JMH Posted November 18, 2016 Share Posted November 18, 2016 Its a 'spring - clip' - broken circle with to legs. You should be able to press it in (there are two slots), then push the entire lock from inside out. If you try to remove the clip by open it up, it will probably break. Better picture here: http://www.revingtontr.com/product/37h3387/name/clip-lock-retaining Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6MK3 Posted November 22, 2016 Author Share Posted November 22, 2016 Thanks.  They were "fun" to get out.  One last door side to attack today   Hour of just no fun whatsoever.  Then it was time to test a newish toy   A couple of nails for this dent   Soon after  A washer for this one   And then   These bad boys are done for now.   C. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pomwah Posted November 23, 2016 Share Posted November 23, 2016 Cool, or should that be hot, toy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6MK3 Posted November 23, 2016 Author Share Posted November 23, 2016 Today's challenge - windscreen and surround.   The incredibly perished rubber didn't give up easy   But the glass did come out. Followed by a long session of silicone scraping.   Then with the trim removed, it was back to paint and scrape time.   More work needed...   Hopefully I'll get time to flip it over tomorrow and hit the other side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6MK3 Posted November 24, 2016 Author Share Posted November 24, 2016 Another day, another trip to the salt mines, another side to take paint off.  Only a short session today - had a friend's family celebration to go to.  But this   Became this   And it was worthwhile when I found this under the paint   Mr Tinworm, who now has an appointment with Mr Wire Wheel... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6MK3 Posted November 25, 2016 Author Share Posted November 25, 2016 I can say for a red hot certainty, paint stripping chemicals do not mix well with a head cold.  But this is now to a stage my OCD can accept.    Good news is the surface rust wasn't too deep, and gave itself up to the wire wheel nicely.   The bad news it that while the pax side mounting bolt looks like this   I realized as I went to clean the threads that the drivers side looks like this   This could be challenging... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted November 25, 2016 Share Posted November 25, 2016 That looks like one of those things that makes you say "poo"! Â Â Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6MK3 Posted November 25, 2016 Author Share Posted November 25, 2016 Actually, the word I used had an extra letter. Â Currently trying to figure if I should try to heat the braze and pull the lower leg section, or drill, tap, and wind in some hi tensile threaded rod. Â Anyone seen or heard of a way to do this before? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldtuckunder Posted November 25, 2016 Share Posted November 25, 2016 dill and tap would be neat, or you could just cut off half way up the chamfer, weld a bolt head on, and redress the chamfer, its out of sight, and unless the OCD gives you a complex about what the next owner finds in 20 years time... yes don;t laugh I have often done things the extra mile just because I'd hate someone to find a bodge (all be it a good one) later! Â Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted November 25, 2016 Share Posted November 25, 2016 The correct way is the first method. Â Bit of a ball-ache though. Â I like Alan's suggestion best. Â Very much easier and could easily be made to look right (and it's out of sight anyway). Â Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMH Posted November 25, 2016 Share Posted November 25, 2016 Done quite a few of these: Do it the easy way - its not going to hold anything anyway Nice frame btw! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted November 25, 2016 Share Posted November 25, 2016 Yeah - most of the ones in Europe at horribly rotty now. Â TR6 ones are the same I think? Â Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6MK3 Posted November 27, 2016 Author Share Posted November 27, 2016 Nasty case of man flu this weekend - too snotty and wheezy to do any real work. Â Got sick of lying down this arvo, so I snuck out to the factory and did some sorting through parts. Â Also got out the oxy brazing torch. This little sucker came out a lot easier than expected. Â Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6MK3 Posted November 27, 2016 Author Share Posted November 27, 2016 May have to go to work this week. Â Black Friday sales in the States. Â Speedhut and DIYAutotune just out a serious dent into my xmas spend... