Thomasmand

I use 6/4 mm ordinary nylon pneumatic tube, from Norgren. Cheap and works fine for me. / Thomas

Thanks Mark, So Newman 40-80 cam is more a 2L profile then? How about the 30-70, is it more equal to the TR5? I know the TR5 cam already but would like a bit more topend power if possibly. /Thomas

I need a new cam for my fastroad TR6, and after careful reading of Cam-threads on this forum, I have decided to buy a Newman one. But should I get the 30-70, 280� or the 40-80, 300� ? I want as much Ooomph as possible and favours the 300� but the car must be able to do occasionally town-traffic, so I don't want to overcam the engine. My setup will be: Slightly flowed head 10:1 Jaguar valvesprings Lucas PI 6-3-1 + bigbore exhaust Balanced bottom-end 1:3.7 diff Heard of the new GT cams, but I need the cam soon (summer is coming)(cool) By the way, can I buy the cam directly from Newman to (possibly?) save money, or do I need to buy through my local dealer? Are the standard Newman Chilled Iron Cam Followers any good? All suggestions will be very welcome Thomas

Thanks for reply, problems is solved: Faulty thermostat in evaporator caused compressor to turn off as soon as cold refrigerant arrived to evaporator. When fixed, the compressor runs continuous as it should. Found a leak in condenser causing system to be low on refrigerant allready. There should not be any bubbles if sufficient refrigerant in system. Gauges and vacuum was used during refil and service. Thomas

Just had my Rover 620 Si (Honda engine) in for aircon service, including a regas and paid well for it. But I dont think the system is working correctly. The air never gets colder than 10-12� C is that normal? When I turn on the aircon, the compressor (and fans) runs for about 5 sec and then turn off again for 10 sec and starts again 5sec and so on. Is it supposed to work this way? Shouldent the compressor be running all the time? When the compressor is running there is a lot of bubbles and "foam" in the sightglass, my aircon service guy tells me everything is ok, but is it? Best regards Thomas Gravesen

Thanks gt5r, didnt now that, cam goes in the bin then, no more questions. /Thomas

Think I will sand it lightly with emery cloth and keep an eye on no. 1 valve clearance. Surface of cam is not hardened in anyway i think, only followers? /Thomas

What happens if I run it, will it eat my follower in no time and make small metalparticles destroying the entire engine? Or is the worst thing that can happen that valve no. 1 stops opening after a while without damaging anything else? I´m very tempted to try fitting it... /Thomas

I have bought a almost new (sellers word) cam, but inspection after delivery shows that on lope no. 1 there is some scratching / scoring. See pics below. Rest of camshaft looks fine. Return to seller is unfortunately not an option, so what should I do: Use it as is, with new followers and hope for the best? Scrap it? Use the camshaft as a club and go see seller? > Or is it possibly to polish or grind it? Best regards Thomas Gravesen

http://www.racetorations.co.uk/

Hi GT, I bought your valuable book from Dave a month ago, and would sure like an update/service pack. Not sure how it works though : ; do you keep a file on everybody who has bought you book, or do you need a PM with my address? /Thomas

I know this is a not a Triumph question, but this forum seems to host the must car competent people on the net, so I give it a go anyway: My Rover 620 Si, (Non-turbo, Honda powered) has a small misfire and runs erratic at light throttle, e.g. driving at a constant 50-60 mph. Press the accelerator a little and the engine runs perfect. I can’t seem to find the cause of the misfire and am not even sure if it’s a ignition or fuel related problem! If anybody has got a idea what to look for, it would be much appreciated. Thomasmand

Hi Steve, have you checked the fit on both types of head yet? I found the gasket on remflex.com, but I'm still unsure if it will fit my early narrow port type TR6 head? I run a long SS header that really expands/warps, so I have to change gasket and reface the flange sometimes once a month when the blowby gets to much. This type of gasket could be really nice if it works. Thomas

I would lasercut the plate with this Precision needed. I use lasercutting alot at work, and it would cost less than 3£ to cut. You need a DXF-cad drawing of the chopper disc, but I can easily make that for you if you provide a drawing with meassurements in paper. I don't know munch about prices in UK, but i guess you should be able to have it cut for less than 10£ when you bring the DXF-file to your local lasercutter. /Thomas

M22x1.5 it is, Thanks Royboy. I had tried to meassure it and found 13/16"-20 UNEF to be the closest, but never thought of trying metric sizes : The adjustable revotec thing sounds nice, but i'm on a tight budget so i try with the 5.5£ i already bought. BTW I got the numbers mixed up, the one i have is a "IM50090" : 86/81°, that might work in my hot climate? (global warming ...)