oviwan Posted January 22, 2009 Posted January 22, 2009 hi all, listening a while to this amazing forum and could not stop myself to send my first post today. but first things first: i'm harry from germany, coming from somwhere around cologne. finished my tr6 project in '04 (owned since '95) but there's a long way to improve the car or to get a better knwoledge of some important details and - a much better handling! there are not so many places to get the right and detailed informations when you go down to nuts and bolts. guess this here is the right place! some infos of my car: http://www.tr-freun.de/modules.php?name=tr-galerie&op=showcar&car_id=152 cheers! harry
DaveNotSoSideways Posted January 22, 2009 Posted January 22, 2009 Hallo Harry! Nice TR6! I like the seats and the "conrod protectors"! Thanks for the pictures! Welcome.
Royboy66 Posted January 22, 2009 Posted January 22, 2009 welcome along Harry! Great pics! only wish i'd paid attention in German classes! :B Roy 8)
oviwan Posted January 26, 2009 Author Posted January 26, 2009 hi, was confused for a short while cause there are more amazing pictures here in forum. until i checked my own forum pictures... but there is a background. in my home-forum, we have shared over a long time bad jokes, funny pictures and stories etc. and we thought that the most of the users share our strange humor, but they didn't. they said we are superficial, sexist and unethical. so we decided to add in future only high quality content to the site about cultural and natural issues or our architectural heritage, increasing the variety of provided information. related to this, we started with a nice view of the famous 'Pont Neuf' in toulouse. construction started in the 16. century and last up to the 17. century. the bridge was inaugurated on 19. oct. 1659 by king louis XIV. picture: http://www.tr-freun.de/images/tr-galerie_loaded/152-2901.jpg anyway, i have translated the technical data of my car on the given link above. hope you're able to understand my humble english. cheers, harry (found the pont neuf story somwhere on the net....have you seen the boat? ;D)
DaveNotSoSideways Posted January 26, 2009 Posted January 26, 2009 hi, we thought that the most of the users share our strange humor, but they didn't. they said we are superficial, sexist and unethical. You'll have no problem here, we welcome superficial, sexist and unethical people ;D
Gerard Posted January 26, 2009 Posted January 26, 2009 That's the best picture of the Pont Neuf I've ever seen. I like the autumn feel. I'm sure it'd sell well as a postcard.
Martin Posted January 26, 2009 Posted January 26, 2009 Hi Harry, I´m as well new in this forum, and I have to say it helped already a lot. I´m located a bit south from Cologne wit the wife´s Spit 1500 and my GT6 MK II. Regards and vielleicht sieht man sich mal Gruß Martin
Royboy66 Posted January 26, 2009 Posted January 26, 2009 Welcome martin! very nice looking pic o your mk2! any more info? Roy 8)
GT6Steve Posted January 27, 2009 Posted January 27, 2009 That's the best picture of the Pont Neuf I've ever seen. I like the autumn feel. I'm sure it'd sell well as a postcard. Oddly, I didn't even see the leaves. Looked very Spring like to me....
starman Posted January 27, 2009 Posted January 27, 2009 we started with a nice view of the famous 'Pont Neuf' in toulouse.... ;D) Sweet ride! Wilkommen! BTW, what bridge? I didn't notice a bridge? ;D
JohnD Posted February 8, 2009 Posted February 8, 2009 Harry, Returning to your engine preparation, and the "conrod protectors" on your webpage. I see in another pic that they are centering discs, used to balance the conrods. I'm doing the same, and after grinding and linishing my rods I have numbers for the total, small and big end weights of all my rods, . The small ends are well matched, +/- 2gms The total weights are well matched, +/- 1 gm, except for one, -4gms. I could correct that, but; The big ends fall into two groups, heavy and light, +/- 2gm in each group, with the groups 20gms apart! I can't understand how this can be! A heavy big end, on a heavy conrod, I know where to remove more metal. But if I grind more off these heavy big ends, then I will have a set with three heavy and three light in total weight. The rods I'm using are like yours, the type with a hole bored through to relieve the bigend bolt. If I lighten the heavy bigends, then drill out the hole in the other three to remove metal from the centre of the rod, I could have a matched set of conrods. Will that work? Or is there another way? How did you weigh your rods, and how well matched are they? Anyone else's advice will be welcome! John
DaveNotSoSideways Posted February 8, 2009 Posted February 8, 2009 Send them to midland balancing / V8 developments. 20mins job, all within 0.1grams, at both ends and overall, I watched him do it. Engine was super smooth! The measuring rig needs roller bearings on it, lubed up, 0.1gram repeats when removed and added again.
