Sam Posted September 7, 2012 Posted September 7, 2012 Hi... I'm looking at the mess of wires under my car's dash and thinking "I can do better." Before I plunge in, would it be wise or stupid to use a Herald 13/60 wiring diagram as a guide? EG: http://herald-tips-tricks.wikidot.com/electricals:wiring-diagram-1360 Nothing wrong with the 1500 diagram but I just don't need all door courtesy lights, stereo, seatbelt warning buzzer, etc.. Cheers!
zetecspit Posted September 8, 2012 Posted September 8, 2012 Pretty sure all colour codes are the same across all the cars. So yes, fine to use that one. Bear in mind that the herald had a dynamo and control box, and no fuses. Simple enough to modify of course.
pomwah Posted September 10, 2012 Posted September 10, 2012 Mmmm, could just take the 1500 diagram and white-out all the bits you don't want/need. Cheers, James TOO
JohnD Posted September 11, 2012 Posted September 11, 2012 (edited) "Better" in what way, Steve? Best mod I made to the wiring was to insert multiway connectors for every piece of kit connected to the loom. This is the "modern way". Instead of scrabbling around, on your back with a torch in your teeth under the dash, trying to push those spade connectors back onto the right terminals, in the dark with no finger-room. For instance, an extra length of cable (multicore or just wires taped together) and a multiway lets you release the speedo, pull it from the dash, and unplug the multiway. Simples! Edited September 11, 2012 by JohnD
pomwah Posted September 11, 2012 Posted September 11, 2012 Best mod I made to the wiring was to insert multiway connectors for every piece of kit connected to the loom. Got to agree, that's the way I'm putting mine back together. Only a MkII but I'm adding the cabling for a 4A-GE. Also decided to earth everything I can with its own "earth strap" connected to an earth loop. More weight, a little more complicated but a lot more reliable. Cheers, James TOO.
Sam Posted October 17, 2012 Author Posted October 17, 2012 Okay after finding a bunch of melted wiring and other horrors, I've now replaced most of the loom so far. An Auto electrician is checking it before I hit the ON button...just to be safe. Most helpful diagram i found was this one from the Ginetta. I do have a generator and control box so i've kept those as is (if they work!). The only upgrades i've done are fuse box (blade fuses) and major earth straps. http://www.nearthecoast.com/plasticcars/ginetta/ginetta-g15/g15-tech-guide/pdf/G15_wiring_diag.pdf Getting correct coloured wiring in NZ is impossible unfortunately. I'm happy with mine, it's all nicely soldered, crimped and routed through the firewall tidily. I just hope it all works after all that trouble... my horn doesnt work any more...I must have damaged it with grit when I de-rusted then polished & sprayed (so much effort, wasted).
pomwah Posted October 17, 2012 Posted October 17, 2012 Horns? How about: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/160886465088?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649#ht_2663wt_906 Cheers J2
2.5piman Posted March 4, 2013 Posted March 4, 2013 Hello John, although your extra connectors make life simpler, more connections equal a greater resistance in the circuit and the potential for more trouble. It may be the 'modern way' but not good practice in my view. Alec
JohnD Posted March 5, 2013 Posted March 5, 2013 Alec, Yes, but surely a very, very small addition. On a site is for radio-control aircraft freaks, who must optimise their circuit as much as posisble, I found that one had measured the resistance of a number of commercial connectors. Uploaded with ImageShack.us He finds that the resistance varies, from 0.2 to 4.8 MILLI-Ohms. So if a standard car spade connector has a hundred times that resistance(which I don't believe) an extra connector could add 0.02 to 0.4 Ohms to the wiring. And, if that worried you, solder the wires directly to the spades on the back of the guage. ZERO resistance, or if not as any wire has a resistance, too small to measure. Then the extra, convenience multiway will not add any resistance to the circuit whatsoever. JOhn
2.5piman Posted March 5, 2013 Posted March 5, 2013 Hello John, yes a small addition but with time, who knows? Certainly it depends on the quality of the plug and socket.but to me an unneccessary complication. Just my own take on it. Alec
2.5piman Posted March 5, 2013 Posted March 5, 2013 Hello John, It seems there is no edit on this board as I meant to add, ' Only at minus 273 degees centigrade, zero resistance that is@ Alec
Sam Posted August 18, 2014 Author Posted August 18, 2014 Just as a follow up - it worked! That Ginetta diagram was my base. I put in several fuses, car audio and a few other bits and pieces like a phone charger/mp3 dock. Its extremely pleasing to know there's NO dodgy old wiring in my car now Then when I was racing (sideways of course) around a corner, a lead 'jumped' off the coil and shorted somewhere killing the points (or regulator or something). I chucked electronic ignition (petronix) in and it runs great now.
2.5piman Posted August 18, 2014 Posted August 18, 2014 Hello Sam, leads do not jump off terminals unless they are defective or not fitted correctly. Electronoc ignition has many adherents but even the most vociferous is unlikely to say that it is a cure for poor terminations? Alec
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now