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Recent Posts
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https://www.jamespaddock.co.uk/rear-trunion-bush-kit-axle-set-polyurethane -
By Nick Jones · Posted
Yes, that seems unreasonably expensive. Especially since they are not even claiming that the crush tubes are stainless steel - which is fairly important in my view. As I understand it, what is supposed to happen is that the bolt is tightened up hard against the crush tube and the nylon (or polyurethane) bushes rotate on the crush tube. Where the shields are fitted the inner ones move with the bearing housing and the outer ones with the VL. In my experience, achieving this is challenging even with OE parts, as the tolerancing was always somewhat variable/optimistic, so often everything just locks up solid when the bolt is properly tightened. The standard pattern trunnion kits currently available that I’ve are worse (front and back!), which is why I’ve tended to use the Superflex poly ones on the fronts as they do seem to work ok and last well. No recent experience of the swing axle rears, (though Bella is due for some attention in that area….. ) -
Seen these, but more than I want to pay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256928963767 Have I got this right. On the original set up, top hats, tube and the 4 tin disks and rubber seal, the tube is clamped tight between the verticle link once the bolt is tightened, the outer tin washer moves with the verticle link, and the bolt rotates inside the still tube? The top hats in this repro kit, are not a very tight fit, easily pushed in by hand and have a good chance of rotating. I seem to remember having to press the top hats in with a vice, and held in even tighter once the spacer tube was pressed in. -
Thanks all for the suggestions. It's running well enough for the auto tune to do it's thing. Interestingly the electrical gremlins don't seem to be affecting the speeduino. Upping the fuel pressure, using the calculated target AFR and VE tables, and setting to TPS have meant that it now runs well. VE tables were some way out. VE table after about 10 mins of auto tune driving below for inspection. Electrical gremlins are interesting. Still getting intermittant rev counter and oil pressure light on most of the time. I'm getting 0.3V drop with headlights on/off, which is enough to hear a change in tone of the high pressure fuel pump, so I'm pretty sure the electrical system is now running as hard as it ever has and it probably marginal. I'll do a proper measure of all the pulleys as I have a bit of a mishmash of items. ican't remember what pulley sizes I'm running, definitley a mk3 crank pulley, but possibly an alternator pulley designed for a mk4, so I might be spinning it a bit slow at idle. A datalog will tell me the answer. I'll see how it pans out, but maybe changing the high pressure fuel pump to one rated for less than 8 times the HP I'll ever see would solve the problem! That or possibly just upgrade to one of the alternators @rogerguzzi posted recently. -
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By Nick Jones · Posted
Was going to suggest the Superflex trunnion kits, which have stainless steel crush tubes and don’t need those daft sealing washers….. but can only find them as part of expensive kits…. -
By Escadrille Ecosse · Posted
I have a genuine Record No.3 vise of unknown antiquity that I acquired via my dad when they were refurbishing a school in Edinburgh. Like I say, not sure of the age but I suspect sometime between the 50s and 70s. Done me excellent service over the 30+ years of hard use in my care and the jaws were very definitely getting the worse for wear so I got to looking for a new set. Most searches come up with vices now marketed as Irwin Record and made in China, however I did eventually find something claiming to be UK made. New and crisp vs old and very un-crisp. Good as new once more These are the folks, spares and refurbished originals -
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Driveshafts finally back together, both good with no play. I'd been waiting for new hub nuts that had been missing in the kits. As I bought better quality bearings I never used the ones in the kit, only requiring the seals and hub nuts. I was going to fit the vertical links to the bearing housing, but surprise, surprise, the washers supplied in the new repro bush kits are to thick to fit between the vertical link/bearing housing. The originals are almost half the thickness. The seal that is sandwiched between the two halves in the kit is an O ring, where the originals are flat rubber bands. I know this is not a new problem, as I remember the same issue years ago but assumed it had been rectified by now. I'll have to look at different suppliers to see If I can find some closer to the original design and dimensions.
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