JohnD Posted February 9, 2009 Posted February 9, 2009 Thanks, dave, but I like to do things myself! I'm sure that my scales (or rather 'er indoors' scales) are part of the problem and they only claim to wight to 1gm. Mere inaccuracy can be countered by statictics! A large number of measurements, take the mean. That reveals the situation above. But I fear that the scales 'creep' so that the same thing weighed later can apper to have a different mass. Compounded by my crude test rig. A home made knife edge and centering blanks for the ends. Harry's blanks are the pinnacle of engineering expertise ( and they are) in comparision. Lacking a lathe, I can't make any like them. Oh, dear, it looks as if I've talked myself into a visit to Midland Balancing! If I do, at what stage in the process? After lightening and smoothing, before polishing and shotting? John
DaveNotSoSideways Posted February 9, 2009 Posted February 9, 2009 Its very hard John Yes you need a set of top quality scales, heavy ones made of metal, like the ones in 70's school science lessons etc. I made a range of "rigs" to try and do this job involving bearings, chain, cogs. I failed at every attempt, and seeing Midland Balancing's rig I can see why...you cannot have ANY friction between the holding device and the big or little end opening...or the repeatability goes to pot. I took one look at Bill's rig and went "ahhhhhhhhhhhhh". He has a round centre that slips inside the big end opening, a bit like harrys, this round centre piece has 6 small roller bearings protruding out the outer edge which can be adjusted in and out to adjust to larger or smaller openings, these run on the big-end opening, you oil the big-end opening and insert this device, you adjust it so the bearings just contact the opening and you have a perfect friction free contact and repeatability. The little end is supported on "stilt" so it's level with the hanging big-end. You cannot have any ridges and the rods must be "round" and not oval or the caps misaligned. The whole arrangement is "one piece" and so cannot move. Ensuring that you can remove the rod, refit it and get the same figure. You can buy these "rigs" for about £1000.
DaveNotSoSideways Posted February 9, 2009 Posted February 9, 2009 Send the rods there after you have lightened/polished them and completed all work, but before you peen them. I imagine they could peen them there, peening won't effect anything, but the balancing will involve some grinding/sanding/polishing, so peening is the very last job after all other work. Also send the bolts and get them matched to within 0.1grams. MAKE SURE you leave some extra material on the "bridges" on the big-end caps, tuning manuals say remove 25-30% of these bridges, but to balance up "bad" rods you need a little extra here. Same for the little-end. If one rod is way out ~ 3-4grams is ALOT of material to find on rod thats been aggressively lightened! You don't want to weaken them. I'd leave the bridges alone or maybe 10% off them? and leave the "oil" tower on the big-end, that gives him something to grind off!
DaveNotSoSideways Posted February 9, 2009 Posted February 9, 2009 http://www.rover-v8.com/ Its JE developments that Bill shares a place with. Postal address: J.E.Developments, Claybrooke Mill, Frolesworth Lane, Claybrooke Magna. Nr. Lutterworth. LE17 5DB 01455 202 909 Ask for Bill the Balancer, he doesn't promote himself enough.
JohnD Posted February 10, 2009 Posted February 10, 2009 Thanks for all that information, dave, I feared as much after struggling with my set-up. I'm confident about the two sets of three big ends that are matched together, but so seperated in their weight. Statisticly, they are like that. I can say so, because I've weighed them so many times, and randon scatter of measurement gives good confidnece interval that they are so. Think I'll start again with another set, weigh them first to see if they are in groups like this, as 20gms will be a lot to remove once I've done the grinding and polishing. John
spitNL Posted February 10, 2009 Posted February 10, 2009 Why don't you hang the conrod on strings on both ends? That way you don't have to worry about friction. Just a thought.
oviwan Posted February 13, 2009 Author Posted February 13, 2009 Harry's blanks are the pinnacle of engineering expertise ( and they are) in comparision. uuhh, ohh thx! was my first set i made in 2001, never did it before. grinded away what seemed to be useless, ~48gr each. then balanced on a micro scale, as shown above, which is used for mixing car paints in a friends workshop. kitchen scale is not my favorite as you can't realy repeat the results. polishing was the final step for my first engine. the where good balanced in stock cond., no big deal to bring them to +/-0.2gr. finished the second rod to 50% in rough grind, i promised myself never to do this again. but once you have started, you have to finish it. the covers were simply used for shotpeening only, to protect the bearing surfaces... for my second rebuilt, i needed special small end bushes to fit mazda e5 pistons and shotpeening was available for small cash. therefore i decided to modify them again. they have been checked in twist & bend before they got shot, but no more balancing. changed to cosworth bolts. what i have missed was to adjust the bore to bore distance to the same dim. that would have been easy for our self fabricated small end bushes. now zero deck clearance was adjusted by the pistons. next set will be better :B cheers, harry
JohnD Posted February 13, 2009 Posted February 13, 2009 spitNL, Are the 'strings' essential? I would have thought that as long as each rod was set up on the scales and pivot with the same distance between them, then that would be right. My centering plug was an alloy disc, crimped around the enge like a crown bottle cap to sit in the end. Inserted with the same orientation each time, so that the knfe edge sat on the same point, and with the edge height set so the beam was horizontal. The geometry is right, but the scales aren't! Buying a scales that will accurately weigh to 1gram would be uneconomic unless I build engines every week. Though...... I did an Ebay search - there are scales available that will weigh up to 500gms at an accuracy of 0.1gm. Lots of them. All 'pocket scales'. I wondered why, until I saw that several have the actual scale table mirrored. Now if I used one of those for, er, business, perhaps I won't be so strapped for car cash. John
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