Darren Groves

Hi Nick, Thanks for the info. The fuel rail come from Trigger Wheels: http://trigger-wheels.com/store/contents/en-uk/p192.html looks to be the same as the one you mention. If I read this right a 'Dash' is 1/16", so Dash 6 = 3/8" but the bore for the rail is described as 0.500" which is Dash 8 or am I missing something? I guess I was thinking of one of these either end: http://www.viperperformance.co.uk/fuel-hose-fittings-and-separators_10109_an-to-anmale-adaptorsstraight-couplers.html then these: http://www.viperperformance.co.uk/fuel-hose-fittings-and-separators_9954_90-anglepush-on-hose-fittings.html but I'm struggling to get my head round which sizes I'll need for each. Or is there a better way of doing it. Cheers Darren

Need to get the fuel rail drilled for the injectors, presumably they need the step for more secure seating. What are the 2 ID measurements so I can pass onto the guy that is doing it, I've seen a variety of suggestions. I'll be using standard Bosch injectors. The rail has an internal bore diameter of 1/2", any recommendations on end fittings for fuel line connections? Thanks Darren

Thanks Nick, Quite fancy the mini-filter idea, might go that route. Darren

So things are moving along again with the EFI Conversion of my trusty 13/60 Herald, the Inlet manifold is almost there, just need to weld on the injector bungs and a take off to connect up the IAC Valve. On the IAC valve I'm using the inlet & outlet connections are around 22mm, the Rover TB I have has 2 connections one of 12mm the other of 15mm on the filter side, so how is the best way to connect all this together? Do I just blank off the connections on the TB and fabricate 22mm connections before and after, or use a reducer to connect to one of the TB connections? Just wondering how it's been done by others before I make a decision. Thanks

Thanks for all the help, I'm sure it's more to do my skills with electronics why it didn't work, but decided I'd spent enough time on it. I've been meaning to send off my Speedo for calibration for ages so seemed the simplest option, it's only money after all!

I tried your set-up Nick, but it didn't work for me. Done it twice just in case, but nothing at all. So I have taken the easy (read expensive) option and sent the rev counter off to Speedy Cables for them to convert. I was sending them my Speedo to be re-calibrated anyway, so just bit the bullet. At least combining the 2 gauges saved some postage....

Hi Nick, You won't be surprised to hear that neither of the fixes that suggested adding resistors actually worked. I've identified the bits I need for you fix except the Variable Resistors, so if you have them great, if not maybe you could identify them online for me. Still could only find potentiometers even on the suppliers you recommended. Thanks for the help Darren

I went into my (not so) local Maplin's today to buy the various bits and bobs for the suggested fixes and came away with very little. The young lad who served me knew less about resistors & diodes than me so went he ask his boss, he was too busy looking important to help. Anyway, so will source elsewhere, should have done that in the first place. Nick, in your diagram there are 2 variable resistors. Is a variable resistor the same as a potentiometer (they are according to Maplin and this is what tends to come up if you do a search) and if so I assume you can vary the resistance, so how do you know what to set it to? Also these seem to be 3 pin and not 2 pin/inline as per the diagram suggests. Any pointers gratefully received. Darren

I had a response from Trigger Wheels who supplied the tacho driver, they suggested a 10k Resistor. One more thing to try I guess.

Thanks for the replies, that makes it a little clearer. I think I will try as follows, purely based on the simplicity of the task. 1. Try the pull up resistor as per Speedy Cables 2. Try the coil driven/3 diode option but with a lower voltage zener diode 3. Try the amplifier as per Nick's diagram I'll report back....

Hi Nick, Waiting for a response from Trigger Wheels. I'm pretty sure it's an equivalent of the set-up in the Megamanual I spliced it in and soldered into the (-) side of each coil and onto the tacho. Visibly the connections are good but I can re-do them just to be sure. Are you saying this isn't an amplifier, if not is there a diagram of this set-up I could follow? If an amplifier is different, would it be better using the tacho out on the ECU/EDIS or as an addition to tacho driver I've just fitted. I have to admit that my understanding of resistors, diodes and the like is severely limited. Is a pull up resistor just the same as a regular resistor, the guy at Maplin said it was so was going to pop in Sunday a get a couple. It's worth trying at least given how cheap they are. Do the resistors have to be fitted in a particular direction or is it not critical. Darren

Thought I'd contact Speedy Cables to see if they have helped with this before, this was their reply: The output from the Megasquirt is open collector, a pull up resistor (2.2K ohms) is recommended and should be available from Maplin, and should help with your problem. RVI Tachos and some of the older RVC tachos would need to be converted internally to work with your system and we can offer this service, the cost is £80 plus carriage (£12 to a UK address) and VAT (20%) Thought their response might be useful for anyone else having this issue. I'll try the 220k ohms resistor to see what happens. The conversion will be an absolute last resort, but may come to that!

