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1970 GT6 MK2


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52 minutes ago, Mark said:

love the revolutions, always wanted a set for my car, fitted m12 studs so not sure if today's revo's use sleeved nuts, which would be a problem.

Modern Revolutions use standard nuts, which are available as M12. I have 'acorn head' ones from MisteR Tee. 

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2 hours ago, Mark said:

Most of the things on your "to do list" could apply to my mk2, with the addition of body work, respray, etc. Your car looks great, love the revolutions, always wanted a set for my car, fitted m12 studs so not sure if today's revo's use sleeved nuts, which would be a problem.

Revolutions still use sleeve nuts. However if you give them a call they have lots of options available and very helpful. Sorted me out with replacements for the Scimitar recently.

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13 hours ago, Mark said:

Most of the things on your "to do list" could apply to my mk2, with the addition of body work, respray, etc. Your car looks great, love the revolutions, always wanted a set for my car, fitted m12 studs so not sure if today's revo's use sleeved nuts, which would be a problem.

Thanks Mark, I think by time I eventually finish the list the car will have rusted away! The project never ends. I wish I had opted to go down the m12 route, I've always had it in the back of my mind that the standard ones are just going to break. I do have the extended imperial ones to fit my alloys

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So it's official, the pictures I had from a good few of those jobs have gone rather annoyingly, switching phones they must have not been backed up.. bugger.

So on with the jobs!

The clutch pedal slop that all these cars seem to suffer with wasn't too bad on mine but figured I'd address it. Remove the pedal and simply Mark the hole position. Weld it up and then drill to correct size. Very easy and for a bit of extra strength you can weld flat washers wither side too. Upon refitting, I tiger sealed the pedal and around the holes as water accumulating on the bulkhead in the wet drips in from here.

The dash top recover turned out quite well

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before this would have been the pictures of removing the old dashtop and vents and repairing it.

The dash top on mk2 gt6's are non existent anymore so I really had to be careful. DO NOT REMOVE THE VINYL ON THE DASHTOP. If you come to doing one of these don't mess with it, you'll pull all the foam off with it! First flatten any cracks of splits with sandpaper, then using some body filler, apply a smear and sand flat. 

The vinyl I used was supplied from Owen at park Lane classics. Lots of bulldog clips and a tin of evo stick, apply the glue, lay the vinyl and then stretch it out, clamp, stretch, repeat. Until you're left with no wrinkles and you can trim the edges. The demister vents just had a similar refurb. Smoothed out with filler, sanded and painted. Looks miles better than it did before!

A few little jobs fill the time in the evenings, like fitting a new chrome trim for the windscreen. I replaced the screen last year and the chrome trim had started delaminating itself in some spots and looked naff, so with some soapy water and about 15 minutes, I'd installed the new one

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they just push in, without the soap forget it, you'll have no thumbs left. 

On the subject of screen, after doing some research, I settled on new wipers

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these are NOS trico wiper blades. Brand new and the rubber looks it too! They are a tad sloppy on the arms, the diameter of the slot is slightly bigger than the arm as is the hole for the little dimple, I'll have a play around with getting them to a tighter fit when I fit them.

Now as with all of this the dashboard was gutted to remove the heater for refurb, again I'm quite annoyed I've lost the photos of this as it was quite a lot of work. I essentially eliminated any gaps in the box and made it quite air tight, that way there's minimal air lost before it gets to the vents. I also ended up upgrading the motor to that of a smart 4 2.

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obviously this is the result. Its a Quality job, pun intended. So to fit the motor requres the old hamster wheel fan blade from the existing motor, drilled out to ever so slightly smaller than the shaft of the new motor, that way its a nice press fit. Now fitting it, you want as much of the fan inside the case as possible. Essentially just sit the motor and fan inside the case, measure the distance from the case to the motor and add a few mm to amount for the movement of the shaft, box being compressed against the bulkhead etc. Enough so it won't rub.

The rest is fairly straight foward, I purchased some aluminium tubing and bolts from b&q to space the motor out and to make a shroud, a quality street tin with some rubber seal either side. You may joke, but it's genuinely the perfect thickness and was pretty much spot on the right width and circumference. I have wired it to the existing resistor and on full power, it draws just over an amp less then the standard fan but produces over double the air flow I'd say. It's a bit more proud behind the dash and does require a bit of jiggling with the loom but it fits nicely.

