JohnD Posted July 14, 2016 Posted July 14, 2016 God strips paint, and makes cars rust? Surely not? When a thing of beauty is reduced to a pile of brown powder, it has to be the work of Beelzebub himself! The SnapOn Crud Thug is amazingly effective, over any other wire wheel I've seen. It's available at SnapOn prices of course, but might be worth it for a whole car. See: https://www.snapon.com/International/21pdffiles/pt280thug.pdf John
BiTurbo228 Posted July 14, 2016 Author Posted July 14, 2016 God strips paint, and makes cars rust? Surely not? When a thing of beauty is reduced to a pile of brown powder, it has to be the work of Beelzebub himself! The SnapOn Crud Thug is amazingly effective, over any other wire wheel I've seen. It's available at SnapOn prices of course, but might be worth it for a whole car. See: https://www.snapon.com/International/21pdffiles/pt280thug.pdf John I've had those recommended to me before, but yeah unless I catch someone napping on eBay I doubt I'll own anything Snap-On for a while! I stripped and painted most of the tunnel on the Spitfire today. Might have to consider the Snap-On one actually as I’ve found my angle grinder isn’t quite up to the task. Having to do it in bursts or else it gets worryingly hot. Still, very effective while it lasts
richbike Posted July 15, 2016 Posted July 15, 2016 I've still got a 20 quid power devil one which won't die. Although the guards fallen off ...makes it more exciting to use. Did a whole aga with it last year...then couldn't sell the bloody thing so had to scrap it.
Nick Jones Posted July 15, 2016 Posted July 15, 2016 The yellow one looks alot less rough than ours did - though the camera may lie...... You can get various angle grinder mounted wire brushes for very much less than the Snap-Off effort, though I recommend avoiding the Tool Station ones as they are bit to keen on shedding bristles and I do dislike pulling out wires that are 10mm deep in my flesh having gone through 3 layers of clothing first! Nick
JohnD Posted July 16, 2016 Posted July 16, 2016 (edited) I've had those recommended to me before, but yeah unless I catch someone napping on eBay I doubt I'll own anything Snap-On for a while! Either SnapOn bought the design or the other way around, but a German company "Monti" sells an apparently identical item, the Bristle Blaster (Sounds even better in German - borsterblaster!) See: http://www.bristle-blaster.com/en?gclid=CjwKEAjwtqe8BRCs-9DdpMOilBoSJAAyqWz_7h7SWgOQPjI_R3HtrzNncxeXp7MYzEQPG3rF14nJsRoCg7Dw_wcB It's a bit cheaper, and a used one is on eBay now http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ORIGINAL-MONTI-MBX-Metal-Blaster-crud-thug-snap-on-/282095360919?hash=item41ae319b97:g:KG0AAOSwygJXgNnK Electric and air-powered versions. John Edited July 16, 2016 by JohnD
BiTurbo228 Posted July 16, 2016 Author Posted July 16, 2016 @richbike: Hah, i like the 'exciting' angle grinder. Not sure i'm quite ready for that sort of excitement though :S @Nick Jones: Yeah i've had to pick a fair few out of me from my 2-speed drill. Lord knows what the angle grinder would do at so much higher rpm! @JohnD: Useful information that still a little out of my price range, but i'll definitely keep an eye out for one going cheaply
BiTurbo228 Posted July 16, 2016 Author Posted July 16, 2016 Also, the picture of the yellow one is very flattering. I've since been poking around with a screwdriver (asking for trouble i know) and found that pretty much the entire bulkhead is covered in inch thick filler, with what was presumably unpainted metal behind it! Still, i don't feel as bad cutting more far gone shells about. If i mess it up, it was destined for the scrappy anyway
richbike Posted July 17, 2016 Posted July 17, 2016 Yeah I remember finding one in my chin several hours later. Maybe cheap grinder but decent wire wheels, cheep second hand leather and full face mask. I would say that i find grinder brushes much quicker than drill ones
BiTurbo228 Posted July 17, 2016 Author Posted July 17, 2016 Ooer second hand leather and a full face mask. Not going to ask! In all seriousness, a full face mask would be a rather good idea. Pulled out one that had got 3mm into my nose before stopping.
richbike Posted July 20, 2016 Posted July 20, 2016 Just stumbled across this while looking into engine tweakery. Right near the end he describes his suspension tower stiffening solution.
