AJ.Lintern Posted January 7, 2009 Posted January 7, 2009 Not touched my car since going to the meet in early December :X
Jony Posted January 7, 2009 Posted January 7, 2009 well i got the dolly started up today, started straight up! good car! had to play with the lectrics to get a light working and replace a head lamp bad car! and also had to retighten the clutch to slave connector as it had come loose and leaked bad car! just gotta do a couple more bits and its off for its mot friday at 2pm then hopefully ready for a viewing and hopefully for a new home!
JMH Posted January 7, 2009 Posted January 7, 2009 NOTHING! Its wintertime - so I normally sleep as much as possible. Wake me up when spring comes 8)
DaveNotSoSideways Posted January 26, 2009 Posted January 26, 2009 Fitted my gearbox tunnel/dash. Went to "see if it would fire up"...for a laugh like, with a 12 " exhaust. Dunno what the problem is. Starter is a REALLY slow, struggling to turn the engine. Same with the coils disconnected, all electrics disconnected bar the starter wire. Now I tried jumping the starter directly from a battery (2 feet away) with the earth to the engine...Still no joy. The engine can easily be rotated by hand on the cambelt/alternator (bar when it hits peak compression)...The engine spins fast on the starter with no plugs in, stick the plugs in and it slows to a stop...battery seems to die really quickly... Tried two batteries, same on both, both battery start my Alfa. The wiring is no different from with the old engine. I tried 3 earth leads on the engine: clamped on, the normal wiring, jumping it direct as I said. No joy. Come to conclusion the starter is duff. I get some semi combusted fuel aroma through the exhaust, I got sparks, compression, fuel, I just haven't got the speed on the starter to get the engine to fire. Frustrating as that starter was the ONLY big object I brought new! £136...Cant find the receipt and it was over 12months ago, I will badger Milwood Motor Company for a replacement to try. Really it can't be anything else. I remember before I tested it with the plugs in and no cams on, seemed to work then...
DaveNotSoSideways Posted January 27, 2009 Posted January 27, 2009 Stripped down the starter looked at it, stuck it back on, still crap. Jumped it using two batteries, I got the engine to "fart"...ie it ran for about 0.5seconds before the batteries died, I had used the peak power from them checking the starter, now on recharge! I'll try it with the BMW battery tomorrow maybe. Thats BIG. Feels like the engine has plenty of compression I got a nice face full of fuel/air mixture when jumping the starter (no leads on plugs) with no exhaust manifold on...Nice clear puffs of mixture out the exhaust.
Jony Posted January 27, 2009 Posted January 27, 2009 i can have a see if we got some starters at work mate? or maybe have a word with the boss see what he makes of it?
Gerard Posted January 27, 2009 Posted January 27, 2009 I have sat and waited, waited and waited for parts to arrive. I'm still waiting.
DaveNotSoSideways Posted January 27, 2009 Posted January 27, 2009 Have a look Jony, it's a caterham install starter for K-series I need. I have had it running as you know, but only via jumping it with two batteries. I am used to Denso starters, this thing is shit!
GT6Steve Posted January 28, 2009 Posted January 28, 2009 I'm in full waterpump mode at the moment. I have to change the pump for the next race as it seems to be cavitating at the sustained high RPMs. I've turned up a 40 tooth pulley AND ordered two new stock waterpumps for spares. Regarding the alloy water pump pulleys we've been talking about recently...So far, I say don't! The first one I paid dearly for was a mirror image of the appropriate curves. Useless. They soon discovered their error and corrected it but I was screwed with this piece of CAD/CAM jewelry. The second one rotates the right way but still looks like a junior machinist test, with a low grade for it. You can see in the piccy how crude it is. Hence I've not yet tested it. I'm pursuing proper industrial impellors in the long term and will fit the stock impellor at reduced speed in the short term. Beyond that, the car is ready. I cleaned the monster K&N filter last week knocking out tons of small stones and rubber. Glad I've got it! Gotta reset/check the valves. Can't think of much more now beyond a wash. I'm a bit superstitious about polishing but if the race weekend is going well I might be tempted. Steve
Royboy66 Posted January 28, 2009 Author Posted January 28, 2009 steve, cant see pic! Ive got a spare stock w.pump that im thinking of taking to some local machine shops re improve impellor design. Any thoughts on shapes/No of blades etc? Roy (on my phone ,nightshifts this week! )
lordleonusa Posted January 28, 2009 Posted January 28, 2009 Here is my alloy water pump with alloy pulley and cast iron impeller. It came from Steve Phillips. L
GT6Steve Posted January 28, 2009 Posted January 28, 2009 That, Leon, is a pulley I would trust. The one I'm playing with is similar but not as deep. Who is Steve Phillips and does he have anymore? BTW, Have you ever measured water pressure at the block drain plug with that pulley? Later date edit...That impellor is backwards and will be a problem at higher RPM's. Direction of rotation will have the inner edge closer to center than the outer so as to "Lift" the water rather than "cup"it.