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6MK3 Posted November 27, 2016 Author Share Posted November 27, 2016 And Rimmers. Â And Park Lane Classics. Â Wow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Urge Posted November 27, 2016 Share Posted November 27, 2016 That does look a nice very rust free frame, you dont find many like that.  unless you turn a new slug down and thread it, were are you going to find a replacement,  welding a bold at the hex head is not a bad idea, even at this stage Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6MK3 Posted November 28, 2016 Author Share Posted November 28, 2016 It'll go into the lathe - I'll drill and tap it for some high tensile rod, weld that in place, clean it up, the do a freeze/heat and braze to put it back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6MK3 Posted November 28, 2016 Author Share Posted November 28, 2016 Was kinda excited today to be pulling the chassis out of its storage corner! Â Pallet jack was perfect for maneuvering it around.Time to test install the various parts of the body mount kit. Had a copy of the Canley's diagram, but geeze I'm easily confused these days. Â Ended up like this:Alloy spacer on the rear outriggers, with 1.25x3/83.5x5/16 at the rear outcurve of the chassis3x5/16 on the outside of the angled mid outriggers, 1.75x5/16 on the inside3.25x5/16 on the outside of the front outriggers, alloy spacers with 1x5/16 on the inners.Rubber spacers with no bolts, sitting over the holes at the rear of the chassis, just before it swells outward.Does all that look right? I can't seem to find a definitive reference on the net, and I must say the rubber mounts looks wrong...Any help appreciated, I'd like to reintroduce these two tomorrow, and get on with the sills. Â Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6MK3 Posted November 29, 2016 Author Share Posted November 29, 2016 What makes a project like this fun is when your friends help out.  Ward (late of Toyospares fame) came by and helped me to pull the body off the rotisserie.  Then we both took her for a spin.    She's rock solid in a straight line, but very slow off the mark.  The we re-united her with her chassis, and whacked her up on stands.   The doors went on with double gaskets to make up for the lack of paint, but no striker plates or catches so I can see where they sit.  The box of beer on the front was to tease out my bud Matt, he of Stainless Fabrications Australia fame.  He came over after a long day at hos shop, and we put his 20+ years of metal shaping skills to work reshaping and fitting sills.  We trimmed, reshaped, bent and beat the pax sill, and it's now gapped ready to go in.   Rear gap looks ok.    Drivers side is trickier - pulling out the A pillar base has everything wobbling about like a fat blokes gut while he's laughing. So lining it up has been tricky, but.the patch looks like it finally fits.   The door gap at the rear looks good... perhaps too good   It's a little too tight. So I've strapped up the front to try to pull any twist out over the next day or two.   Gap's better, but probably needs a little more   I'll ratchet the strap up over the next day or two, try to relax it back to where it should be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6MK3 Posted December 1, 2016 Author Share Posted December 1, 2016 Another session chasing shut lines   Couldn't resist putting the windscreen frame on   Looks kinda like a car again   Pax side is lining up nicely, need to make a fixture so I can get the floor to sill distances right.   Strapping/stretching the drivers side for the A pillar refit is getting there, door shut lines are just about there  Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted December 1, 2016 Share Posted December 1, 2016 Looking like a a car again - which is a fine morale booster - even if looks are a bit deceiving! Â Definitely worth taking the time to get the fit right - there are far too many Spits and GT6's running round with crappy panel gaps. Â Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMH Posted December 2, 2016 Share Posted December 2, 2016 Correct with all the spacers - rubber used only under the seat belt mounts, so correct. You might need some alu spacers at the front valance too, but depending on how it looks.  Looking good btw Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6MK3 Posted December 2, 2016 Author Share Posted December 2, 2016 Thanks Gents! Â Currently trawling the net trying to figure out what gap to aim for unpainted, so it ends up right painted... Â Any thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMH Posted December 2, 2016 Share Posted December 2, 2016 Between 3/16 and 1/4'' - but just make sure it looks nice (it sure will). Often difficult to get the gap at the front windscreen/bonnet good without having a bonnet scratching off paint on doors and firewall :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Groves Posted December 4, 2016 Share Posted December 4, 2016 Opened his way through Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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