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1976 Triumph Spitfire Build thread


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More progress today finally glued the rear wing on and sorted out some missing metal on the bottom of the door recess, a momentous occasion the last time this spitfire had a driver rear wing was 1993.

Stick 'em on ebay - they could be worth more that the Spit to one of those avid collector types. After all, they must be as rare as Kurt Cobain guitars and those are fetching millions... Paul

I must admit this thread has had me doubting myself even though I know someone with a late Mk4 head on a 1500 with a non standard cam who says it goes great. Looking at the chart a Mk4 head will give

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After watching Wigan Athletic loose to Gillingham I thought I would cheer myself up by doing some shed work. Converted a very rusty wiper motor to something presentable.

IMG_20210331_215606.thumb.jpg.805a4f8157f77709823af6f37ae32417.jpgand attempted to repair the rather floppy transmission tunnel er....cardboard. I will see in the morning if I am successful.

IMG_20210331_215555.thumb.jpg.d08416bbe079149d2305af69000bfa85.jpg

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Managed to get a few hours in today. Greased up the wiper motor and fitted. Found the new coil bracket and bolted that in. Searched round for the holes for the starter solenoid fitment and eventually found that I had welded up one of them so drilled out the hole and struggled to fit the solenoid bracket as I was on my own.

Next fit  missing jubilee clips, brake pipe clips and sort out the wiring.IMG_20210404_131805.thumb.jpg.f0e8d0bcbb61fbd019e0689b2a1c4d3b.jpgIMG_20210404_164053.thumb.jpg.7740e47b1491756dcf53adb260426e2d.jpgIMG_20210404_163944.thumb.jpg.1f858687d45d45bc7f97055f3b940c9a.jpg

 

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1 hour ago, hardhatharry said:

Searched round for the holes for the starter solenoid fitment and eventually found that I had welded up one of them

:biggrin: it’s not just me then!

1 hour ago, hardhatharry said:

struggled to fit the solenoid bracket as I was on my own.

Arms too short? Need orangutan arms mate :ninja:

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Never drove with one but a standard 1500 spitfire can be a bit of a bugger to stop. My engine is going to be a bit more fruity than standard so every little helps. The master cylinder also has a larger than standard bore to move more fluid, I have braided hoses and high iron content drilled and grooved front disks to fit also. I have always found braking to be a afterthought on British cars and everyone I have owned I have upgraded the stopping power.

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If you have a bigger M/C bore then you'll need the servo to get the pedal effort back down again.  Biggest improvement is the use of decent pads.  That excludes anything sold by the usual suspects and anything with "Green" in the manufacturers name......  I like Mintex M1144.

Iran Spitfire brakes on my my Herald for quite a while. They were fine until I had a tweaked 1500 in it.... then pad fade became a feature.  I fitted Vitesse brakes and that sorted it.

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Ahh I remember asking a year ago about brake pads and it was between EBC Green Stuff and the Mintex ones. I plumbed for the EBC's as the Mintex were described as "race" pads but afterwards I was assured that they weren't and better than the EBCs. I will be trying the EBC's first but if they aint up to it I will buy and fit the Mintex. 

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I’d use Mintex 1144 on my 3a if I could find an affordable set. They seem to be £140 ish for mine

currently using NOS. Ferrodo which are brill from cold so ideal for my sprints. But can’t find more of them.

 

E8EDE8E7-9E9F-4554-9523-E9ED2548B40F.jpeg

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Very nice indeed. 2 pack polyurethane is often recommended and was used on the later cars I believe. But I have heard that it can crack relatively easily.

When I did one many years ago I used standard polyurethane. Start with sealer coat and then keep adding coats with fine sanding in between until you get the depth of finish you like. Lasted many years

 

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17 minutes ago, hardhatharry said:

Any recommendations on the varnish to use?

I would use a marine varnish like internationals compass, these have uv filters which help protect the varnish from sun damage. Good quality one pack, easy to use and produces a good shiny finish.

