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Interesting how much contradictory information is on the web regards fixing Spit/GT-6 bump-steer! I've combed through post until my eyes bleed. Hoping folk on this site have it sorted properly. Found exactly ONE link that seemed to go into real detail, then lost it. As I recall the gist of it was to; A. Shorten the rack, THE key to success. B. Move the rack back and up. C. Lower the suspension. Since I have a spare rack I can do "A" but would like to know how much to shorten it. Which may be complicated by my fitting a Buick V6 engine and T5 trans which requires moving the rack if I can. "B" creates a problem as I need all the space I can get for crank pulley clearance. In fact I need to be able to move the rack FORWARD if possible. I will be using 14" rims so have a little extra room around the spindle area. I have seen post recommending bending the steering arms for better geometry. They are BOLTED on! I have metal working equipment, it seems better to me to just create new arms of the proper length and height. I'm thinking a tad longer and set the ball-joint height and off-set correctly. Have to wonder why this has not been done already by some performance parts company? It seems I should be able to make a set to work with a relocated rack, just need some help with the geometry. "C", I wish the rest were so simple! A prior owner fit inordinately long 13" springs, my car sat on the lower bump stop at all times, nose in the air even with extra weight. So just fitting a set of Spitfire springs will be a big temporary improvement until I can figure the correct rate for new springs. Even with the springs out to be able to move the suspension through it's vertical range I see undesirable positive camber at the planned ride height. So it looks like modified upper arms will be mandatory unless the lower can be spaced out? No limitations beyond my being ¢heap, as I'm not entering any races with any sort of rules on suspension. Would like to do the local Virginia City hill climb and maybe the Silver State Challenge open road event. It will mostly just be my personal rapid transit GT car. Solid thinking suggestions or links please.

Hi all, Here is my Spitfire 1500 from 1978. It's been my daily car for over a year now, restored it between june 2011 and Sept 2013. Done 15.000 miles in a year (sept 2013 to Sept 2014 ) ! Done a lot of oldtimer drives & meetings with other classics and Triumphs I'm also a member of Club Triumph , i'm in the fb group of spitfire & on young guns classics (so some will know this car a bit ! ) Front chassis beam was rotten, so replaced that. has gas struts on the bonnet, revolution wheels, new interior, extra volt & oil pressure gauge.... and many more little mods Here are some before, during the resto and after pics !

I'm putting a Buick 225 into a Triumph GT6+. If that engine dies I have a Buick 231 to replace it with. I have an ex-Camaro T5 sitting in place now but it's a bit large as I cannot take TOO much out of the narrow frame rails. I also have a Merkur T9 box which would be much easier to fit into the available space. The Merkur was a 2.3 turbo car, HP was similar to the Buick V6 but I doubt it had the same torque. T9 boxes are rare in the U.S. so no one here appears to know much of anything about them. How strong are the T9's from a practical point? My Buick V6 could be considered interchangeable with a Rover 3.5 or 3.8 for HP and torque. Do T9 boxes survive behind Rover engines in light cars? Not intending any drag racing, more a fast road/track day car.

May as well throw this out there while I'm redesigning the Trick-6 suspension. 225" Buick V6 engine and T5 five speed OD trans. The original real diff was taken before I got the car and would never work anyway. Original rear leaf spring is gone and not missed, expecting to use coil-overs. Being a +/Mk. III it had the roto-flex couplings. I need to create an entirely new rear suspension. Thinking of using Merkur XR4TI as it's fairly available and has the correct 4x108 PCD for my 14"x6" Enkei wheels. Anyone ever fit the Merkur/Sierra rear to a GT6? It's about 8" too wide in stock form. Would also want to upgrade it to rear disc brakes. Scrap everything from the original rear, or just the diff and axles? Would like to keep as much as possible "Off the shelf". I see lots of post on using Subaru diff's, why not the Ford? I can also readily get Ford T-bird 8.8" diff's but they are pretty large and more than I need for a V6.

Hi all, My beloved steve is currently off the road due to a slight knocking at idle (really isn't too bad but I'd rather take care of it than run it to destruction). Ive put this down to the fact that since I've had the car I've not tinkered with anything within the block just cylinder head; water pump replacement etc so there's bound to be a fair amount of wear seeing as I've had the car 2 years now and I have no record of when they were last done, if at all! So I'm just after a little advice really, Rimmer Bros page has so many I don't know what I should looking at ordering: http://www.rimmerbro...m--i-GRID007969 If anyone could shed some light on overhauling the bottom end of the engine somewhat ie things I will need would be really helpful as I'm a little lost. I presume you need to measure the crank for the correct size shells but I'm only guessing. Any help appreciated!

I've just found a couple of things on the net about using a M45 Eaton supercharger on a Triumph Spitfire. Just wondering really if anyone had had any experience doing this? I really like the sound of superchargers and it would make my GT6 a little more unique but its whether it would be worth doing. The engine is a standard 2 litre straight 6 but its off the road at the moment and ready for a bit of work to be done!

So, what are the best ways to secure my Spitfire a little better? I'm thinking of getting a battery isolator switch, and a steering wheel lock for peace of mind. Is there anything out there that's specifically recocomended, or even anything I've not thought of? Similarly, anyone know if these thigns will affect insurance much?

I'm looking to squeeze some more power out of my GT6 via injection or better carbs etc but before i do i was wondering if anyone had got trouble with the diff by doing so? I know that its never been very well praised so i'd like an idea of how much I can put through it or alternatives I could swap it for...

Hello all! I'm Sam, and as you might have guessed I'm a Spitfire 1500 owner: I bought it a year ago and I've loved every minute of it. I really love the feeling classics give you when driving, how well connected they are to the driver. I also run Unlimited Mileage, a car and classic car website, with my brother.