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TR5/6 Plenum.


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Hi,

 Is there any reason that I can not shorten the plenum so the the rubber 90 degree intake hose is closer to cylinder #1 intake?
I need more clearance for top radiator hose?

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Cheers,

Iain.

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Bend the route of the hoses more so that it clears the plenum.   90 degree angle hose on thermostat housing, ditto on rad inlet, another 90 behind the top rad tank, straight connectors.

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Hi,

top hose fits ok, same as bottom. Spring loaded hose is great.

Still need to fix rad down, change the way to wee expansion tank for a bigger type. Need to put £70 in as fuel low. Need to wire the cheap fan to boom rad switch. But, off to work in it. carrying enough spares and water.

Cheers,

Iain

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Hi,

 Top hose needs to be very tight.
80W fan fitted for return home. A SPAL it is not. Its about 48 Watts, so car will boil with spirited driving.

I think I can find a SPAL to fit in place.

Cheers,

Iain

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Hi Nick,
 you are correct.
 

When I am on the motorway at high speed (70mph) coolant is around 70c. When the vehicle slows down or stops, that is when it spews it's ring. Small expansion bottle does not help.

With one 9" Spal fan controlled from the 22mm bottom mounted fan switch & heater blower fan on, it slowly cools from 100c.
I need to modify the cowling as water pump nose fouls the 2nd fan. Two Spal's should do it. 

Cheers,

Iain.

I data logged my trip to work with kak fan. pt1.xls below.

 

pt1.xls

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Ian, you quoted running temps are anomalous.     Engines run with coolant at MORE than 100C for efficiency (the higher the temp the greater the efficiency, but  these are jet engines and a compromise must be made!).  This is why the coolant system is pressurised and the rad cap has a spring loaded valve.     I'd suggest you have air in the system that needs purging.

John

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21 minutes ago, JohnD said:

I'd suggest you have air in the system that needs purging.

Agree this needs checking. When running with a separate header tank there is a really big advantage to taking a vent pipe from the highest point in the system (typically the thermostat housing) to the top of the header tank. That way it will self-bleed. It doesn’t need to be more than 8mm.  I see you have a pipe from the top of the rad but I can’t see how far below the thermostat housing it is.

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11 hours ago, JohnD said:

Ian, you quoted running temps are anomalous.     Engines run with coolant at MORE than 100C for efficiency (the higher the temp the greater the efficiency, but  these are jet engines and a compromise must be made!).  This is why the coolant system is pressurised and the rad cap has a spring loaded valve.     I'd suggest you have air in the system that needs purging.

John

Greetings John,

 are you thinking the readings from the sensor are uncalibrated OR that the readings are correct but the results are not normal?
Or another reason?

Cheers,

Iain.

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11 hours ago, Nick Jones said:

Agree this needs checking. When running with a separate header tank there is a really big advantage to taking a vent pipe from the highest point in the system (typically the thermostat housing) to the top of the header tank. That way it will self-bleed. It doesn’t need to be more than 8mm.  I see you have a pipe from the top of the rad but I can’t see how far below the thermostat housing it is.

Greetings Nick,

I have an Auto-Bleed on the thermostat-housing. Picture shows with element removed so I can manually bleed air.

My 6mm? ID goes to the highest point of the system and intersects the highest point of the system (thermostat-housing). The highest point is top of heater hose between head and matrix input.
There lies the problem I believe.

I can fill the expansion tank to same level as top of the thermostat-housing. But the air volume in the tank is way to small; As soon as the liquid expands it blows the radiator cap & takes more coolant than necessary. Now coolant is too low & it gets worse?

I think the root cause is nowhere for the coolant to expand?
That's what I think. I have three types of thank bought over the last three years & never fitted.

Cooling system seems fine to me as reported temperature under stat is sometimes lower than stamped value at 82c when going faster than 40. Probably much higher in head? Pressure cap is 2.3Bara. System should be good for 126c. I assume the Cylinder head pressure & boiling point is much higher due to the restriction of the Stat?

Cheers,

Iain.

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1 hour ago, spitfire6 said:

Greetings John,

 are you thinking the readings from the sensor are uncalibrated OR that the readings are correct but the results are not normal?
Or another reason?

Cheers,

Iain.

Both, Iain !

Temperature sensors are notoriously poor quality these days.   I always calibrate mine, by suspending a new one in a water bath on my camp stove and heating it from room to boiling water temp.   Not as hot as it will get in use, but gives you the slope of the response.    You may measure the resistance of the sensor with a multimeter, or else just observe the reading on the temp gauge.   This is the sort of thing you will see:   the purple line is what it should do. but sad to say, even a new sensor may not do so.

But 70C if true is too cool for normal running.   You pressurised system should allow the coolant to run at about 112C.

 

John

 

Temp.sensor responses.jpg

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46 minutes ago, JohnD said:

Both, Iain !

Temperature sensors are notoriously poor quality these days.   I always calibrate mine, by suspending a new one in a water bath on my camp stove and heating it from room to boiling water temp.   Not as hot as it will get in use, but gives you the slope of the response.    You may measure the resistance of the sensor with a multimeter, or else just observe the reading on the temp gauge.   This is the sort of thing you will see:   the purple line is what it should do. but sad to say, even a new sensor may not do so.

But 70C if true is too cool for normal running.   You pressurised system should allow the coolant to run at about 112C.

 

John

 

Temp.sensor responses.jpg

Hi John,

No.1 looks funky. NTC to PTC above 80. KR looks a different range?

Its possible the GM CLT thermistor is wacky, it is 10 years old at least and never checked.

My pressure cap allows 126c as its 20psi. Thermostat is 82c as had loads and ran out of 88c. Will get an 88c.

Cheers,

Iain.

 

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HI,
Moving from small volume 20psig to large 15psig vented system appears to to have prevented dumping of coolant @ >100c.
Coolant temperature still too cool @ motorway speed as I still need to fit 88c thermostat.
Coolant temperature still needs controlling by more amps of cooling though. Hose routes need cleaning. Later.

Cheers,

Iain.

 

 

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