture occurs again. The exhaust leaves you and your clothes smelling like, well, exhaust, so I know it is rich. Any suggestions would be appreciated, James

I have a MK III GT6 with a set of HS6 carbs. I have been able to get the air/fuel mixture right at idle, (bet. 13 and 14), but when I drive the car, starting from a full stop and acccelerating, and observe the readings, they are mainly in the overly rich (10.2) range, causing the gauge to flash all the mixture reading lights around the rim until I decellerate and settle in around 2500 rpms. I have BBT needles in these carbs. Using Mintylamb's chart, how do I select a needle set that will lean the mixture appropriately as the needles rise? James

just picked up the above at my NAPA parts distributor. screwed it in, so it fits, but its too cold to muck around out there and test it just yet . Thanks for the suggestions and input, James

It looks that way; Right now I am sourcing a switch with the same threaded portion and ball bearing input probe. I am considering shaving the threads off the new switch and pressing it into the old shank if a replacement cannot be found. james

I got an email from a fellow at Burton this morning, saying that I most likely had a reverse switch from a rocket gearbox.

The switches I have found that look similar to the one that I took out are from ford escorts, and Ford transit truck gearboxes. The new switch is too narrow, it slides in past the threads.

here is another attempt to post the picture;