New From Virginia

[TR6Roadster]

Hi All,

 

I stumbled across this site looking for triumph performance parts and thought I'd join in. I have a jasmine yellow 71' TR6 that is mostly original and in very good shape. New years day my wife and I were out for a spin when the engine made a funky sound I had never heard before and started running very rough. Needless to say it wasn't good. I had broken the exhaust spring on the #3 cylinder. Fortunately, it didn't float down and hit the piston and do more serious damage. I am now in the throws of an 'in car' engine rebuild. Everything was taken off except the crank of course. I have sent the head (3 angle valve, 9.7:1 CR), intake manifold, harmonic balancer, water pump, and rockers off to Wishbone Classics in NY for reconditioning. The original pistons and new rod bearings, new cam (WBC518 street cam), timing chain, thrust washers, and balancer are all back in. I'm waiting for my head, manifold and water pump to come back. Everything has a fresh coat of paint and is looking pretty good. After this phase of engine work is complete I hope to be producing about 135-140 HP. Almost to where this little roadster was originally meant to be.

I'm looking forward to hearing about your machines and getting a little help and feedback from all of your experience as I progress in the rebuild and eventual full restoration of my roadster.

 

Cheers,

 

Jeff

[DaveNotSoSideways]

Hello.

 

Sounds fun. Make sure you have provision for the requirement of richer needles in the carbs when you run the engine again, it'll probably a flow a bit more air and need a bit more fuel. You may know that of course. You can adjust your own needles with a tape measure and micrometer but Wishbone should be able to suggest something. Shouldn't need any running in really so be nice if the engine was setup right from the get go.

 

Good Luck.

[TR6Roadster]

Thanks for the tip.

 

I'm not sure which way I'm going with the carbs just yet. They were running on the rich side when I pulled them off. Kai at Wishbone has been a tremendous help and great source of information and I'll probably follow his suggestions as he is very familiar with the this particular cam and head CR setup.

I would be interested in hearing this needle preset method. Perhaps it would be good for me to preset them or at least check their current condition. How do you adjust the needles as you suggested? What do I shim them with? What is the optimum measurements.

 

Thanks

[spitNL]

Hi Jeff,

 

Welcome to the forum.

 

What carburetors have you got, Stromberg or SU?

This book described the technique for SUs, but I imagine you can also use the same technique to modify Stromberg needles:

http://books.google.nl/books?id=CTz2EAp2ua8C&printsec=frontcover&hl=nl&source=gbs_ge_summary_r&cad=0#v=onepage&q&f=false

The book is very good and I highly recommend it.

 

The technique is also described here:

http://www.terryhunt.co.uk/mini/pics/tech/picsb/pics.htm

[TR6Roadster]

Hi,

 

Thanks.

 

I have Stromberg's.

 

The tips made interesting reading. It was very helpful, thanks. I just setup the timing on my engine last week in preparation to install the rebuilt head. I had never done that before and was glad to see that my dial indicator setup was very similar to yours. Although, I was never able to read the exact max. lift of the cam lobe. Mine should have been .295" at 108 degrees. I couldn't see any more than .285". I measured several lobes and they all varied a few thousands of an inch. I wrote it off the loss (.010") to be my inexpensive indicator and stand and inexperience.

 

Jeff