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1 hour ago, rogerguzzi said:

Hello Ian

                Here you go if you have deep pockets!!!!

Not sure outside of racing it is worth it?

They look the dogs whatsits.  Reads like a lot of thought has gone into the design on the face of it.
 

Hoping to catch up with out metallurgist at work tomorrow for him to pass judgement on my broken shaft.

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So thats an extra 10hp just by the application of red paint.  New stainless pistons as well.  Looking forwards to putting it all back together at the weekend.

Never really understood the apetite in the classic car market for the sex shop look, looks much better now to my eyes at least.

Hello Ian                I have examined and measured to old one and I think worked out what was wrong with it apart from being loose! As you saw all the needle roller were present but the f

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Those CDD kits look nice.  However, I do wonder how many he will sell at that price, considering you could do a roto-based CV set-up for not alot more.

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30 minutes ago, Nick Jones said:

Those CDD kits look nice.  However, I do wonder how many he will sell at that price, considering you could do a roto-based CV set-up for not alot more.

Yes.  I suppose for competition where you have to use the original basic setup.

Or if you want to keep the car essentially original.

Or as it's basically a straight swap there's less engineering involved than changing to the roto/CV. Moreso if you have to get a hold of all the roto bits on top of that.

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All true.... but if you want to keep the original setup the original (or original pattern) parts are all available at a fraction of the cost and they do actually work reasonably well.  Competition is a fair point but how many now out there racing Spitfires seriously now?

I hope he does sell some - he's put the effort in.  Maybe now values are climbing....

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It’s a lot of cash but if you added up the price of all new parts to match those included so with the new inner hub, sensible trunnion bush solution, stronger bearings etc then it perhaps isn’t such a bad deal.  Especially if you factor in the short run batch premium for machining etc.

Just need a lottery win now.  More chance of being struck by lightening :biggrin:

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Hello All

             I think I will stick with my Fitchets ones at about £75 each

Plus if you fit ones that good and drive that hard I think you may get through a diff, gearbox or engine or two!

But the drive shafts will still be good

Perhaps buy an MX5?

Roger

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6 minutes ago, rogerguzzi said:

Perhaps buy an MX5?

Certainly you can buy a complete working MX5 for the price of those shafts......

...... though probably not a a great one.

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27 minutes ago, Nick Jones said:

Certainly you can buy a complete working MX5 for the price of those shafts......

...... though probably not a a great one.

:laugh:

36 minutes ago, rogerguzzi said:

Plus if you fit ones that good and drive that hard I think you may get through a diff, gearbox or engine or two!

But the drive shafts will still be good

Likely true...:thumbsup:

Having said that, breaking one of the originals was one of the reasons I've toyed with the idea of fitting a roto-derived CV conversion to mine.

I have one new-old stock on the car now and one original (short shafts). @rogerguzzi I take it you were very happy with the Fitchett's ones being top quality.

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Hello Colin

                  One has covered 7500miles and the other 5000 miles.

The ones that the yokes came loose covered 2000 and 4500 miles but I could hear them before that!

The first we were touring Ireland and did about 400 miles with it clicking

The second we were touring Spain and did about the same with it clicking.

I recon you can rebuild them with new shafts and quality bearings and U/J's for about £150 each if you shop about for bearings (Fleabay Etc)

So that leaves about £700 to spend on other things!

Roger

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Thanks @rogerguzziall back together.  New old shaft looks fine on a quick test drive.  Need to speak to TD Fitchett and build up some new shafts. 

0ECB2889-5D51-4C30-91A2-42ABAAD0530B.thumb.jpeg.52bd277e3ca8b4c3d91443eceadb86b5.jpeg

The works metallurgist had a good look at the failed shaft.  He thinks there was a crack for a long time Looking at the area of failure that’s polished.  He was impressed by how long the shaft hung on before the final fast fracture.  The weld may have accelerated things.  
 

Will be replacing the other side for piece of mind.

 

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13 hours ago, Radioactive Man said:

The works metallurgist had a good look at the failed shaft.  He thinks there was a crack for a long time Looking at the area of failure that’s polished.  He was impressed by how long the shaft hung on before the final fast fracture.

That's interesting - I wonder what 'a long time' means in terms of mileage.

Hopefully the metallurgist's admiration of the failure is a comfort to you and the Mrs!!

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2 hours ago, PeteStupps said:

That's interesting - I wonder what 'a long time' means in terms of mileage.

Hopefully the metallurgist's admiration of the failure is a comfort to you and the Mrs!!

He was talking it could have been years in the making.  He was going by the large area that was polished.  


He was of the opinion the fracture was pretty large and well established  before the shaft failed... so perhaps for a road car the factor of safety is pretty high in terms of design numbers.

 

he wanted to cut it up and stick it under his microscope.  I am more interested in sticking it up on the wall as a trophy so didn’t let him cut it up.

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  • 1 month later...

Hello Ian

               We have enough parts to build 2 except drive flange(unless you can this bugger off the bit of shaft!)

A 20 ton press may do it?

Roger

ps just to wind you the Breakfast inspectors are out tomorrow 

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