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Posted

Paint removal continued this weekend. At one point something remarkable happened........

many hands make light(ish) work.

P1180110s.jpg

eventually reaching this point

P1180117s.jpg

and then etch primer

P1180119s.jpg

Now I can see all the dents and deformities, which are many and varied. :pinch:

Meanwhile, at the other end I have been playing with body solder again.  It's a demanding discipline....... 100% concentration at all times as one false wave of the torch can have you back at square one again.  Guess how I know that!

P1180113s.jpg

P1180114s.jpg

Got somewhere in the end . Not sure it was actually "there" but probably as close as this red monkey is getting without wasting alot of lead!

Hatch fit is now only "crap".  An improvement on "very crap".  Need to get a seal as everything is quite flexible so the seal forces will affect fit I think.

Need to buy some filler.  There won't be any thick filler, but there will be thin filler in quite a few places.......  Much less than there was!

Nick

Posted

HI Nick

Looking great, what a transformation in quick time as well!  What make etch primer did you use i need to get some for my bare Vitesse bonnet.

I am struggling with the rest of my DIY spray job at the moment. Trying to find out what I am doing wrong as after leaving nice glossy painted front, rear, side valances and sills out in the rain after a couple of weeks drying time, I am left with whitish circular water marks. When wipped off it leaves a slight raised outline in the shape of the water droplet. Does the same with tap water. A little t-cut and it polishes out. I can only think the paint is not cured, and maybe I put it on to heavy.  I am using lechler mac 5 which is a nitro acrylic 1k paint, asked for cellulose and was told it was the same stuff, not so sure. Spec sheet says three coats, where from memory you can put on several coats of cellulose. Nice glossy finish and touch dry within minutes, just need to understand what's happening before I go any further as i dont fancy running out to the car with T-cut every time it rains.

Mark

Posted
2 hours ago, rustbuckit2011 said:

Mx-5 6 speed no?

MX5  Mk 2 5 speed.  It's there because Chris won it for £ 10, not because I have any ambition to put it in the GT6.  Though I haven't looked inside the Triumph 'box yet.......  Chris thinks we'll be attaching it to a Ford Zetec SE.  I think, not easily we won't!

1 hour ago, Mark said:

Looking great, what a transformation in quick time as well!  What make etch primer did you use i need to get some for my bare Vitesse bonnet.

Thanks for the kind words.  Pictures are flattering it - there are many hours in it yet.  Unfortunately quite a few of them my hours in order to keep the paint shop bill within reason! Using ProXL proEtch in aerosols.  Not cheap but cheaper than buying a compressor and less aggro than borrowing one, mixing the paint and cleaning the gun every time I want to paint a panel.

Nick

 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Got most of the the tub in etch primer now...... just the rear lamp panel and valance left.  And the doors....... and the tailgate.

P1180177s.jpg

P1180178s.jpg

Still quite a bit of panel massage and filling to do, plus getting the doors and tailgate to fit properly.

On that note, what should a GT6 hatch seal look like.  I bought and alleged GT6 hatch seal and there is no way the hatch will ever shut with it in place.  It's a straight bubble seal.  I think straight could be correct, but needs to be smaller that the one I have!

Nick

Posted

OK Nick Jury's out. Absolutely zero etching on the glass, so its not an original TRIPLEX, did have a little plastic AUTOGLASS sticker on it, so replacement at some time. If I remember correctly this came loose with a body shell so I didn't have to remove.

Apart from breaking it to find out, anyone know how to identify a toughened from a laminate?

Alan 

Posted

If you look at the edge, a laminated one should show 3 layers or some kind of sealing.  Toughened one just shows a single greenish layer.

Laminated ones are more flexible than toughened and rather easy to crack.......

Nick

 

Posted
On 9/16/2018 at 8:36 PM, Nick Jones said:

 On that note, what should a GT6 hatch seal look like

Hi Nick

I replaced my Gt6 Mk2 rear hatch seal with this several years ago, and works well. Can't remember where i bought it, possibly Canley's. I have been caught out several times with repro seals, not fitting, slightly different profile or to thick, but this works.

20180917_204304.jpg

Posted

Thanks for seal suggestions........ I'm still procrastinating.

Meanwhile, after joyous ( I lie :pinch:) hours scraping and sanding we now have the doors and tailgate in etch primer.

P1180180s.jpg

Now it looks a bit like a car - and you can see the (many) imperfections in this photo!

Nick

  • 3 months later...
Posted

We have been working on it, though progress is not very obvious.  Panel fit is nearly there and most of the more major imperfections have been massaged (beaten anyway), skimmed, sanded, skimmed etc until something like the right shape.

The bitumen "underseal" has nearly all been removed from the underside of the bonnet now.  Damn but that is one large, knobbly and sometimes hard to reach surface.  Some of it was rusty under the bitumen too.... though only surface.

One thing noticed was that the tailgate seal wasn't anywhere near making contact in at the bottom in the centre near the latch even when being mashed flat at the lower corners.  This implies we got the profile wrong down there - no surprise as there wasn't much to go on! I looked at two other cars.  One was much like ours but the other definitely more curved in the centre.  Both had been "done" previously so no certainty was was correct.

In the end we just latched the tailgate with not seal fitted and measured the gap all the way along.  A plate was then made up to plug-weld to the existing lip and re-profile it.

Quite a bit of trimming and trialling later and it looks like this

P1180845s.jpg

Has also stiffened things up a bit, which is a bonus.

Going to book the paint shop next week.  I'm bored with it!

Nick

Posted

Could do with a semi-decent rear bumper if anyone has one stashed...... same as Spit I think. I have a selection of horrible ones.

Also a pair of the rear horseshoe trims which are GT6 specific - the ones I have are beyond rough.

Posted

No, was white with black interior but I feel that white (or light colours in general) work better on the round tails. As for the interior, condition leans towards “the dog ate my seats”.

Have some MX5 tombstone seats but really need to go lower. Could rebuild originals but want headrests......

Posted
On 1/13/2019 at 5:17 AM, Nick Jones said:

We have been working on it, though progress is not very obvious.  Panel fit is nearly there and most of the more major imperfections have been massaged (beaten anyway), skimmed, sanded, skimmed etc until something like the right shape.

The bitumen "underseal" has nearly all been removed from the underside of the bonnet now.  Damn but that is one large, knobbly and sometimes hard to reach surface.  Some of it was rusty under the bitumen too.... though only surface.

One thing noticed was that the tailgate seal wasn't anywhere near making contact in at the bottom in the centre near the latch even when being mashed flat at the lower corners.  This implies we got the profile wrong down there - no surprise as there wasn't much to go on! I looked at two other cars.  One was much like ours but the other definitely more curved in the centre.  Both had been "done" previously so no certainty was was correct.

In the end we just latched the tailgate with not seal fitted and measured the gap all the way along.  A plate was then made up to plug-weld to the existing lip and re-profile it.

Quite a bit of trimming and trialling later and it looks like this

P1180845s.jpg

Has also stiffened things up a bit, which is a bonus.

Going to book the paint shop next week.  I'm bored with it!

Nick

God I hate that underseal.

Neat fix at the rear, she's looking great.

2 pack, or are you going with acrylic?

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