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Removal and replacement of Stromberg CD175 metering needle adjusting screw star washer


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Finally getting around to sorting out the loss of oil from the Carb dashpots on the Stag.
Clearly I need to replace the little o-ring on each of the needle adjusting screws. Looking around on the web it seems reasonably straight forward, except for the removal and replacement of the star washer that holds the adjusting screw in place.
I've asked the question via the Stag Owners forum, and received some good advice on the task, but there doesn't seem to be a way to remove the washer without risking scoring the bore of the tube in which the assembly sits? Is there a special tool and/or technique that anyone here knows of or has used in the past to avoid this risk on both removal and replacement?
Thanks.

Rod

Edited by Rod1883
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Thanks for that Nick.

Someone on the Stag forum did send me part of the info on that link - it's great to see it all. I will study carefully........

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  • 1 month later...

The job is done, although I haven't been able to take the car for a run since to check all works as our drive is currently dug up and being replaced! It'll be another week.
The link above was great, thanks, as was some other stuff found via web searches.
I found one piece of advice on a MG forum that provided a great tip for removing the star washer - Alternative Zenith Carb Damper O-Ring Replacement : How-To Library : The MG Experience
Essentially it is to knock the adjusting screw assembly and washer up the tube just enough to then be able to get a small hooked piece of wire around the washer and flip it. I did this on both carbs and the washer just fell out. Replacement is similar - drop the washer in, shake the air valve a little to get the washer more or less in the correct orientation, and then tap home. I couldn't find a suitable wooden dowel for the job - but an unsharpened pencil (i.e. still squared off at both ends) did the job.
I purchased new needle adjusting screws and incorporated o-ring from Southern Carburetters in Crawley, rather than trying to fit a new o-ring on the old screw. The advice from Roy at SC in Crawley was that the screws are often "mullered" in getting them out - although mine was fine using the above technique to remove it.

Hopefully this might help anyone else with a similar issue....

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