popeye

Good eveneing Gentlemen I am looking after a pair of GT6 MKII seat frames. Not the MKI seats. I have added a picture: If they are MKII: there are the side bars on each side of the back of the seat and one bar along one side (right for driver/left for pasenger) of the seat base (red areas on the GT6 MKII picture). The side bars are welded to the frame thanks to rectangular plates. May you help to source them ? : or give me some contacts ? : Thanks a lot by advance

Hi everybody, I am looking after a pair of GT6 MKII seat runners (not MKI or spit): May you help me? Do you have a pair in good condition? :-/ :-/ They are the same as the pictures I join MAny thanks by advance for your help. :)

Hi Frederic, Yes to compare the inlet valve size will allow to kow what the optimal inlet diameter is. Kas Kastner used 36.5 on a tkc1155. In an old article: Peter Burgess explained it was useless to go bigger 36.5 Nevertheless: some bigger valve are available. Why ?

Hi john, I though to use something like Matt (sorry to have stolen your pic MATT :B but you roll bar is great). What do you think of it?

HI Neil, I have a prepared head: the basis a MKIII head. The chamber were reshaped, the ports and the valve are the MKIV size. The inlet valves are very thin as the Peter Burgess website: but I don't where they come from. For your test: I can removed one of the inlet valve send it to you. But of course, you will have to send it back to me in France. If you are agree: you can contact me by mail to let me know your adress. Hi Frederic, I am not a specialist about the way to modified a cylinder head. But I remember GT told the best valve size was the MKIV (similar to the TR6) engine. In an old Leyland race manual: the race head used the 36.5 valve too. For the same port modification: I think to test the MKIV valve will show if it is usefull to fit bigger than 36.5 or if too large valve will flow less... is it a stupid idea : I join a picture of combustion chamber of my cylinder head as it is a 1300 head: the chambers are far less deeper than a TKC1155. It might modify the flow too. All the comments are welcome

Thanks John, George, I can not use a roll cage: the car is a road car. I will use a roll bar similar as the one used by Matt. As the car need a total rebuilt :'(: it is a good time to do extra welding. I am quite like you George: I am an old romantic ... even if the car is no perfect: I like it for her good point and bad point :K). As the chassis is a very late one I guess it should be stiffer: as dave has been told by an ex-TRIUMPH employee

Hi Neil, Here is just a suggestion. Before the fitting and test the big 37.5 valve, it should be interesting to test the large MKIV inlet valve: 36.5. :X I often read bigger valve than the large MKIV was useless and flowed less. I am not a professional: but someone like you, Neil, is able to tell us if it is a good point (or no) to fit bigger valve than 36.5. : : At last: congratulations for your job 8) 8)

HI, Many many thanks Steve for the pictures. ;) Many thanks John for the comment: yes, I saw the cage inside the car. It would be not easy to build the new crossmember: due to the propshaft, handbrake cables and brackets. The chassis flexes at points where nothing left can be done. In the middle under the body: What do you think about to weld extra plates all along each crossmember. : : Concerning the new crossmember at the rear: I am sure something like the one behind the gearbox in a "U" shape could be made. What is your point of view?

Hi, It seems there is a problem to read the document by John Thomason: it doesn'twork. Someone has a copy of the article? MAny thanks by advance

Thanks a lot Fred and Dave. Good news Dave: the car is a late 1500 its first registration is 03/1981, so a very late one. ;)

GREAT GREAT! 8) Thanks a lot for all this help ! ;) I haven't seen this thread :B :B I will have a look tonight when I will be back home. I didn't know the flexe area is in the middle ! Many MAny thanks again :

Hello to all of you and happy new year ! :D Here is my first question 2010 ... :B I am after informations, photos or documents to explain to me how reinforce my 1500chassis. The 1500 chassis have a weak point at the front due to the recess area to allow the fitting of the exhaust. Where and how some extra welding, reinforcement can be made ? Does anybody have a clue or better: has ever done it? I don't remember where I have ever read the very late chassis were thicker and more rigid: is it true? It might be a silly question :B :X :X ??) but it is done :-/ :-/ MAny thanks for your help. SOmepictures of Le mans spitfure chassis are welcome too ;)

It is so rare :'(, so fast , so expensive :'( :'(but ....so beautiful :o: I am a fan of ELAN car specially the 26R types but I am totally in love with the Ian Walker lotus with W&P bodywork :K) :K) :K) :K) :K) :K) and ...... :K) :K) :K) :K) No chance Santa comes at home with one of the two still alive :'( :'( :'( Merry Christmas to all of you

