Royboy66 Posted January 31, 2009 Author Posted January 31, 2009 Got a dolomite impelllor(stag prob same) from rimjobs! http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/cgi-bin/rimmer?findpart&PartID=149483&Page=triumph/dolomite/cooling gonna have a play ,see if i can get it to fit an old gt6 pump I have spare! Well spotted GT!
mattius Posted February 1, 2009 Posted February 1, 2009 Trying to pluck up the courage and work out the measurements to make the cut in im exhaust this week.
RealWorld Posted February 1, 2009 Posted February 1, 2009 I'm investigating a loud 'knock' at the rear of the car, passenger side. I've had all (or most) of the suspension/running gear apart (putting in a diff spacer), and hoped this would solve it, especially having found a dodgy wheel bearing, trunnion and UJ, repaired them and reassembled. But no, the 'knock' remains. Have cleared the boot, changed the boot hinges, searched the inner wings for random cack etc etc etc, but still the noise remains - very apparent when going over potholes/grates etc. Sounds like a suspension part hitting the bodywork - but I'm buggered if I can find it. So - suspected something in the fuel tank! Had that out today and rigged a 'ultra-lightweight' fuel solution!!!! Good fun, but the noise remains. Doh! One other things for anyone interested - the noise frequency and volume decreases with a passenger aboard.... Help!
RealWorld Posted February 1, 2009 Posted February 1, 2009 Ah ha! Found the problem - loose tub to chassis bolts - under the fuel tank - so at least I didn't waste my time taking it out. Marvellous (but snowing here in Yorkshire)
DaveNotSoSideways Posted February 1, 2009 Posted February 1, 2009 I had this issue too! Check ALL the body bolts, the rubber pads compress over time. I assumed it was a duff UJ...
lordleonusa Posted February 1, 2009 Posted February 1, 2009 I only get Sundays off work, and my wife went out to visit her friend ;) I just fitted my new MSD HVC-II Coil, (PN 8253), on a custom made alloy mounting plate/heat shield that I knocked up out of a piece of an old Cessna Wing...(that bit I did on weekday evenings indoors). Hope I can get some more aircraft alloy, it's high grade. Tested, working perfectly. Couldn't take a photo yet, my wife took the camera!!! Léon
Nick Jones Posted February 1, 2009 Posted February 1, 2009 The Skip got polished today in preparation for spending next weekend at the Bristol Classic Car show. First (and probably last) polish of 2009. Both kids helped. Youngest (9) commented that polishing cars has to be done sometimes but anyone who does it more than 2 or 3 times a year obviously hasn't got enough to do and ought to get a life..... ;D. Car came out of the experience slightly shinier - paint (20 year old celly) is getting on a bit. Not very high priority though. Nick
bonsaiisuperstar Posted February 1, 2009 Posted February 1, 2009 Spent the last month making custom trunk interior. First scouted junkyards for proper materials and found a SWEET composite floor piece from a Suburu and some other particle board bits. (Total cost $17.50). Made carboard mockups of the pieces and traced onto the junkyard bits. Cut to fit. Ordered some vinyl and carpet online (Total cost $115.00). 3 cans of 3M spray adhesive later (Total cost $45.00) :'( All pieces finished. Bottom piece even has a nifty little door so I can put a few select tools underneath out of site. Now, I wait till spring for final install of amplifier and bazooka tube. Yes, yes I know, most on this forum will be "That weighs too much, you crazy?". The answer is no, i poke around country roads idling in 4th gear looking at deer and cows. I can't afford race engines haha. But i absolutely admire the brain power here and all the nice helpful peeps.
