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1976 Triumph Spitfire Build thread


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Picked this up a couple of weeks ago from deepest Southampton which living in Wigan is a 500 mile round trip. Dry stored but not run for 27 years, engine is free, managed to get a OE driver side rear wing, inner wing, new igniton barrel and lock (original one is seized), tonneau cover, a decent set of Mark 3/4 seats and new door skin in the deal.

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More progress today finally glued the rear wing on and sorted out some missing metal on the bottom of the door recess, a momentous occasion the last time this spitfire had a driver rear wing was 1993.

Stick 'em on ebay - they could be worth more that the Spit to one of those avid collector types. After all, they must be as rare as Kurt Cobain guitars and those are fetching millions... Paul

I must admit this thread has had me doubting myself even though I know someone with a late Mk4 head on a 1500 with a non standard cam who says it goes great. Looking at the chart a Mk4 head will give

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Started a bit of shopping......

Got Accuspark full electronic distributor, high output coil, high output spark plugs, carb rebuild kit, fuses, oil, filter (got the right one after 3 attempts),boot light, battery, lots of manuals and water pipe kit.

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Had Thursday off work so dropped the oil and put new in. Fitted the HT leads, sparkies, battery and water hose.

Steering lock was frozen so  hammer and chiseled it off. Ignition frozen too so cut that out and hot wiring for now.

Put fuel in and float bowls overflowed so new needles and jets fitted.

No spark, distributor cleaned up, still no spark, high output coil fitted now we have spark.

Car is now spluttering trying to start but not busting into life and dark plus weak battery has stopped play.

Battery on charge and will try again at the weekend.

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Progress :smile:

Sounds like maybe only two cylinders to me. Possibly one carb is blocked either at the needle valve (no fuel in float chamber) or at the jet/feed tube. Check which exhaust manifold stubs are staying cool.

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On 3/7/2020 at 6:24 PM, Nick Jones said:

Progress :smile:

Sounds like maybe only two cylinders to me. Possibly one carb is blocked either at the needle valve (no fuel in float chamber) or at the jet/feed tube. Check which exhaust manifold stubs are staying cool.

Nick your right, one of the carbs was flooding, all sorted now and running smooth.

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Today in rather rainy Wigan I managed to get the brake and clutch master out for refurb, removed the fuel tank for cleaning and painting, installed the electronic ignition distributor and timed it all up.

Then did a bit of buying, tank clean and line kit, new copper lines for brakes and clutch, lots of stainless fittings,  boot liner trim (mine was missing), shiny alloy rocker cover (bit of bling), battery clamp (again mine was missing), bonnet locating cones (again missing), grommet set and treated myself to a sonic cleaner.

Lots of stuff to fit next weekend :)

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Cleaned, etched, lined and painted the and fitted back in the car with new rubber spout, clips and blanking pipe.

Fitted the new battery clamp and put the choke back on.

Bit more buying too, new ignition switch and the old one fell apart when the steering lock was chiselled off.

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Master cylinder rebuild day and 40 year old brake fluid that has gone solid (I didn't realise it could do that). After much heat and sonic cleaning the old piston is out of the brake m/c and the seal kit is in.

Got problems with the clutch one though.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Over the past few days I have been struggling to overhaul the brake system, managed to get the copper lines disconnected ready for the new ones and relieved the passenger side of its disc caliper for a rebuild. The pistons have been well and truly welded into the calipers, tried soaking in penetrating oil....nope, tried compressed air....nope, tried compressed air and heating up with MAPP blowtorch......nope. Finally resorted to welding a nut onto the inside of the caliper and manufacturing a pulling tool. Now rebuilt with EBC green stuff pads.

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Not seen that piston extraction method before.  Obviously works though!  My last resort method to date is to refit to the car and use the hydraulics - which hasn't (yet) failed.  Maybe I've been lucky.......

Be interested to see what you think of the Greenstuff pads.  If less than thrilled with the bite, M1144s are the ones.  Nearly as good as old fashioned asbestos.

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42 minutes ago, Nick Jones said:

Not seen that piston extraction method before.  Obviously works though!  My last resort method to date is to refit to the car and use the hydraulics - which hasn't (yet) failed.  Maybe I've been lucky.......

Be interested to see what you think of the Greenstuff pads.  If less than thrilled with the bite, M1144s are the ones.  Nearly as good as old fashioned asbestos.

The seals were so bad when I tried to put a pick behind them to remove from the caliper they just shattered, never seen anything like it.

 

My choice was between Green stuff and M1144s but the 1144s were described as race pads. I have had race pads in my track bike and frightened life life out of me when braking into the first corner and the pads were still cold (and hardly working) so I went for greenstuff.

 

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The 1144 is by no mean a race pad. I used first the cheapo stuff from the well known suppliers in our Spit 1500. No good. The I took the EBC Green Stuff. worse than the Standard pad. Then I changed to 1144. Great. Superior brake Performance. Immediately. No Need for warming up the brake. Downside: more dust on the wheels. 

Bought them at rallydesign.

Cheers

Martin

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As Martin says...... 1144s have the best cold-bite on the market - of any pad. Far better than the standard road offerings.

1155s and then 1166s are more track oriented with less cold bite but better heat resistance/performance.

Ferodo DS2500 are roughly equivalent to the 1155. Ran those on the Vitesse for years before going to vented discs. They did benefit from a bit of warming up but nothing scary.

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21 hours ago, Nick Jones said:

Be interested to see what you think of the Greenstuff pads.  If less than thrilled with the bite, M1144s are the ones.  Nearly as good as old fashioned asbestos.

Hello All

              I have a set of green ones if anyone wants them for say half price?

I have some NOS in Spitty that came with the slip saying asbestos warning and the seemed to work ok when we toured the Pyrenees 2 years ago just smelt hot and a bit dusty.

I also have a set of M1144s on the shelf I thought about fitting this winter but there is plenty of life in the NOS ones (75% at a guess!)

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Okay onto the clutch slave cylinder.

Stripped out the transmission tunnel and was surprised it was made of compressed paper, is it worth swapping to fibreglass?

There was quite a bit on oily black grease on the passenger side of the tunnel is this normal?

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