rfarmery

Steve Thanks for the info about APT, without question they would be my #1 choice if they were not such a distance compared to Huffaker, i will take a trip over to see Huffaker in the coming weeks to get a feel for ther outfit. Actually Huffaker used to be right in town here but moved out to the old Sears point raceway some time ago.

Just been looking into the APT website and it seems they have the goods, not the cheapest in the world but as with anything you get exactly what you pay for... APT is only about 500 miles away so just a days drive for me. Even better wuth Huffaker, they are 10 minutes from the house,.

Curious as to peoples dealings/thoughts with Oselli, i am possibly in the market for a 1380 Fast road engine for a Midget and i simply cannot ignore the cost of an off the shelf Oselli engine, i'm based in the US and having someone modify my exisiting A-Series will cost a little more than buying and shipping from the UK. A freind did have a similar engine from them in the 80's and it was certainly a flyer.....

You are right about the body panels, certainly the most problematic part of the car, as long as the body is good then i feel it is a good bet.

Thanks Gerard, seems to be some good information, not sure about a 70K restoration though!!!!!!!!!!!!

I have the opportinuty to get hold of a 1973 Interceptor for little to no money, it's runs and drives but for what they are asking it will certainly need some work, i have always liked these cars and would certainly entertain getting one but really know very little about them, i know about the Chrysler engine and trans and being in the US parts for this should be straightforward, however i do not know if they posses any known problems. Can anyone let me know if they used to have 1 and what to look out for... thanks

30V V6 Passat

So why is the plug there if it is so dificult to access?, the only thing i can come up with is during the initial maching of the block at the factory. It seems to serve no purpose except to aid fluching the block out again if you have it machined again. My vote is to whack some JB Weld in there to close it off and make sure it does not leak. Anyone see any reason why i should not?

So i am breaking in the GT6 engine and am running a shade rich to keep the engine a little cooler but not so rich i'm washing out the bores. The question i have and i know there will be a lot of answers is when do i adjust to normal mixture settings? I was thinking after a couple of hundred miles but of course i may be way off here.

I too am having the same issue with the same plug, when the oil is hot i get a drip every 15-20 seconds so off comes the transmission again, this will be the 3rd time i have tried to fix it, this time it will be a permanent adhesive that goes in. I have used a the allen head steel plug and from what i could tell it is not a tapered fit but has a tapered shoulder that the plug sets into rather than tapered threads (pipe thread) My biggest problem is how to clean the threads of oil without sending cleaning agent into the block, also will the plug come back out after putting a light sealant on it last time? All answers with be forthcoming when i get the gearbox out of course.

Spent a while looking ther whole braking system over last night and certainly 1 of rear drums was out of adjustment, this brought the pedal up a lot higher and after a few more miles they werre beginning to get a little better, i think i'll just stick with it for the time being to see how much better they become.

Excessive effort is the problem i face. Anyone know of a good US supplier of these mintex pads?

Thanks for all the replies, the front pads are generic so nothing special, i will continue with them for the time being to see if they bed in which i hope they do, Dave's comment about being "modern" might also be very true, we are all used to stopping on a dime when we need to in our modern tin boxes....... I am based in Northern California Roy so might be a little far for me to travel, very much appreciate the offer though. i will make a few adjustments to the current set-up and let you know how it goes.

Hello So after nearly 3 years in the garage the GT6 took it's first steps on the road since the rebuild, the drive went pretty well all things considered, i do have a metallic clicking from the driveline that needs to be sourced and soplved but my main concern are the brakes, it's a Mk1 GT6 and they are terrible, i will say that all the linings are new so there will need to be a certain amount of bedding in to take place but they will have to significantly increase their effectiveness. As the pedal does not "pump up" i doubht there is much in the way of air in the system but will try bleeding just to cross it off the list of possibilities. So if all else fails i am thinking about a servo, does anyone have any experience with the lockheed kits both Canleys and Rimmer sell? Do they really come with everything you need and are they efective enough? i certainly appreciate any of your thoughts. Thanks Russell