SteveT Posted November 21, 2018 Posted November 21, 2018 Well the TR is back on the road!! Well.....part of it....sort of Have just popped the chassis up Knutsford to a guy called Noel, who used to work for TR Bitz, so it can be checked for straightness before I start welding everything together. I always seem to manage to re-start this project in Winter
tr4tom Posted November 21, 2018 Posted November 21, 2018 Great stuff, looking forward to seeing progress Tom
Nick Jones Posted November 21, 2018 Posted November 21, 2018 Excellent! Glad to see I’m not the only nutter who ties Triumph chassis on the roof of his modern....... Nick
Rod1883 Posted November 24, 2018 Posted November 24, 2018 Been there, done that, got the scars/scratches etc.!
SteveT Posted November 25, 2018 Author Posted November 25, 2018 Gotta decide now whether I clear and concrete the carport floor so I have got a good flat base to work on, or make do and start the re-build now. Problem is that concrete doesn’t like freezing temps so I’ll have to get a wriggle on if I’m going to do it.
zetecspit Posted November 26, 2018 Posted November 26, 2018 10 hours ago, SteveT said: Gotta decide now whether I clear and concrete the carport floor so I have got a good flat base to work on, or make do and start the re-build now. Problem is that concrete doesn’t like freezing temps so I’ll have to get a wriggle on if I’m going to do it. I would deffo put a decent floor in. And it doesn't take long at all. Get a man in wit a digger if it needs digging down, some timber to set up the edges and a mixermate to supply the concrete. And get them to add the fibres to the mix, helps stop cracking (usually free). Probably wort getting an accelerator added this weather, and choose your day carefully In fact all you need to do is organise it and get a couple of mates round to help wheelbarrow the concrete and level it.
SteveT Posted November 26, 2018 Author Posted November 26, 2018 Yes I really should do this. All the wonky slabs can come up and then I only have to dig down 2 inches. Concrete wagon can reverse right up to the job and pour direct. Should give a 5 inch thick slab. Only thing is ....I have to put all the TR panels/body/chassis & running gear somewhere.
zetecspit Posted November 26, 2018 Posted November 26, 2018 23 minutes ago, SteveT said: Yes I really should do this. All the wonky slabs can come up and then I only have to dig down 2 inches. Concrete wagon can reverse right up to the job and pour direct. Should give a 5 inch thick slab. Only thing is ....I have to put all the TR panels/body/chassis & running gear somewhere. Kitchen? Bathroom? No, too much humidity. Bedroom it is.
AB|W Posted November 26, 2018 Posted November 26, 2018 Steve, Floors, there are flat ones and there are level ones. If you want a level floor then give thought to water ingress and it may be best to leave a 4" gap along the house wall to fit a drainage channel so any rain water does not sit against the house wall and has somewhere to go. And if you decide on a "level" floor a water level (hose with clear ends), is the best there is when levelling up the formwork / shuttering for the edges. Alan
SteveT Posted November 26, 2018 Author Posted November 26, 2018 Gonna go for flat & level ( feeling brave ). The carport is fully enclosed now so water cannot get in. Just been reading up on fibre filled concrete as opposed to steel mesh. All very interesting.
PGB BME Posted November 30, 2018 Posted November 30, 2018 Noel is a topman, he did some for me on my TR5 chassis, nice job. Phil
SteveT Posted December 1, 2018 Author Posted December 1, 2018 Yes Phil, I definitely recommend him to anyone. Made a nice change to chat over a coffee about the cars too rather than just drop and run. And his paint work is to die for.
Nick Jones Posted December 23, 2018 Posted December 23, 2018 Well done. I’d like a concrete floor in my car port.........
SteveT Posted December 23, 2018 Author Posted December 23, 2018 Was well worth the hassle and pain of doing it with the flu. The old slabs were a real pain in the butt.
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