I'll take that back. When it's working it's accurate, but it's not working 50% of the time, so keeps pinging from zero to correct rpm to zero etc. More investigation needed....

Rev Counter working again.

Putting the correct values into the base ignition settings didn't help, the timing reading on the gauges was odd. The original firmware was MSExtra v3.2.1, so I put that back, imported my timing map and tune file and everything was good again, so I shall leave that alone! That meant the Rev Counter was reading very low as before, despite finding the tacho output option as turning it to on, but in the post today arrived this from Trigger Wheels, so will fit this this evening if I get a chance.

Thanks Nick, this is is the similar page for Microsquirt http://www.useasydocs.com/details/EDIS.htm which I had read a couple of times, had I managed to read to all the way to the bottom I may have found the answer myself :-) I'll make the changes and see what happens, hopefully that's all that's needed. Trigger Wheels sent me the original firmware and tune files, so I can go back to how it was out of the box if needed.

Couldn't find an edit button, but also meant to say I was curious about the Trigger Wheel valuea in the Advanced Ignition Options, should it be 0?

The Firmware that came with the ECU was v3.2.1 (Beta), so I updated to v3.830 which is the latest version, I then received lots of errors when connecting back to the ECU. So, I then read that for more basic applications v2.9xx was recommended here: http://www.useasydocs.com/details/usv3code.htm, so went through the process again. So I set the ECU Type to Microsquirt, reloaded the ignition map and fired her up. First of all in the gauge cluster I had no RPM or Timing readings and in the Spark Advance Table all it was reading was from the MAP sensor. I went into the basic ignition settings and changed the Coil Charging Scheme to EDIS, tried again and now the RPM displays fine, and in the Spark Advance Table that alllooks fine, but the Ignition Advance on the gauge cluster seems to be showing some random readings, either that or I'm missing something This is a video from before the firmware update: https://youtu.be/hrmQO2LATJw This is a video from after: https://youtu.be/CVn1rcQxfyk Oh, and the Smiths Rev Counter now doesn't work at all! Not sure if this has helped or not... Here's a couple of images from the ignition settings.

Just spotted the + on the injectors I have, many thanks.

Does it matter which way round the respective 2 wires go to the CLT, IAT sensors and Injectors?

Not sure..... Won't get a chance to check/update now for a few days, but will try an update.

Thanks Nick, Just to rule out a software setting, is there a tach out setting in Tunerstudio. I found mention of it on a search, but I couldn't find it on any of the menu options. Presumably the tacho driver that Trigger Wheels sells is an amplifier like your schematic. Darren

Well, no luck with using pin 11 on the EDIS no reading at all, so went back to the Tacho Out from the MS. I'm now thinking that the tach out maybe set to half speed, but I cannot find where to look at the settings in Tunerstudio. Can anyone point me in the right direction? Darren

Hi Nick, Thanks for the reply and links. Pin 35 on the Microsquirt is a Tacho Out. At <1000rpm it seems to work fine, but when the revs get to around 1200 it just hits a ceiling and stops there. Will see if I can drill a hole in the EDIS connector to access Pin 11. Darren

I've removed the Megajolt and now have the Microsquirt just doing the ignition, all fine: https://youtu.be/hrmQO2LATJw The only minor issue is the rev counter. It's a Smiths RVC type and worked fine using the tacho out on the MJ, but if I use the tacho out on the MS I do get a reading, but way lower than what the engine is actually doing. I have read that you can use either Pin 2 or 11 from the EDIS, however Pin 2 doesn't work and Pin 11 isn't populated on my EDIS connector, so can't try that. Trigger Wheels sell a Tacho Driver http://trigger-wheels.com/store/contents/en-uk/p129.html but before I order one, is there anything else i can try? Darren