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Posted

Yes, I use Harland Sharp in the GT6. Bushes went after not so long. They replaced under warranty. But they advised to use a hardened shaft. Since that no issue. 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

For now we decided just to replace the shaft. Using a micrometer, I measured the rocker and pedestal bores and all were well within spec. As you'd expect, the shaft wasn't.

The tuftrided version from Moss is right on the thicker end of the tolerance so gives a very good fit. It took a lot of prep though, quite a bit of black crud came out from inside the bore once I'd removed the plugs. I first sprayed degreaser from an air fed paraffin gun, used some garden wire to get at the small bits of stuck crud and then finally cleaned it off with naptha when finished again from the air fed gun. I also polished up the shaft a bit before final cleaning.

The pedestals took some getting back on, I used the jig I made to remove them which was a very sophisticated piece of 2 inch thick softwood with a 15mm hole drilled in it for hammering the shaft. Once everything was assembled and spacing tweaked, I filled the shaft with clean oil before replacing the last plug. To be safe i installed these with blue loctite, same for the pedestal screw.

Now getting oil dribbling from all rockers even when cold, so I'd say that's a job well done. Need to sort the gauges and fit a new inertia switch before we can give it a good drive again though, so no idea if the oil pressure is any different.

IMG-20231001-WA0000.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Fixed the temp and fuel gauges. In the end it turned out the needles had just got bent when I had them apart to remove the blue light filters. So the needles were sticking badly and didnt want to move, causing erratic operation.

Finicky little things aren't they. I confirmed they worked by checking voltages, firing them up and shorting the sender terminals to ground.

Edited by RichardB

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