GT6/Spit Body mounting kit

[Bignick]

Hi all

 

I've just bought the rimmer bros Rear Shock Absorber Conversion Brackets (http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-RG1306) and was trying to fit them in accordance with the instruction leaflet.  I did as requested, removed the to rear body mounting bolts (and loosened some of the ones in front to allow the shell to be jacked up at the rear)  Then I took note of the spacers that were fitted only to find the gash b'stard that had the car before me hadn't fitted any bloody mounting spacers.  I don't know why I'm surprised to be honest, this is just the latest in a long list of short cuts (sometimes downright dangerous) that I have unearthed.  I'm almost glad in a way because this is a good excuse to lift off the shell and have a good check around just to make sure I'm not renovating a future widow maker!  I suppose it will make fitting the shock kit and the fuel hoses for the EFi convesion a little easier as well!

 

Anyway, I've bought a body fitting kit http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270450129411&ssPageName=ADME:X:AAQ:GB:1123#ht_500wt_1182 and am wondering the about the best positions for the various spacers.  Anyone got any info?  I can remember asking the question when I did my last spitfire but that was about 7 years ago now so the memory has faded somewhat!

 

Anyone got any tips for the shock kit while I'm at it?

 

TIA

 

Nick

[Buster]

There should be one rubber body mounting pad where each bolt goes through. The perfect car will have no metal spacers as it will align perfectly without. In the real world they're fitted on an as-required basis, to take up gaps where the body and chassis won't meet.

[SteveA]

On mine I had and re-fitted them, using four of the metal spacers, two at the back (on to the rear of the chassis) and the other two on the inner positions of the front outrigger (toe board) to account for the strengthening bracket which should be on the outer mounting point. Then I used the rubber spacers on all the other points.

[JMH]

Original you had an alu spacer on the front outrigger each side (engine side, no one on the floor side) and an alu spacer on the damper mount at the rear. No rubber spacers used on any of the early "round tail" I have worked on. BUT they were used as the final alignment of the door gaps - so..... used as required ...  :K)

 

You can stop some of the noice using rubberspacers.

 

I dont.  8)

[Buster]

No rubber spacers used on any of the early "round tail" I have worked on. BUT they were used as the final alignment of the door gaps - so..... used as required ...  

 

Rubber pads aren't suitable for adjusting gaps. They compress as bolts are tightened, having pads in some areas and not in others would upset alignments as mounting bolts are tensioned. This is not how it was done at the factory, a single pad was at each mounting point, with solid spacers being used to adjust alignments.

[JMH]

Yes, agree, had the aluspacers in my mind, not the rubber ones.

[bearmtnmartin]

just to clarify, because I was wondering about those as well. My GT6 had the steel ? shims on most but not all mounting points. So are they not needed at all except at points where  the body doesn't meet the frame?

[Buster]

just to clarify, because I was wondering about those as well. My GT6 had the steel ? shims on most but not all mounting points. So are they not needed at all except at points where  the body doesn't meet the frame?

 

That's pretty much the way it goes. Factory produced the shims in different thicknesses, most are alloy with a slot so they can be inserted without complete removal of the bolt. Steel ones turn up occasionally, seemibngly as original parts. These are no more than thick washers, the larger ones are always aluminium, or light alloy.