Alternative pumps to Sytec FP601

[James]

So, I think my pump has failed.

Car refuses to start — plugs are sparking and injectors actuating.

Something is igniting... but won’t run.

Anyone know of an alternate part number? Bosch part numbers aren’t available locally — presume they’re ancient.

[Nick Jones]

You should hear the pump run briefly when you turn the ignition on. If it doesn’t then check fuse, inertia switch etc, and if there is power to to the pump, a sharp tap or two when remind it of its purpose.

Bosch pump common part number is 0580 464 070. They are available from many places @ £80 - 100. Used on many things including series 3 XJ6, various 80s/90s injected Vauxhalls & Peugeots.

https://www.glencoeltd.co.uk/

[James]

Thanks, Nick.

 

Is that the same as the Sytec I’m using?

8mm tails in and out - 53mm dia

 

The pump does turn on - doesn’t quite sound right to my ears (may have forgotten what it sounds like)

 

[Nick Jones]

Bosch pump has 12 mm in and 8mm out.

fuel pressure reg sticking open so not pressure in the fuel rail?

[James]

Took out the regulator and can blow very very slightly through it - not much. Guessing that means it might be working.

 

Also gave it a few taps for good measure.

 

put it back in - no difference.

 

with just the pump on the fuel rail makes a whooshing noise.

 

[Nick Jones]

You shouldn’t be able to blow through the regulator. Suspect the whooshing that you’re hearing is the fuel just blowing through it on its way back to the tank without building enough pressure to inject any significant amount of fuel. Could result in the occasion firing attempt but not enough to catch.

Pump sounds different as it’s not doing much work.

Do you use the same 2.5Bar Bosch regulator I have. Pretty reliable usually.......

The quick and dirty, but RISKY check is to restrict the return line whilst cranking and see if this provokes firing. Really needs two people and the one squeezing the return hose needs to exercise great subtlety as you don’t want to shut the line right off and making the pressure go up to the point where a hose pops off or the pump gets hurt.  Pressure gauge immediately upstream of the fuel rail is the correct diagnostic tool!  Building the pressure by squeezing the return might just possibly fire it off or shift any kak stuck in it......

[James]

I think I’m using the same one — it’s something cheap enough to buy another and swap.

When I say I can blow through it - it’s very hard.

For sure it’s close to catching every now and then.

Regulator is a simple thing to check - issue being that it’s 1.5hrs away at my parents.

[James]

Yikes — I can’t find the 0 280 160 221 for cheap anymore.

[James]

This one looks alright.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Webcon-Alpha-2-5-Bar-Fuel-Pressure-Regulator-8mm-Pipe-Hose-Billet-Anodised-Blue/273836243507?hash=item3fc1e97a33:g:WGUAAOSw1RVagCH7

 

 

[James]

Also — the relays are clicking on and off when cranking.

Which actually I am guessing might be more of a thing...

 

 

[oldtuckunder]

if youneed a generic replacement pump try this ebay shop and search for" rival fuel pump" they have a number of 040 replacements at VERYgood prices

[Nick Jones]

That relay clicking is indeed interesting and probably relevant.  Serious volt-drop. Either your battery is a bit flat/ past its best or you have a high resistance connection somewhere, one of the big ones. Any of them getting hot? Earths included.....

The 221 regulators are indeed rare and expensive now, Dammit...... The Webcon one looks ok though. Also look on the Glencoe MSE website as they have a decent selection including Malpassi.

Though I’m inclined to hang fire on that until the relay clicking is resolved.

[James]

Ok — so — could a dodgy bit cable also cause something like the coil fuse blowing? Because that was an electrical issue before all this happened.

 

[Nick Jones]

Coil fuse..... volt drop might not help but also check the dwell settings as if they are wrong the coil current will be too high.  This assumes you have coil drivers in the ECU and not EDIS which takes care of itself......

[James]

The settings worked for years before — so I’m going to assume they were mostly right. It was only for a period of being off the road and taken apart and put back together that the fuse blowing started happening.

I know there’s no real way of testing cables... I remember having an issue on my first Spit — testing with a multimeter didn’t show any resistance issues but it was enough for the starter not to work.

[Nick Jones]

I’d start by checking battery terminals, Major earth straps and major connection points such as solenoid. If anything gets significantly hot after cranking, it’s an important clue.

How old is the battery? Has it been allowed to get flat? A partly sulphated battery will measure ok for voltage at rest but sag badly under load.

[James]

Hmmm ok — so I reckon my latest logs show a dodgy battery.

I made some new battery cables today — both ground and the positive.

 

2019-08-25_16.31.31.csv2019-08-25_16.30.49.csv2019-08-25_16.30.11.csv

CurrentTune.msq

[James]

Tooth logger seems ok too — 35 spikes then a gap

 

[James]

Plus - something is very RPM related ...

[James]

Ok — so I think a new battery is in order.

It makes sense that the battery is straining as I crank causing the starter motor to slow — causing the VR sensor to not pick up properly — and thus a sync error.

Either that or it's the VR sensor needing attention — either a new one (was only just replaced) or getting it closer to the teeth.