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On 12/21/2020 at 9:55 AM, sparky_spit said:

If you can find a 218142 head, which is "big valve" and from a Toledo I think, you will get 9.6:1 on a 1500.  I have that head on my 1500 engine and have measured the CR so I know it is correct.  See the chart attached.

4cyl heads.JPG

Where abouts is the 218*** number stamped on the head?, I have 3 x 3122 heads.

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Decided to start to put the overdrive back together for testing, I dug out my build jig for long pointy objects commonly known as a crate and got to cleaning of the gaskets. I got the gearbox and adaptor plates nicely cleaned off and opened the gasket kit to find it didn't include that gasket, doh!

Ordered with some other bits I found were missing (nothing serious) and wait, photo is prior to cleaning the gaskets).

IMG_20210417_210459.thumb.jpg.fd1c75fecf70669eb994bbc6e7cb0339.jpg

So I found something else to do. I grabbed the box marked shocks and dug out the doo-hickory I bought off the internet to compress them and got to work.

The doo-hickory works well.

IMG_20210418_111725.thumb.jpg.b1fe67422981f82b8556836b78fa13b4.jpg

And the completed shocks look like the new ones in the brochure which is nice.

IMG_20210418_112612.thumb.jpg.7f0e294d83108e07eaa4864ca94251eb.jpg

I didnt get chance to fit them so thats for another day.

Time to push the car out of the garage and do more bodywork and some electrics......

 

 

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So this is a strange one, I think I have 2 starter solenoids and I dumbly didnt take a picture of the solenoids when I took them apart.

I have the standard Lucas solenoid like so.....IMG_20210418_141321.thumb.jpg.133373df6ad6ccc4b7ed7fd536b53cc5.jpg

but there are some strange wiring going on and not wired like the manual.

And I have this.....

FB_IMG_1618772285664.thumb.jpg.d2b0c58eb4197a632568ffa2598cfea4.jpg

Which is connected to the starter motor.

The one in the first picture is a replacement for the one I got in the car as that was generally falling apart. The previous owner has extended the white with red tracer wire and yellow with white tracer wire  down to what I assume is another solenoid. Yellow with white tracer and pink with white tracer is on the positive side of the coil. White with black tracer is on the negative side of the coil. All the big brown wires are on one side of the of the Lucas solenoid withe the battery connection the other side has a thick black wire going down to the other solenoid.

There is a white with slate tracer floating round that I dont have an idea what that connects to. 

Any idea what I need to connect to get this working?

 

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Sorry another question when fitting the overdrive adaptor plate to the gearbox should this pin be pointing towards the centre of the gearbox or away from the gearbox (opposite direction).400893376_gearboxpin.thumb.jpg.2aa210e99a54fd167a2c67b963d47f39.jpg

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9 hours ago, hardhatharry said:

So this is a strange one, I think I have 2 starter solenoids and I dumbly didnt take a picture of the solenoids when I took them apart.

I have the standard Lucas solenoid like so.....IMG_20210418_141321.thumb.jpg.133373df6ad6ccc4b7ed7fd536b53cc5.jpg

but there are some strange wiring going on and not wired like the manual.

And I have this.....

FB_IMG_1618772285664.thumb.jpg.d2b0c58eb4197a632568ffa2598cfea4.jpg

Which is connected to the starter motor.

The one in the first picture is a replacement for the one I got in the car as that was generally falling apart. The previous owner has extended the white with red tracer wire and yellow with white tracer wire  down to what I assume is another solenoid. Yellow with white tracer and pink with white tracer is on the positive side of the coil. White with black tracer is on the negative side of the coil. All the big brown wires are on one side of the of the Lucas solenoid withe the battery connection the other side has a thick black wire going down to the other solenoid.

There is a white with slate tracer floating round that I dont have an idea what that connects to. 

Any idea what I need to connect to get this working?

 

My guess is that you have a dolomite 1500 flywheel and starter. Or possibly just starter, which is pre-engaged as shown. A normal spitfire starter is an inertia type. (i think the pre-engaged flywheel has the bevel on the ring gear different to spitfire, an inertia starter won't work well with dolly flywheel)

So a PO has just added wiring to "sort" the problem. You could lose the original solenoid altogether.

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