Nick's US-spec GT6

[GT6 Nick]

5 hours ago, Nick Jones said:

Those speaker cabinets look superb! What drivers are those? Not Lowther I’m guessing!

They're Dayton Audio full-range 6.5". They have a clear midrange and treble that the cabinets really bring out. Not much bass, but Dayton's 7" subwoofer will fill in the bottom end nicely.

The amplifier was basically a follow-up to the valve amplifier I built for the workshop. It's a bit addictive though - I enjoyed both the electronics and woodwork parts of this build so much that I'm pondering a 300B amplifier and speakers for the living room. If/when I do, I'll post that in the 'other hobbies' section.

[Nick Jones]

Thanks for that. Look forward to the next project!

Have the Queensland floods been interfering with your work? Area affected is staggering - global sea level is surely reduced due to all this water holidaying in Oz!

[Spit131]

Hopefully you are not frustrated with a partners ban on using your system due to direct neighbours . I acquired a pair of Tannoy i8s and a Linn Seismic bass unit linked to a Cambridge CxA81 amp about 18 months ago but am still waiting to use it !

Our place is on the market at a low price but things seem pretty dead here atm despite the sunshine . 

[aoie]

I was looking through some of your earlier posts and I saw and read a couple of things I'm very interested in, hoping you could share some more information.

1: A picture of your Water pump looks to be an earlier serviceable type with interchangeable pully. Could you please tell me about it. It's my understanding that early MK1-2 GT6 water pumps may work on my spitfire.

2: You added a Camshaft sensor, really interested in what you did!

[GT6 Nick]

My water pump is an alloy body pump from Canley Classics. The pulley is removable, presumably so that one pump body can fit multiple cars.

The camshaft sensor is from Holley. It’s a Hall sensor reading off a small magnet in the head of a bolt screwed into the camshaft sprocket. Lots of Loctite was employed to keep that little bolt from coming out. The Hall sensor is screwed into a nut welded over a hole in the timing cover.