I just want all these little jobs out of the way, then I can turn my attention to the engine. I think I'm going to go with the tr5 6 35 65 cam, just need to find a good source for new ones

Jacob

 

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Fan motor off a Honda Jazz also fit nicely, but have to open up the hole diameter....and used the 4 speed controller. Had to replace the on/off switch with a 4 pole rotary tho.

Think I need to also open up the inlet hole diameter, seems to struggle on full speed.

IMG_20200624_180756.jpg

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On 4/19/2024 at 7:00 AM, RedRooster said:

+1 for the TR5 cam. 

Just got to find a good supplier to buy one from, not sure where the usual places like rimmer, canley and moss get their's from, or if it even matters....

It's definitely 307689 right?

 

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On 4/19/2024 at 7:39 AM, Steve 13-60 said:

Fan motor off a Honda Jazz also fit nicely, but have to open up the hole diameter....and used the 4 speed controller. Had to replace the on/off switch with a 4 pole rotary tho.

Think I need to also open up the inlet hole diameter, seems to struggle on full speed.

IMG_20200624_180756.jpg

Steve, I have to ask what that other hydraulic cylinder under the steering rack is for??

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I'll dig them out, think they are on the laptop.

Found this on the phone though..... This is the engine that lasted 150 miles due to the chocolate cam from Canleys......

I dragged the Herald back home to Berlin to fix the motor, left it there while I nipped back to blighty, then lockdown .....didn't see it again for 3 years!

 

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It's a clutch master cylinder in-line with the main brake line, so when activated operates all 4 wheels.

And when you operate the normal brakes the fluid just passes through......old hydraulic handbrake trick from yonks ago.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Evening all, had a little break from the gt6, been redoing the garage in the evenings, concreting the floor, tiling it, building a new workbench.. the lot. Anyway that's 99%done now and I can now turn my attention back to the gt6. 

Thanks To Nick, I am one big step closer! We have a crank! That was dropped off at the machine shop good month or so ago now and yesterday I collected it

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I used Classic and modern in Bracknell, not the cheapest but very reputable. I can sadly confirm that I am £330 lighter now! Crank is at +20 and I opted for tri metal bearings supplied by the machine shop.

The block is back in the engine stand and will be getting a very good clean and fresh coat of paint in the next day or so, however I keep umming and arring about the cam. Part of me wants to build a very decent spec engine with a hotter cam, and the other part says keep the standard mk2 cam. I want the car back on the road but it's bleeding me dry, if I go down the tr5/6 cam route I'm in deep, not only for the cam, but then having the hassle of selecting needles and springs, quite a lot of work. Or run my mk2 cam. I will be upping the cr and doing some port work regardless so the head will be suitable for either cam.

Now to add to this conundrum, I was settled on keeping my existing cam but tonight I think I'm back to square 1.

I decided to check the cam, logical thing to do really given the catastrophes this engines been through. So I rigged a little setup

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try to ignore the sawdust all over the block!:laugh:

I essentially just plopped the cam in with a bit of oil on the journals and lobes and going one love at a time, used a follower and pushrod to measure the lift.

this standard mk2 cam should give .232"

My figures(give or take a few thou from the setup and my cheap dti:

1=.2326, 2=.2317, 3=.2311, 4=.2311, 5=.2317, 6=.2326, 7=.2326, 8=.2318, 9=.2311, 10=.2098, 11=.2031, 12=.2035

So started out great then went off a cliff. I think no 10 or 11 did have a bit of pitting on the edge of the lobe also

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now, realistically, this cam is not usable right? 

Anyone want to confirm my fears:down:

 

 

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23 minutes ago, Nick Jones said:

Yeah..... that cam is done I'm afraid....... :sad:

I had that same feeling:sad:

One step foward, two steps back:laugh:

Looks like I'm going to be buying a new cam regardless! I have yet to ask newman on prices for a cam but realistically what can I expect to pay? Canley charge about 250 for a 307689. Obviously newman is quality but really comes down to money.

And I'm guessing everyone is going to say steer clear of cams from rimmer,canley etc?

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Edit on that last post, just checked newman and prices, more or less the same money for their own 6cyl cams so will definitely get one from them, only question now is which one!

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To replace the chocolate cam from Canleys I ordered one from Newman's and a set of cam followers as the general advice is to get both from the same source so they can't blame someone else if there's a problem. However, as posted elsewhere, they supplied a set of 8, 4 of which were perfect and 4 were in an unfinished state. The face of the followers still had the central turning nipple were the tool isn't set exactly on the Centreline. And turning marks on the cylinder face. They did supply a further full set of 8, so I now have 12 to choose from. Just make sure you check them when they arrive.

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