The Watson Posted November 17, 2013 Share Posted November 17, 2013 So I put my hands on the fabled Dolly Sprint clutch bracket after a world search, as it was supposed to make the clutch relocation work well when mounting the TR6 trans on the GT6. It fit great BUT the pic below was what I got! The gap between the slave pushrod and the clutch road lever is about 1.5". That seems like way too much to span for a good solid linkage. Thoughts or suggestion?. I'm thinking I will just have to fabricate a bracket ala Steve Smith or Chuck Gee after all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6Steve Posted November 17, 2013 Share Posted November 17, 2013 Wow! That is a big offset, I'm surprised. I reckon the original line would've supplied a more bent arm but I don't know. This is my constant gripe that these things were built by committee. Nothing ever standard despite the name. Presumably the nice stampings are stiff enough to avoid flex? If so, I'd work with it cuz my lashup went thru many iterations before it was sturdy and nowhere near the elegant engineering I desire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Watson Posted November 17, 2013 Author Share Posted November 17, 2013 It is a nice solid stamping. The one I found was even NOS. Here is another pic of just the bracket. Is it really that impossible to use the stock TR6 bracket? Maybe a few minor sheetmetal or frame cuts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted November 17, 2013 Share Posted November 17, 2013 Yeah.... problem is that the clutch operating cross-shaft comes in 3 flavours. TR2-6 and saloon p/no. 136354 - this is what you have. Sprint p/no. 158168 - has the arm pointing upwards and much more cranked to line up with the slave cylinder Stag p/no. 150709 - not sure how it differs but it ain't what you want. Your choices: Mod the cross-shaft arm to suit. Not hard for a decent fabricator/blacksmith type - but it needs to be strong - they are known to twist/snap due to the offset pivot points. Make a different slave bracket (space/packaging concerns - the Sprint arrangement is about as good as it gets for your application) Invest in a concentric slave kit from HVDA or similar. (I think Steve uses something like this??) To this last option I would add (as a saloon owner with the same basic design) that the cross-shaft arrangement is RUBBISH with failures being common and a nice feeling clutch pedal being rare. If you decide to stick with it then do double up on the bushes at each end and add grease nipples and do add a dowel or through bolt to back up/assist the taper-pin, which breaks all too often. You may also have some trouble finding a release bearing carrier that is the right length for your application (which also has a big effect on clutch operation and feel). Best advice - start with one of the longer brass ones (earlier TRs I think) I get it machined down to suit. You can happily ignore this last paragraph if you go concentric release! Yeah, the hydraulics can fail and you have to pull the box. Same story if the taper pin shears (they do), or if the fork snaps (they do). Cheers Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esxefi Posted November 17, 2013 Share Posted November 17, 2013 ideally you need the dolomite cross shaft which has the correctly angled bell crank and will line up perfectly with the pushrod.if you make one make sure it is quite thick section and double weld it to the shaft as the offset angle creates a high shear load which eventually fatigues the originals to failure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esxefi Posted November 17, 2013 Share Posted November 17, 2013 nick beat me to it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted November 17, 2013 Share Posted November 17, 2013 Just to add - if you do mod your shaft, note that the hole through it to fix the fork position is tapered so you cannot just flip it round as shown in your pic, as the taper will then face the wrong way! Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Watson Posted November 17, 2013 Author Share Posted November 17, 2013 Thanks. I had no idea the Dolly cross shaft existed. Not too many in South Carolina! I will look for one and may also throw in the towel and look into the annular release bearing options. I know restorations sells one for $$$$$$. Any one else? I am also contacting HVDA in the states. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Watson Posted November 17, 2013 Author Share Posted November 17, 2013 HVDA no longer sells them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6Steve Posted November 18, 2013 Share Posted November 18, 2013 I don't know it this can contribute anything as it was obviously built to fit. I rotated the TR shaft 1/4 turn and bolted the cross shaft to make this work. Second pic shows the extended throw out bearing. The extension is just a tube with steps machined at each end then pressed together. Never had any issue with this mod. For concentric throwout assemblies look to the stock car suppliers. Tilton makes one { $$$$$ } and Howe had the one I liked best. Afco Racing is a really good resource as well as Hoerr Racing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted November 18, 2013 Share Posted November 18, 2013 Ah ok, don't know why I thought you had a concentric one slave Steve....... Quite a few OE concentric slaves around these days. Saab being one of the longest to use them. Lots of modern European Ford and GM products use them too but don't know about West of the big pond. There is a Saab one that takes the right size/shape bearing - can't find the p/no just now as have misplaced my notes. Still needs mods to locate and space it properly though. Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Watson Posted December 17, 2013 Author Share Posted December 17, 2013 This project is moving along pretty well (knock on wood) as I slowly find the needed Sprint parts. Here are a couple of pics just FYI. One question though, I think the best slave cylinder would be that from the Sprint also, since it is essentially the same set up. It is a 7/8" bore but seems the bracket has smaller bolt holes than the GT6 slave typically uses. They are available in the UK, but not that I have found in the US. Anyone know if it is a shared part with another Triumph or other car. A shame to pay as much for shipping than for the part. Thanks all - you've been a big help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted December 17, 2013 Share Posted December 17, 2013 Not sure about the Sprint, but on the saloons it is possible to use a Landrover one. These are the same external fitting and come in 7/8" and 1" bores. Info I've just found suggests the older ones use 7/8" and the later ones (V8 and diesel too) use 1" but suggest checking that! I'm using one myself on my saloon but can't remember which bore. Saloons use both dependent on engine size and also have 3 drillings on the operating arm to choose from just to compliacte matters further! Can you not use the original GT6 one? Cheers Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SP Posted December 17, 2013 Share Posted December 17, 2013 I have the same box in my Vitesse 2.5 using a thinner Vitesse flywheel,Sprint cross shaft upside down which lines up with the slave perfectly. Also modded taper pin,Standard bearing carrier but its the Brass one. I also had the bushes and the fork pins replaced as they were too small.The clutch is very smooth and works perfectly,i found with the steel bearing carrier it was notchy-sort of off or on. Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Watson Posted December 17, 2013 Author Share Posted December 17, 2013 Thanks Nick. I had noticed that Canley or Rimmers had the same product offered for RRovers, so you confirmed the option! My GT6 slave has larger bolt holes and is worn, so I needed a new one anyway. This has been a fun, ever-evolving mystery with international intrigue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Watson Posted December 17, 2013 Author Share Posted December 17, 2013 Do you guys make extra mods to the fork and screw-pin to avoid breakage. I have an uprated pin from Wishbone, but am wondering if that is enough for a racer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted December 17, 2013 Share Posted December 17, 2013 I drilled and added a 1/4" high tensile bolt. Wants to be a tight fit in the hole. Others use roll pins or dowels. Key thing is that the fit of the taper bolt is good. Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lincspeed Posted December 18, 2013 Share Posted December 18, 2013 Jeez guys, we fitted an anular throw out on my TR 6 box and just had to drill a couple of holes in the bell housing for the hydraulics. So far (two seasons) so good... Knock wood! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esxefi Posted December 18, 2013 Share Posted December 18, 2013 that's all well and good until a seal fails,but if your racing the box is probably in and out quite often so can be easily fixed.me,i'm lazy I would rather the failure prone parts be on the outside.(after doing all the aforementioned mods to the standard set up of course) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Watson Posted December 18, 2013 Author Share Posted December 18, 2013 Clark - I might move to that someday, but this is my initial set up. Who did you source your kit from, Racetorations? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Watson Posted January 11, 2014 Author Share Posted January 11, 2014 FWIW, here are a few pics of the assembled gearbox/clutch with: - Dolly Sprint slave bracket and cross shaft (modified to take cross bolt) - Range Rover slave - new wide cross shaft bushings and brassk bearing holder from Wishbone - lots of cleaning! It will be a while before it's mounted up to the motor to check the spacing and mechanicals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esxefi Posted January 12, 2014 Share Posted January 12, 2014 looks good,but believe me double layer that crank arm.weld some re enforcement on it.the off set leverage stress will cause it to fail eventually.me (and countless others)know.even moreso if you are using an uprated clutch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Watson Posted January 28, 2014 Author Share Posted January 28, 2014 Advice taken on beefing up the lever. My local welder did a beautiful job on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted January 28, 2014 Share Posted January 28, 2014 That looks like a nice bit of work. Ready to go in now? Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Urge Posted January 30, 2014 Share Posted January 30, 2014 I am in the middle of doing this very same gearbox swap in the gt6 mk1. I have the saloon four speed gearbox, The GT6 flywheel is thinner than the saloon one, my question is, With this in mind, if you was building an engine with a lot of power, what clutch would you use???? can I make GOOD use to the space (differance in flywheels)??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now