BiTurbo228 Posted July 20, 2016 Author Posted July 20, 2016 Nearly there with stripping the underside of the Spit. Finished the entire front half. Now it’s just the tunnel at the back that houses the rear axle and diff then it’s back off the rotisserie and onto the chassis to gap the doors! Taking a while though. Whoever undersealed the underside of this car did a damn good job of it! I’ve also just managed to buy a thoroughly rotten bodyshell from a Mk2 GT6 :S It looks pretty much beyond economical repair (look at the floor pans and the end of the sills). The plan with this is to transplant the roof onto my yellow Spitfire and kind of meld the two rear end designs together to make a GT6 lift-back
BiTurbo228 Posted July 20, 2016 Author Posted July 20, 2016 Just stumbled across this while looking into engine tweakery. Right near the end he describes his suspension tower stiffening solution. Ah I've seen a dyno run video of that car but not one where they look at anything chassis-wise. Shall give it a watch
BiTurbo228 Posted July 23, 2016 Author Posted July 23, 2016 Very productive day today Finished the stripping and painting of the underside of the Spit.Also cut out and re-made some sections of the floor I’d done wrong. With my old gearbox mounts I’d had to clearance the floorpan, but the seat rails wouldn’t fit. Rather than modify the rails, I thought I’d go back and re-do the gearbox mount so I never needed to touch the floors in the first place :SThen, got the body down on the chassis! Just need to track down all the little rubber spacers that fit between the body and the chassis (they've all gone walkabout), bolt it down, gap the doors and I can tack it in place
Nick Jones Posted July 23, 2016 Posted July 23, 2016 Ah, productive day indeed. Well done. Don't use rubber (or even fabric) spacers. Use nice big washers/metal plates to thickness needed - you are not building a limo (and won't get one even if you try!). You are going to weld on eventually anyway IIRC? Nick
BiTurbo228 Posted July 23, 2016 Author Posted July 23, 2016 Thanks the spacers were just to get the body in the right place in relation to the chassis so i can weld it in the right place and then take them out
BiTurbo228 Posted July 30, 2016 Author Posted July 30, 2016 Not a big milestone, but an important one! The spitfire’s body and chassis are no longer separate entities Also, thanks to a tip with the welder, I whacked up the heat and slowed down a bit and laid the best weld i’ve ever done on the lower part Also also, been mucking about wit ha new app that adds arty-farty filters to photos you have and came up with the last pic needs to hang in my room somewhere....
Nick Jones Posted July 30, 2016 Posted July 30, 2016 Paint it that colour. That would be a challenge...... Looking a bit car-like now. Got something rather like that lurking in my garage. Nick
BiTurbo228 Posted July 31, 2016 Author Posted July 31, 2016 Paint it that colour. If I hadn't already bought the paint I would try! Triumph Art Car Looking a bit car-like now. Got something rather like that lurking in my garage. Nick It's getting closer just wait til I get the wheels on! What's the progress with yours?
BiTurbo228 Posted August 4, 2016 Author Posted August 4, 2016 More progress on the Spitfire plus testing photo embedding :S This (my new profile pic) is an arty-farty prisma’d photo my mate took of me welding the box sections I’ve added to the Spitfire’s hardtop I’ve done one side, and the other is nearly done. Haven’t finished the external skin yet though... Already the roof is a lot more solid. Don’t mind the blobby welds you can see in the first pic. The proper welding was done from the other side, this is just to add some material so I can flat it all back when my grinding discs come in the post. Also, I’ve quartered a section of tube I had lying around so there’s a rounded face pointing inwards so if I get into a crash I’m not clouting my head on the pointy bit of a box section! To help with this task, I used my brand new sheet metal brake (two pieces of angle-iron fence post, a vice and two clamps). Worked a treat Also, I’ve added sections to the rotisserie bracket so that it can now bolt onto either the bulkhead of a bodyshell or the front of a chassis. Saves making up two separate brackets for the two different things. Lastly I’ve just got back from Cambridgeshire (via Sheffield to grab a fibreglass Spit bonnet) picking up the world’s most rotten GT6 bodyshell. Seriously, this thing is held together by paint and the vague recollection that it used to be a solid car at some point in its history. Luckily, the only part that isn’t lacework or a hole is the roof, and that’s what will get cannibalised and welded to the Spit bodyshell on Spit no. 3. Here it is when we picked it up, and believe it or not that is the most flattering picture if this shell’s condition possible.
richbike Posted August 4, 2016 Posted August 4, 2016 Lol. At some point in its history... presumably before it got melted down and sent to Coventry.
BiTurbo228 Posted August 5, 2016 Author Posted August 5, 2016 Lol. At some point in its history... presumably before it got melted down and sent to Coventry. Hah it was probably leading a perfectly happy life as a dishwasher before someone decided it should be a Triumph
Gunner1 Posted August 5, 2016 Posted August 5, 2016 Thanks Egret, That was awesome. Looks like the T shirt pressing on a TR6. This is what I am doing to improve the turret on my Rover V8 conversion. I boxed the original mount and added another one to tie into my steering rack mounts. Gunner1
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