HI Rob, It is kind of you to tell me my english is better: From myn own side, I am not really sure. Concerning LEMANS: of course, my friend !!! It will be a real pleasure to see you again and the gorgeous GT6. I will be happy to meet some people of the forum too !! Thanks for JIGSAW Frederick

Many thanks for your help: super fast news !! :) I might have a correct spitfire rack: the car is a late 1500 and I am the second owner since new. The car was totally standard since it was bought new. Before I remove it from the car: how can I be sure it is a 6 or a 7 tooth pinion ? Dave and Nick: Thanks a lot for warning about the UJ. I didn't know a new one would be better. I know there are very low quality alloy mounting brackets. GT said some are dangerous. Where can I find a safe one ?

Hi to all of you. I passed the CT for my car: it is similar to the MOT in England. The car need a present for Christmas ;D It seems my steering rack is very worn to one end :-/. I checked the price of the different parts to rebuild it: it is not cheap and as expensive as a new one. Here are my questions: - I could have a nice price on a quick steering rack. Is it an interesting modification :? is it really a benefit or a waiste of money ? and an important fact for me: is it a period (70's) accessory ? Made for Elan ? I checked the old catalogs I have and I only found quick racks for DOLOMITE, nothing for Spitfire, GT6 - Whart are the differences between GT6 and Spit rack ? Does anyone use a quick rack on his spit ? Many thanks for you comments and feedbacks

Well done Matt: it looks very good !!! the shape of the bow is nice ! Thanks Dave for the informations concerning the Elan air box: As I have very short manifolds, I thought it will fit OK. Do you know the dimensions of the Lotus box ?

Matt, they come through flebay quite often, but I agree with you it is not cheap for a complete unit. Have a look on the paul matty website, (tony thompson, dave bean, christopher neil ...) Here are the reference and price - backplate: LABB036: 65£ - airbox: LABC026:S1/S2/S3: 58£ - airbox: LABC036A: S4: 39£ Sometimes on flebay, the backplate ended at reasonnable price (far less than the 65£) I have got a pair of weber from an Elan Baby and I think I will try to find a used Elan airbox (or atleast the backplate). It might usefull to know some second hand lotus parts suppliers: perhaps a deal could be made.

HI Matt, Before you start the job, I have just a suggestion: I am pretty sure the square air box from a baby Elan or a cortina Lotus would fit right. It would be nice to find its dimensions: of course that will depend of your manifolds. It will be more easier with the short type than the long type. Here are some pics: hope it will help.

Thanks a lot Gerard ! ;)

HI Nick, I am sorry for the car :'( :'( She didn't see you ... because of a reverse... ... and a make up in the sametime and give a calll. Unfortunatly the damages are not to important. Hope the frame in intact. In few weeks it will be a bad memory. I hope you will find a gentle bodyshop.

Hi, Many thanks to all for your help and informations: the 3.89 will be the next parts to source. I have been quite busy on the car these days, it was time to do something for the engine :K): more than 323 000km at the clock (75 000 when I bought her). :B :B I change the pistons rings (std size), clean, check the pistons for the grooves, bore size and wear. lightly honed the cylinders bore I change the con-rods bearings (even if the old ones were still good) I clean, check and re-surface the iol pump I clean the oil sump I have completely clean the cylinder head, the valves ... I was lucky: all the parts were close with the tolerances of the workshop manual. :D What is the quality of the new gears sale by Canley, Rimmer ? ... I am quite afraid it is cheap quality and I wonder if it would not be better to find a good used crown and pinion. I tought I have find a NOS set but the seller didn't know what he got: in fact it was a 3.63: not lucky fore this time ... :'(

HI Mattius, Of course it depends of the condition of your original ones ; but with times, I learn a good used parts is often better than a crap one. Do you still have yours ? Mine are on the car since it had been build (since 1981): of course they don't seem new but i Think there are still better than "China parts".

Super !! :) A lot of infos here ! Gerard: you really know the land of moules-frites ! ;D ;D It will be a J type OD. It seems the 3.89 is a good modification: with a good cruising speed and a car much more responsive. Many thanks to all: Nick, Frederik, Sparky, Gerard for your help and advices. I think I will go this final drive.

Super !! :) A lot of infos here ! Gerard: you really know the land of moules-frites ! ;D ;D I have considered the 3.89 for an a