Gerard Posted February 2, 2009 Posted February 2, 2009 I unclipped the face of the heater, washed out the heater's radiator (urgh), and re-clipped the washer bottle that had fallen off. Really passion stirring stuff. Oh, and dribbled all over newton commercials website. Hopefully my parts will arrive before I'm 40
lordleonusa Posted February 9, 2009 Posted February 9, 2009 I only get Sundays off work, and my wife went out to visit her friend ;) I just fitted my new MSD HVC-II Coil, (PN 8253), on a custom made alloy mounting plate/heat shield that I knocked up out of a piece of an old Cessna Wing...(that bit I did on weekday evenings indoors). Hope I can get some more aircraft alloy, it's high grade. Tested, working perfectly. Couldn't take a photo yet, my wife took the camera!!! Léon Here's the piccy of it fitted. L
Nick B. Posted February 9, 2009 Posted February 9, 2009 Hi Leon Funny you have mounted such a coul. Just yesterday we held a clubmeeting on coils. We did a comparison between a unipart standard coil, a Lucas sportscoil and a modern coil such as the one you have on your car now. Results were clear - the modern coil drew the longest and warmest spark. Second came the infamous sportscoil, and lastr were the standard coil. We opened the coils up and looked for differences. The standard coil had a longer ironcore, but less windings. Both were oilcooled. The modern coil wasn't cooled. Modern coils were reported to wear out ignition if they were not fitted with a resistor. I took some pics - will get them uploaded later on Should have tested the Ford coilpack thats being used with Megajolt, but forgot to bring the pack (doh) Anyway - significantly better coul you have mounted - but you probably allready know that :-) Cheers Nick
lordleonusa Posted February 10, 2009 Posted February 10, 2009 The MSD Coil I fitted has almost no primary or secondary resistance when compared with canister style oil filled coils, because it is designed specifically with for MSD Digital 6 Plus Capacitive Discharge system. It does indeed have a very long spark duration, which should help with the natural tendency of Weber sidedraught carbs to over-fuel around town unless the fuel pressure is turned way down, and then back up again on the interstate. my new MSD PN: 8253 Coil Coil Specs Turns ratio: 100:1 Primary resistance: 0.16 OHMs Secondary resistance: 630 OHMs Inductance: 3.5 mH Maximum voltage: 44,000 Volts Peak current: 450 mA Spark duration: 450 uS Weight: 3.75 lbs c/w my old MSD PN: 8202 Coil (Blaster 2) Coil Specs Turns ratio: 100:1 Primary resistance: 0.7 OHMs Secondary resistance: 4.5K OHMs Inductance: 8 mH Maximum voltage: 45,000 Volts Peak current: 140 mA Spark duration: 350 uS Weight: N/A L
DaveNotSoSideways Posted February 12, 2009 Posted February 12, 2009 Got some wadding, wool and can complete my silencer now!
PeteClan Posted February 12, 2009 Posted February 12, 2009 Having seen all the postings of your Triumphs I though I'd put up some pictures of my recently completed 1120cc Imp engine to go in the new race Clan I'm building for this season. Will be instaling it in my existing car this coming week for testing purposes. Pete Richards
DaveNotSoSideways Posted February 12, 2009 Posted February 12, 2009 Very nice Pete. Like the gimbal belts! Low friction and don't fly off!
PeteClan Posted February 12, 2009 Posted February 12, 2009 Thanks Dave. Belts are best solution for high reving engine - 9000+ rpm. Another picture showing belts and trigger wheel and pickup. Pete Richards
DaveNotSoSideways Posted February 12, 2009 Posted February 12, 2009 Neat job! Nice underdriven Denso Alternator too. You are using 40mm carbs on this?
PeteClan Posted February 12, 2009 Posted February 12, 2009 Remember the engine is fitted tilted to the right so the alternator is above. Whilst initially for trial purposes the engine will be run with a set of Weber 40's the idea is to fit the Dellorto 45's I have already fitted to a manifold. This setup has proved successful in the past. Pete Richards
sorbs Posted February 13, 2009 Posted February 13, 2009 Finally! A new rear driveshaft. The bearings in the old one were worn and had lots of play. No noise though. I fitted a recon hub to the other side a few weeks ago as it was knackered too but it was only £15 more for the whole driveshaft so I took the easy option this time.
sorbs Posted February 14, 2009 Posted February 14, 2009 I adjusted the Vectra's handbrake this morning. The fun just never stops here!
JamesR Posted February 15, 2009 Posted February 15, 2009 cut, file, clamp, weld, blow holes, weld elaborately, grind, weld, cut, err.. did some fibreglassing, made adjustments with a hammer. (tounge)
lordleonusa Posted February 16, 2009 Posted February 16, 2009 Cleaned oil temperature gauge sensor aluminium HOUSING in acetone, then hot water before drying, came up like new. Polished Canton Racing Products aluminium oil catch tank to make ready for installation to replace extant red plastic jobby. The devil is in the detail. L
Nick B. Posted February 20, 2009 Posted February 20, 2009 Tried to wiggle the gearbox back in place. Another very good reason to buy an alloy bellhousing. After announcing (at this point) that I hated my life - it took another hour and voila - gearbox back in place and all bolted up :-) Cheers Nick
JohnD Posted February 20, 2009 Posted February 20, 2009 Nick, Next time, take out the central stud from the top of the engine block's rear face and replace it with a long stud/bolt-with head-cut-off/threaded rod. Now you can engage the top hole of the bell from much further back and just slide in. Works every time for me! John
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