GT Posted January 28, 2009 Posted January 28, 2009 That looks suspiciously like a modified impellor from a dolomite or Stag. I wonder why no-one else thought of a £10 mod to that pump. old 6 vane Stag pumps are 2 a penny....not £220! There's even a 12 vane one!
GT Posted January 28, 2009 Posted January 28, 2009 the thing's even available as new seperately Part Number 149483 Description IMPELLOR 6V. EARLY Retail Price £8.07 inc. VAT (£7.02 exc. VAT)
Nick Jones Posted January 28, 2009 Posted January 28, 2009 I'm in full waterpump mode at the moment. I have to change the pump for the next race as it seems to be cavitating at the sustained high RPMs. I've turned up a 40 tooth pulley AND ordered two new stock waterpumps for spares. Steve Running the pump slower will likely help (we've discussed this before). Can you run a higher pressure cap? This won't help with turbulence due to crude impellor design but should help cavitation.... I don't know very much about centrifugals unfortunately, I'm a PD pump man Nick
GT6Steve Posted January 29, 2009 Posted January 29, 2009 The new pulley is built and will go from 30 tooth to 40 tooth, a suitable reduction in pump speed I think. Cap is a 25 pound Stant Racing cap. I don't think I'll top that. Gareth, where did that catalog page come from? Please don't say Rimmers > Does anyone know the diameter of that impellor for the Stag? I'll happily order a couple if they're readily available. Thanx for that.
Royboy66 Posted January 29, 2009 Author Posted January 29, 2009 steve, Im going to pop into Td fittchets 2mrw(2mins from me),see if they can show me some Wpumps, will take a tape measure
GT6Steve Posted January 29, 2009 Posted January 29, 2009 Thank You Amigo! I'd be grateful. I can use up to 8 cm as is and can do most any turning to make it work. That would be a nice solution, I like the look of Leons. Pulling WP's at the breakers got old in a HURRY. ;D
Royboy66 Posted January 29, 2009 Author Posted January 29, 2009 ok, i'll take my verniers! That shot of impellor from GT Does look like its from Rimmers catalogue! Its either dolomite or stag, Fittchets should have both in stock to compare/measure! I think Leons Engine must be as shiny on the inside as the outside!!
GT6Steve Posted January 29, 2009 Posted January 29, 2009 ok, i'll take my verniers! That shot of impellor from GT Does look like its from Rimmers catalogue! Its either dolomite or stag, Fittchets should have both in stock to compare/measure! I think Leons Engine must be as shiny on the inside as the outside!! Take the piccy with ya I'd buy a complete waterpump if need be cuz the impellor seems to be NSS? Thanx again...
lordleonusa Posted January 29, 2009 Posted January 29, 2009 Take the piccy with ya I'd buy a complete waterpump if need be cuz the impellor seems to be NSS? Thanx again... Here is a side shot of my alloy parts, I seem to remember that the water pump has a modern 'carbon/graphite?' seal in it...I have a spare somewhere, just in case. L
GT Posted January 31, 2009 Posted January 31, 2009 If I'm right about the source I wouldn't even buy new, any Stag/TR7 specialist is gonna have loads. Try S & S (TR8 specialists) they have lots of old rubbish engines
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